The_MATRIX
Junior Member
Problem With My 1994 Honda Civic EX Vtec D16Z6
My car won't start, the engine cranks over but the engine won't start.
The last thing I did was drive the car home and park it, it wasn't overheating or anything just my everyday drive. Then I got up to leave to go to work and the car kinda started and then spluttered and died, after that it wouldn't start again and turned over very fast (almost like it has no compression) That was 2 months ago.
I checked that I have fuel and that the relay didn't die;
1.) I have fuel pressure at the filter
I checked top dead center and the rotor points to CYL 1 on the Distributor Cap
2.) Timing Belt Isn't Broken / Didn't skip a tooth (right?)
I Then Checked For Spark;
3.) NO SPARK
Being as there was no spark I bought an MSD External Coil Distributor cap (tec distributor), I removed the stock ignition coil and installed an MSD Blaster 2 Coil (hooked up black/yellow wire (from inside dist) and blue wire to the pos/neg terminals on the coil, pust it back together and no spark. The Black/yellow wire is hot going in to the positive end of the coil and the blue wire (going to negative) is hot when the key is in the on position, car still won't start.
So now I'm not sure my blaster coil is good and thinking possibly my ICM (ignition control module) in the distributor could be bad I went and bought a new distributor.
Installed New Distributor (not 180 off, its installed right);
Car Still Won't Start / No Spark
Now when the key is in the on position only the Black/Yellow wire going to the distributor is hot and the blue wire going into the distributor is cold.
I checked the main (underhood) fuse box and all the big fuses/relays appear to be fine so why won't my car start? And why does it turn over so quickly now? I pulled a spark plug and had someone put their hand over the hole and it had compression but I don't have a gauge to test actual compression.
New Distributor / New OEM Ignition Coil / New ICM / New Plugs / New Wires / New Cap & Rotor / Has Fuel Pressure at Filter / Car Has 3 Gallons of fresh gas / Timing Belt and Water pump replaced 8k miles ago
If you can help me out or have had a similar problem I would really appreciate the help, I don't have money to take it to a shop
My car won't start, the engine cranks over but the engine won't start.
The last thing I did was drive the car home and park it, it wasn't overheating or anything just my everyday drive. Then I got up to leave to go to work and the car kinda started and then spluttered and died, after that it wouldn't start again and turned over very fast (almost like it has no compression) That was 2 months ago.
I checked that I have fuel and that the relay didn't die;
1.) I have fuel pressure at the filter
I checked top dead center and the rotor points to CYL 1 on the Distributor Cap
2.) Timing Belt Isn't Broken / Didn't skip a tooth (right?)
I Then Checked For Spark;
3.) NO SPARK
Being as there was no spark I bought an MSD External Coil Distributor cap (tec distributor), I removed the stock ignition coil and installed an MSD Blaster 2 Coil (hooked up black/yellow wire (from inside dist) and blue wire to the pos/neg terminals on the coil, pust it back together and no spark. The Black/yellow wire is hot going in to the positive end of the coil and the blue wire (going to negative) is hot when the key is in the on position, car still won't start.
So now I'm not sure my blaster coil is good and thinking possibly my ICM (ignition control module) in the distributor could be bad I went and bought a new distributor.
Installed New Distributor (not 180 off, its installed right);
Car Still Won't Start / No Spark
Now when the key is in the on position only the Black/Yellow wire going to the distributor is hot and the blue wire going into the distributor is cold.
I checked the main (underhood) fuse box and all the big fuses/relays appear to be fine so why won't my car start? And why does it turn over so quickly now? I pulled a spark plug and had someone put their hand over the hole and it had compression but I don't have a gauge to test actual compression.
New Distributor / New OEM Ignition Coil / New ICM / New Plugs / New Wires / New Cap & Rotor / Has Fuel Pressure at Filter / Car Has 3 Gallons of fresh gas / Timing Belt and Water pump replaced 8k miles ago
If you can help me out or have had a similar problem I would really appreciate the help, I don't have money to take it to a shop
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