90 Integra starting problem

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Evo&Tegra

New Member
So my girlfriend has a 90 ls with cams, cai, and shitty intake mani with a hole in it from her ex bashing it in to fit. He fucked with the car a lot and it always has problems.

We ordered a skunk2 intake mani and it came in today which should resolve a few issues but here is my question...

When trying to start it this morning (let her take the evo to work so I could mess with her car) I had to hold the key over and constantly rev it up so that it would stay on. I know her ex messed w/ the fuel lines which I need to correct once we get a AFC so my tuner can do his magic (anybody need a tune hit me up and I'll hook you up with a etune master). Any suggestions as to what this could be causing this problem?
 
Went out to take a few pictures of a few lines that were disconnected and I had some questions about. Any help?
 

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Sounds like a vacuum leak, the manifold could really be screwing it up, what the hell kind of manifold is that, it looks like spot welded sheet metal???
 
oh boy.... trying to figure out someone elses shitty "modifications" always sucks

once you get that new manifold you need to find a complete vacuum routing diagram for that year integra and check everything, its hard to tell what you have going on there...
 
i guess its a obx one but it was a bitch to take off...the skunk2 looks clean in there and was so easy to put on...her ex welded the throttle body to the mani so now she is ordering the skunk2 throttle body since we cant get the stocker off...

I'll look for the vacuum routing diagram thanks man.
 
ok so got the stock throttle body off since the skunk2 still isn't here and we hooked everything back up and found a vacuum routing diagram but there was a little gold vacuum port that broke off of the throttle body but everything else seems to be hooked up correctly. When we started it up it seemed like it was struggling to breathe...any suggestions?!?
 
well if you have an open vacuum leak in the tb or intake manifold its going to run very poorly
 
got everythin figured out and now found a loose hose. It looks like its got an oil fluid that goes thro it and comes from a source right next to the oil filter. Looks like it fits in the slot on the bottom of the throttle body but cant find what it goes to...any ideas?
 
so found out where the line goes and it tee's into the iacv... i went to drive it to advanced cause it threw a code it started over heating about 10 minutes into the drive. When I start the car it idles around 600rpm and then it throws a code and the cel comes on and it idles at around 1300rpm.

any idea why it would be overheating or what the cel code could be?
 
Well if your over heating really quick check your whole coolant system for leaks and such. Check the signs of a bad head gasket. A leaking head gasket can cause uneven compression which also causes erratic idle.... and the overheating ofcourse.
 
Not really sure, extreme compression loss, oil pressure or temperature could cause a code. For the quick signs of a leaking/blown head gasket are; cloudy antifreeze, cloudy/milky/watery oil and coolant loss not from an external leak. Also white exhaust (not blue or black or gray and not cause its cold) should be a good indicator, however nothing beats a compression check.
 
Blown head gaskets do not throw codes but high coolant temp will make irratic idling. The vacuum hoses you showed in the pics should not hook up to anything if the b18a has been swapped for a b16a. The hose go to the evap tank and the b16a doesn't require that. Also disconnect the ecu fuse from the fuse box under the hood for 10 sec and put it back in start it up and wait to see if the irratic idle starts before or after the code. If it starts before the code then its air in you iacv and you need to bleed the air out of the coolant system. If it does it after the code pops then i would lean towards your map sensor as being the problem. Overheating is caused by not having enough coolant check your reservoir and radiator... Not calling you incompitent or anything but sometimes its the easy things that we forget to check that cause problems.
 
the erratic idle starts before the code is thrown and then the code seems to correct itself and it idles around 1200-1300rpm...i put in coolant in the reservoir yesterday...i'll bleed the air out of the coolant system thanks man.
 
well i tried to clear the air out of the coolant system by taking out the bleeder screw and just adding coolant until it comes out but it never did...the idle isnt to irratic now just ~100rpms around 500rpm until it throws a code and jumps to 1300-1400 where it idles just fine...I tried to take it for a drive to see if it overheated but about two miles away i would press on the gas but nothing would happen...I turned the car off for a second and turned it back on and it didn't do it again...
 
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