They do indeed have break in oil. I have used it and I love it along with all of the products that they sell. From a dollar per mile stand point you cant beat Amsoil oils and filters.
'89 240sx
- Thread starter nofxSOHCcrx
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They do indeed have break in oil. I have used it and I love it along with all of the products that they sell. From a dollar per mile stand point you cant beat Amsoil oils and filters.
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Worked on the engine today. Was able to get a few things done finally. Put the Oil pan back on, the Apexi HG, the ARP head studs, and the new rear main seal.
Oil pan on, HG in place, and studs threaded in.
Putting the nuts on the studs was a pain in the ass. There is no room for fingers on the SR20 heads. Ended up using my magnet stick to hold on twist on the first few threads.
Got the head on, and torqued down. Put the ARP gunk on the threads then 3 steps, 30-60-90, just like the ARP paper said to do.
On the next day off, I'll start the cam install, and the rest of the stuff.
I did decide to go with Royal Purple because I forgot I had already purchased 6 quarts of 10-30. So I ordered 6 quarts of RP break in oil, the Mahle/Clevite oil filter, a K&N oil filter, all my freeze plugs, all my belts, chain tensioner gasket, OEM water pump, and OEM thermostat, and the OEM IACV gasket.
Should be here Monday and Tuesday, Hopefully I have Tuesday or Wednesday off.
Oil pan on, HG in place, and studs threaded in.
Putting the nuts on the studs was a pain in the ass. There is no room for fingers on the SR20 heads. Ended up using my magnet stick to hold on twist on the first few threads.
Got the head on, and torqued down. Put the ARP gunk on the threads then 3 steps, 30-60-90, just like the ARP paper said to do.
On the next day off, I'll start the cam install, and the rest of the stuff.
I did decide to go with Royal Purple because I forgot I had already purchased 6 quarts of 10-30. So I ordered 6 quarts of RP break in oil, the Mahle/Clevite oil filter, a K&N oil filter, all my freeze plugs, all my belts, chain tensioner gasket, OEM water pump, and OEM thermostat, and the OEM IACV gasket.
Should be here Monday and Tuesday, Hopefully I have Tuesday or Wednesday off.
in the past when i have had issues with nuts like that i would put a bit of assembly lube on the outside of the nut and then stick it into the socket.
92stoccord
Big Member
His solution seems like it might have been a better choice for those who are afraid of cross threading the nut.
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
Looks like a cool build. 
A friend of mine is in the process of getting his RB25 240 going.
I usually just smash em on with the impact, cross threads is better than no threads I always say.
A friend of mine is in the process of getting his RB25 240 going.I usually just smash em on with the impact, cross threads is better than no threads I always say.
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Looks like a cool build.
I usually just smash em on with the impact, cross threads is better than no threads I always say.
Haha.
I've heard that the RB25 is not a good platform. No exp with RB's, just what I hear. Heard the twin turbo RB26 is far better than the 25, but again, just what I read on forums, which sometimes tend to be a shitty place to get info.
Let me know how that goes. You should tell his ass to start a build thread on here.
I've heard of quite a few people putting LS1's in the 240. Crazy hearing that exhaust note coming from a Japanese car lol.
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
In the past 3 years he has had 3 project cars, first was a barley running turbo D Sol, then a ebay boosted KA 240 that never ran, and now this nugget. Hes pretty car-tarded and just buys other peoples headaches and never gets them going.
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Lol. Car-tarded. That sounds like my brother...
Pontoon boat - half finished
280z - stripped it and did nothing with it
89 crx - disassembled entire car, stitch welded it, then did nothing with it...left it at the property when he moved...
91 4 door civic - bought it, never did anything with it...
89 civic hatch - got it, slammed it, ran it to the ground
90 civic hatch - got it running, did a burn out at a stop sign, entire engine dropped out the bottom and the cv bearings went rolling everywhere...it was hilarious.
Hell, he even wrecked my blue 91 CRX that I had...Immediately after he got me a black 91 CRX, swapped the B20 over and it never ran right after that...
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nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Got a few goodies in the mail today...
Oil filters, break in oil and my belts. Tomorrow I should get my water pump, thermostat, chain tensioner gasket and IACV gasket. Will start to put it together tomorrow since I get off at 1:30. Gettin exited. Can't wait.
Oil filters, break in oil and my belts. Tomorrow I should get my water pump, thermostat, chain tensioner gasket and IACV gasket. Will start to put it together tomorrow since I get off at 1:30. Gettin exited. Can't wait.
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nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Started working on it last night again...fucking timing chain jumped a tooth because I didn't put the tensioner in so I had to take the oil pan off to get the timing cover off and correct the timing. Put it all back together and put the tensioner in this time...went to bed after that...
Started again in the morning and got the alternator on, power steering bracket, some water routing stuff, the intake, the cas, and got the cams torqued down all the way...should be set to install on Friday hopefully. Waiting for Oreilly auto parts to get my damn freeze plugs in...
Started again in the morning and got the alternator on, power steering bracket, some water routing stuff, the intake, the cas, and got the cams torqued down all the way...should be set to install on Friday hopefully. Waiting for Oreilly auto parts to get my damn freeze plugs in...
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nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Damn...I have bad luck...or I am just stupid.
I assumed the KA24 had the same freeze plugs as the SR20, and ordered some through Oreilly...come to find out that the KA are 40mm and the SR are 30mm...damn it.
So ordered some from Frsport.com that are for the SR and are 30mm. Got 2 day shipping and might get an early delivery for Friday. I hope they come tomorrow...I had plans of getting the EM and turbo back on and putting it back in and starting it by end of day Friday...If they get here early enough, I should be able to still do that.
I assumed the KA24 had the same freeze plugs as the SR20, and ordered some through Oreilly...come to find out that the KA are 40mm and the SR are 30mm...damn it.
So ordered some from Frsport.com that are for the SR and are 30mm. Got 2 day shipping and might get an early delivery for Friday. I hope they come tomorrow...I had plans of getting the EM and turbo back on and putting it back in and starting it by end of day Friday...If they get here early enough, I should be able to still do that.
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Got my 30mm plugs in today. Put those on, bolted back up the exhaust mani and turbo, then me and my brother put it back in the car. Still have the wiring to plug back in, but I got too damn tired to do it tonight...Have pics on brothers gf phone...when she gets em to me, I'll post em up...
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Got everything wired up. Charged up the battery. Went to start...it cranked, got a few back fires, but no start.
Started thinking about it, and I pulled a smooth one. My timing is off a bit. So on Wednesday me and my brother are going to take the valve cover off and turn the engine till the cams line up to where they need to be, take the timing chain off the cams and turn the crank just a bit to the right.
I remember when I put the crank pulley on that the little pointer was a little to the right from the last timing mark...which was the smooth one on my part, by not putting 2 and 2 together and realizing that the timing would be off if I left it like that...was in a hurry cause I was getting excited to get it back in the car...
I'll update on Wednesday and we'll see how it goes!
Started thinking about it, and I pulled a smooth one. My timing is off a bit. So on Wednesday me and my brother are going to take the valve cover off and turn the engine till the cams line up to where they need to be, take the timing chain off the cams and turn the crank just a bit to the right.
I remember when I put the crank pulley on that the little pointer was a little to the right from the last timing mark...which was the smooth one on my part, by not putting 2 and 2 together and realizing that the timing would be off if I left it like that...was in a hurry cause I was getting excited to get it back in the car...
I'll update on Wednesday and we'll see how it goes!
Hey uh...in post 30 is that after you installed the new chain and tensioner?
That is WAAAAAY to slack....Should go straight across the gears with a new tensioner and have maybe a 1/4" play (should NOT be able to put your finger under it, press up, and touch the guide)
That is WAAAAAY to slack....Should go straight across the gears with a new tensioner and have maybe a 1/4" play (should NOT be able to put your finger under it, press up, and touch the guide)
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
It wasn't a new tensioner because you only replace the tensioner if you are also replacing the chain. But about the slack. the chain will have a little bit of slack until you you turn the crank slightly and it lets the tensioner get to it's full extension, which as soon as I barely turned it, it tightened up nicely.
you can see the chain here...nice n tight.
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nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
ALRIGHT! Got it started tonight. I'm pretty thrilled. My first engine rebuild and it started without any major problems...Only thing I need now is a little spark plug wire that plugs in to the number one coil pack and goes on the number one spark plug...I don't know what it's called so if someone could help me out, would be much appreciated. Anyway, I might post up a vid of the start and timing if I remember to.
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
So, it's been a while since I posted about the car.
I got it timed and it starts good every time. I've been able to test drive it a little bit, only ran in to one problem lol...
So, I've done some of what I have read about doing the initial break in on the engine. So far, if what I read was correct, I have taken the car in 4th gear, from about 40mph to 60mph and let it slow back down to 40. Done this about 20 times. Car runs great. Has a small issue when idling, some times it will do an up and down idle, but after I drive it for a min that goes away.
Well, to the problem. Was just driving it around in my little community the other day and I gave it a little more gas in 2nd, and I let off...take a sniff of the air, smells funny, looks behind me, cabin starts filling with smoke. I immediately turn the car off, coast to a stop, and pop the hood only to find out that my oil supply to my turbo had blown out of the side of the engine where it was threaded in. Huge oil puddle under the car, and a nice line of it behind my car...damn it.
Here's some pics...
Unless someone has a better idea, I am planning on getting a Helocoil kit and re-threading that hole...
I got it timed and it starts good every time. I've been able to test drive it a little bit, only ran in to one problem lol...
So, I've done some of what I have read about doing the initial break in on the engine. So far, if what I read was correct, I have taken the car in 4th gear, from about 40mph to 60mph and let it slow back down to 40. Done this about 20 times. Car runs great. Has a small issue when idling, some times it will do an up and down idle, but after I drive it for a min that goes away.
Well, to the problem. Was just driving it around in my little community the other day and I gave it a little more gas in 2nd, and I let off...take a sniff of the air, smells funny, looks behind me, cabin starts filling with smoke. I immediately turn the car off, coast to a stop, and pop the hood only to find out that my oil supply to my turbo had blown out of the side of the engine where it was threaded in. Huge oil puddle under the car, and a nice line of it behind my car...damn it.
Here's some pics...
Unless someone has a better idea, I am planning on getting a Helocoil kit and re-threading that hole...
Celerity
Well-Known Member
Eeek. What a nightmare.
Don't use a Helicoil though.. not for this application. Use a "Time-Cert".
As far as the break-in, this is a widely argued method of engine break in. Don't worry so much about it. If you have control over your compression (Such as boosting) just keep the compression as low as you can for about 1000 miles. Don't get all bent out of shape about rpms and the like. It's not like the conrods "Stretch" at higher rpms and have to wear in differently. Assembly lube, a good oil, a change after 10 miles, then a change after 200 and then after 1000 - Just to get all the microscopic bullshit out of there that jacks up the density of the oil.
EDIT: Actually, scratch that. That's really only for a racing / high demand build. If it's a daily, just be easy on it for about 1000 miles. Same thing the manufacturer recommends.
Don't use a Helicoil though.. not for this application. Use a "Time-Cert".
As far as the break-in, this is a widely argued method of engine break in. Don't worry so much about it. If you have control over your compression (Such as boosting) just keep the compression as low as you can for about 1000 miles. Don't get all bent out of shape about rpms and the like. It's not like the conrods "Stretch" at higher rpms and have to wear in differently. Assembly lube, a good oil, a change after 10 miles, then a change after 200 and then after 1000 - Just to get all the microscopic bullshit out of there that jacks up the density of the oil.
EDIT: Actually, scratch that. That's really only for a racing / high demand build. If it's a daily, just be easy on it for about 1000 miles. Same thing the manufacturer recommends.
nofxSOHCcrx
New Member
Yeah, I had heard of Time-Cert also, but wasn't sure which was better. I had the break-in oil in at the time that happened, and I'll just get some more for it after I fix this, give it about another 980 miles and change to some full synthetic.
Thanks for the advice. I'll do some research on the Time-Cert. Do they work about the same as a helicoil?
Celerity
Well-Known Member
No, but they come in presentation cases / a gift box, a set of instructions and the necessary tool. That's why it costs so damned much.
But when you're done fucking around with helicoils, you'll be happy to spend the money.
