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90 Accord Swap? F22b1?

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by Aviatrix, Apr 16, 2003.

  1. Aviatrix

    Aviatrix Junior Member

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    I'll put it simply. I f*cked up. I blew a piston thru my old engine on my '90 Accord EX (manual trans). After close deliberation and a great deal, I bought a slighly used F22B1 V-TEC engine. The only problem is that the damned thing had the automatic pressure plate on it (i.e it was in an automatic car) I swapped out everything, hooked up my tranny, bought a new STG5 clutch, had a port job, blue printed, balanced, stroked, the WORKS, in anticipation that the work ahead of me wasn't going to be too great. Wrong! My question is.. how the hell do I get the thing to work. The harness had to be taken out of a '94 Accord. It was an automatic also. I was told that the loom was the same, but that the wire for the position sensor for the clutch was cut short and wrapped in the loom. I haven't been able to locate one on schematics, and I'm not too bold about cutting thru my harness. If there is ANYONE who can assist me, please. I have been without my beast for approx 9 months now, and to be frank I want it back, especially after putting all of my money in it, mods, engine work, etc.

    Thx

    7XtheKENNEY
     
  2. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    If it's only one wire, why not just run a completely new one from the sensor through the firewall to the ECU?
     
  3. Aviatrix

    Aviatrix Junior Member

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    See, I don't know if it is one wire. from the switch over, I NEEDED that harness from the 94 accord, for the 90 wasn't sufficient, no brainer. However, nothing underneath the drivers side hooks up (they must have changed sequencing of wires from the 4-5th gen) So I think I am going to have to do the long, tedious process of hooking up each wire individually and splicing them together, whatnot. The wire that I seem to keep comming to is the plug that enter on top of the clutch mechanism IN the car. It is right atop of it. The 94 harness doesn't have this because it came out of an automatic. I have no clue where I need to run it from/to, or what needs to to be done other than that. I got the bare engine. I think I need the vtec selinoid also, but I am not sure. I'm not new to engines, but I am new to the japanese domestic market.
     
  4. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    Damn, I think that's a little out of my realm of knowledge. I think your best bet would be to get a Helm's manual and run the wires manually. I think the difference came from not only the fact that the engine was an auto, but also since your car has an OBD0 chassis, and the engine is OBD1.

    For VTEC wiring, you need to run wires for the VTEC oil pressure and the VTEC solenoid.
     
  5. Aviatrix

    Aviatrix Junior Member

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    Do you think what I am attempting is remotely possible? I have had it here where I live, my father looked at it, and another guy that does swaps looked at it, and the guy that has it right now has only come to the resolution that I should buy a stock motor and put it back in. I told him he's f*cking crazy. What do you think?
     
  6. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    It's definitely possible, just not easy. Obviously, it would be easiest to put a stock engine in there, but since you already have the F22B1 (pretty darn similar to the stock one, except for the whole OBD issue), you're probably gonna find it cheapest to get the one running.
     
  7. 1991AccoLudeCoupe

    1991AccoLudeCoupe Member

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    I am planning to swap one of these into my 91 EX...I am having my buddy do the wiring for me. I'll ask him what he thinks and try to get you a good answer. I think he'll know what is up with the swap...he's been a Honda tech for years... :worthy: he rebuilds, swaps, and rewires cars in his sleep (Note:the preceding statement may contain false statements :D )

    I'll get back at ya'

    Peace, Theron <_<
     
  8. hanzuki

    hanzuki Junior Member

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    the clutch pedal should have two swithces. the one on top is the interlock switch (should be). It is responsible for cutting the starter until the pedal hits the floor. The other is for the cruise control. It checks to see if the pedal is depressed.

    The interlock switch should have a blue-red wire and a black-green wire. The blue-red should goto the #9 fuse on the dash fuse box. The black-green should goto the pgm-fi controler and tie into the wire coming out of what should be pinout b9 (could be a blk-grn or blu-red wire)

    the cruise switch, should have a pink, and black wire. the black goes to ground on the dash fuse box, and the pink ties into pin 14 on the cruise (which should also be pink) module which should be the same on the a/t setup, only the switch would be on the brake pedal.

    The wires may be different colours, but the pinout should be the same, but atleast you have an idea on where they need to be wired.
     
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