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91 crx si,90 b18a1

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by INJEN78, Mar 4, 2009.

  1. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    car runs good until it hits operating temp,then the idle jumps from 2000 down to almost stalling,back up,back down etc.
    i cleaned the fitv,and iacv,and screwed the plastic ring all the way in,what could be the problem??i bled the coolant,im at a loss,shit is pissing me off,thats the only thing keeping me from registering the car
    plz help out this newb!!!
     
  2. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    oh and its running a little rich,ive got smoke coming out the exhaust that burns my eyes when i smell it,i was going to chip and tune,but what could be causing it too run that rich??
     
  3. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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  4. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    anybody???im going to get it chipped,but if the ecu is fucked i dont want to
     
  5. murray195

    murray195 Member

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    idle

    Hey sounds like a vacuum leak. Grab a can of ether and lightly spray each of your vacuum lines at their connecting points. If spraying a line causes a change in your idle, you know where the leak is. Best of luck.
     
  6. Slow&Delirious

    Slow&Delirious isn't fast or furious

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    my friends Hatch (93 D15B7) does the same things, we adjusted the idle screw and cleaned the IAC too. We couldnt find a solution either
     
  7. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    not a vacuum leak,only does it when the motor hits operating temp...i have no clue wut it is,,fuck it i guess,,,now how about my running rich problem???lol
     
  8. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    are you running an aftermarket fpr??
     
  9. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    all stock motor,has an intake and catback exhaust
     
  10. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Bad O2 maybe for the running rich.
     
  11. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    :werd: .. since its basically stock, its could either be a bad o2 or a faulty fpr ..
     
  12. George777

    George777 ^^ Likes Bewbies

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    Any CEL?

    Could always check the TPS, too.
     
  13. hondafr3ak702

    hondafr3ak702 New Member

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    it could be an o2 sensor caus mine smokes a little and now it idles at 400 rpm almost stalling....but im not sure...
     
  14. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    no cel,no blinking led on the ecu,im going to try another ecu,if not,maybe the fpr,shit is pissing me off
     
  15. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    well a bad o2 wouldnt necessarily cause the CEL to go off.. but thats what i'd check first

    how old is the CAT?
     
  16. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    air in the coolant. bleed it.

    happening only at operating temp is your dead giveaway.
     
  17. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    cat is good,i checked it before i put it on,i can see through the combs,and ive tried bleeding the coolant sooo many times,it does nothing,she just likes being a fuckup i guess
     
  18. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    i vote TPS also. the way i adjusted mine was i de-pined the plug, then put the individual wires onto their respective prongs on the TPS. then connected the battery, turned ignition on (not running) and adjusted the TPS till i got .49v at idle, had a friend hold the pedal to make sure it read 5v and it was perfect. as soon as i got my TPS adjusted, my idle gremlins went away and my car stopped backfiring under part-throttle.
    also make sure your timing is set right, a too far retarded ignition timing "can" cause the car to run rich from the excess heat getting to your O2 sensor. but the idle problem i'd think is your TPS since you tried everything else.
     
  19. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    but it only does it when at operating temp.???i dont know,im swapping intake manifolds right now,so hopefully itll be gone
     
  20. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    so did mine? when heating up it would idle at like 2k, then as soon as it hit operating temp, the revs would keep cycling at idle from like 1900 then drop down to about 500. before you go replacing parts, do this last diagnostic, it's really easier than it sounds. and it could save you massive head aches and more lost cash.
     
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