1990 prelude upgrade help

[ovalracer44]

Hello all. I have a 1990 prelude 4ws that I have built for circle track racing. Our rules specify that the car must be all stock. I am looking for any tricks that I can do computer wise or cam wise that I can do to get more ponies out this car. Just to let you know it is a car that is supposed to have the 2.05, but it was blown up and I was not able to locate a good 2.05 so I got a JDM b20a and put it in swapping the intake over. The car is a rocket ship in stock form and want any more advantage I can get my hands on.

By all stock they have to be able to look at the car and not be able to tell it was dickered with. Like no headers, aftermarket air filters and such.

Thanks in advance

 

[DESPAIN]

you can get a chipped ecu and have it tuned.....you might beable to get 10-20hp with that and it will look stock. do a cat delete might help also.

 

[ovalracer44]

I have taken the cat off.

Any recommendation on a reputable place to get a chipped ECU from? Its hard to cut through the clutter on the internet with all the false claims.

 

[DESPAIN]

i use hondata. imo they are the best..... they are more expensive than most but to me its worth the money. hondata s300 is the best one but i think the hondata s100 would work great for your set up.

 

[ovalracer44]

I just visited the hondata website. Is the system plug and play? Money is not a concern so if the s300 is the best option That is the one I would rather use.

Does anyone make good camshafts that are better than stock that you would recommend.

I appreciate your advice.

 

[ovalracer44]

I also have a question about the transmissions. I found a thread on here that listed transmission ratios. I see final drive listed. Is that the ring and pinion ratio? Im not too well versed on FWD language.

I raced RWD cars for years and we called final drive the trans gear ratio multiplied by the rear gear ratio. I.E. a 2nd gear ratio of 2.14 and a rear gear ratio of 3.08 yields a final drive ratio of 6.59

 

[78civic]

You can shave the head and take the cam gears to a GOOD machine shop and have them broach in new key-ways that can be hid under the cam bolt washer.
--Ask them to broach in a 2deg and 4deg advance in the intake and 2-4 ret in the exhaust gear. THat way you can add more duration to the stock lobes. You can play with the lash too.
--Of course port and polish if allowed.
--Can you run a header?
--Bassett wheels make 14" rims up to 8" wide I remember. That will give you a little better ratio and still keep the stock calipers.
--Try to disconect the little vacume valve that opens up the secondary butterflies in the intake and see if that gives you a little more top end quicker (it may rob some lower end though)
--Get your throttle body bored out.
--Look up "gude performance" for a complete head set.. Kinda pricy but if your rules will let you make ECU changes..?
--Use a 2" hole saw and start popping holes all over to cut out weight (staying away from main structural supports) They are a heavy car considering, but the B20a5 or B21 has pretty decent torque.
--Take out all the "powered" otpions to save weight.

I've had 4. Not bad, but limited in aftermarket.

E

 

[buttered corn]

not sure about your car specifically, but if your intake has a box, you can mod the box and it'll give a bit more sound/power.

 

[ovalracer44]

You can shave the head and take the cam gears to a GOOD machine shop and have them broach in new key-ways that can be hid under the cam bolt washer.


--Ask them to broach in a 2deg and 4deg advance in the intake and 2-4 ret in the exhaust gear. THat way you can add more duration to the stock lobes. You can play with the lash too.

We have no good machine shops around here unfortunately

Of course port and polish if allowed.

No one ever checks to see if its done, but Id hate to be the first one caught doing it.

--Can you run a header?

No headers allowed. I do have the JDM manifold still on with the EGR blocked off and made a block off on the intake for the EGR.

--Bassett wheels make 14" rims up to 8" wide I remember. That will give you a little better ratio and still keep the stock calipers.

Has to be stock wheels. I have multiple tires mounted up on 14 inch wheels to adjust ratio.

--Try to disconect the little vacume valve that opens up the secondary butterflies in the intake and see if that gives you a little more top end quicker (it may rob some lower end though)

Since it was originally a B21 car, I had to put the B21 intake on the B20a for the electronics and vacuum lines to be the same. The B21 does not have the secondary butterfly valves. The throttle body seems to be larger than the B20.

--Get your throttle body bored out.[/quote]
little too risky.

--Look up "gude performance" for a complete head set.. Kinda pricy but if your rules will let you make ECU changes..?

The ECu changes are not "technically' legal, but the tech officials are not smart enough to prove it. They are still stuck in the carbureted era.

--Use a 2" hole saw and start popping holes all over to cut out weight (staying away from main structural supports) They are a heavy car considering, but the B20a5 or B21 has pretty decent torque.

I have hit everything that the tech inspectors wont complain about with the plasma cutter.

--Take out all the "powered" otpions to save weight.

Its all gone. Dash and all. The doors are basically skins. This alone saved 150 lbs. With a 6 point cage with 4 door bars in driver side and 3 in passenger side, this car with me in it weighs 2280 lbs now down from a weight before I started gutting of 2690 without me in it.

I've had 4. Not bad, but limited in aftermarket.

If I can ever find another 4th gen lude they are in trouble. I want the H22