91 EF with B18B1 not starting

[RiseUp]

well i had to go google that... and seems like a fit

I tried doing as much research as possible before asking, and from what I've read it seemed so, but i just wanted to make sure.

On a side note, there's a PR4 OBD1 ECU with an OBD1>OBD0 harness on it hooked up to my engine harness. There's also another PR4, but OBD0. Would it be more beneficial to run the OBD1?

 

[RiseUp]

I started going through all the wiring, trying to tie up loose ends and make sure everything is going where it should, and I noticed my distributor has the round 7 pin plug (for an Si harness,but assuming prev. owner tried to do mpfi conversion), but has 4 injectors,dpfi manifold/tb, and was wired through OBD0>1 harness as dpfi. I don't know what's up with the wiring, but I'm pulling the entire harness out and starting out fresh to get my EF running.

Can the b18b1 run dpfi? If so, I think I'll run it through the OBD0 PR4 as dpfi just to get it running, then convert to mpfi afterwards. Distributor is wired to a round Si plug, so I'll see how to tackle that, too.

 

[RiseUp]

Just an fyi, I knew only the very basics of an engine when I joined this forum(read my first post), and tried to figure as much out on my own as possible. I am a newbie to the engine side of things, and I'm trying to learn as much as I can as fast as I can, so if I'm not grasping something, or I assumed something incorrectly, feel free to correct me, just hold off on the flaming unless I really deserve it.
Thanks to everybody for their help and patience.

 

[Jswike]

Okay converting to obd1 requires a 4 wire o2 sensor and the mpfi conversion.
Look at the injectors they go from 4 to 1. Left to right. Each injector has 2 wires you will notice that all 4 have a wire coming out thats the same. So 4 black wires well say. They go to the 4 same colored wires on resistor box. The leftover goes thru the firewall to pin a15 on the obd0 harness. Look up mpfi swap on here lots of good articles. The other 4 go to he Ecu at pins a1 a3 a5 a7 for injectors 1 2 3 4 respectively. If you look at the plug with the wires coming out to you like it's plugged in. The plugs go a b c. Left to right as plugged into obd0 Ecu. As looking at wires it is odds across tops evens on bottom. So 1 3 5 7 9 11 so on on top. 2 4 6 8 so on on bottom. That'll fix fuel whether obd0 or 1. So long as distributor is wired right as well. Use whatever set of plugs that work and do mpfi distributor wiring. I can explain that in detail if you get confused. Always modify things on your chassis cabin harness. This way you can pull the conversion harness and go obd0 or use it on another car. And you know you'll always be wiring for obd0 pinouts. I prefer wiring straight to Ecu. ALWAYS SOLDER! Wiring to Ecu helps eliminate using wrong plugs or cutting the wrong wire.

 

[RiseUp]

Okay......wire.

Thanks man, sounds good.

Here's my line of troubleshooting thus far, somebody point out if I've missed a step or asumed something incorrectly;
I took off my fuel rail, and was greeted by fuel. (proving engine is getting fuel.from pump)
If i try to get sparks from spark plug wire to ground, nothing happens.(proving no spark)
I checked continuity of the spark plug wires, and they passed.(proving wires are not faulty)
If i read the ohms of the ignition coil, it's within spec(.7-.8 ohms/12k-20k ohms). (proving that the ignition coil is not faulty)
If i read voltage between positive pin on distributor and ground of battery when the key is turned to first position, I get the battery's voltage, minus a few millivolts.(proving that distributor is getting power)
There's no ash/soot/burn marks on the rotor or cap. (proving cap/rotor are good)
What should I do next?
There's a round plug on the harness that connects to the distributor's (also round) plug, and I checked the wire colors with an ODB0>OBD1 distributor wiring guide, and they're correct.
I'm using the PR4 ECU(OBD1) and I tried to pull CEL codes and didn't get any flashes so I'm at a loss as to where to look next. From what I understand, it seems as though my distributor is in working order, but is wired incorrectly somewhere. I'll check continuity between the distributor and it's corresponding pins on the ECU and make sure everything's connected where it should go.
Any thoughts?

 

[Jswike]

It is definitely distributor wiring. Do a full check on every wire for the mpfi swap. That will fix it for sure.

 

[RiseUp]

So I traced all the wires from the distributor plug to the ECU, and all were connected right, except for B11/12 (CYP sensor input/signal). On the OBD0>1 harness they weren't connected, so I connected them to their corresponding pins. I was excited thinking that I found the problem, but turned the key and...no start, no spark still.I was thinking that I'd just have to redo this OBD0>1 harness, but that can't be all of the problem, because if I try the PR4 OBD0 ECU then I get the same result. No spark.
Suggestions?

 

[Jswike]

Be sure to check if injectors are firing. The fuel pump primes for a few seconds and then it's waiting for a signal from either crank or cam position timer to tell it the engine is moving. Pressure to the rail is good but not the final word. If you crank and the injectors fire, you'll see it on the plugs. Don't flood the engine tho. If injectors don't fire it's distributor wiring. Tbh even if they do fire it's distributor wiring. Lol. Youre at the same point as me with my type r crx. Look at first pic on my signature. There was a bare wire in the dizzy shorting out. My ignitor wire I think.

 

[RiseUp]

It lives!

Replaced the rotor and dist cap, swapped OBD1 PR4 for OBD0 PR4 ecu, turned the key and it started right up. Thank you guys for all the help and tips. :thankyousigna2:

 

[Nguyen206]

1993 Eg Si b18b1 swap

so i got my hatchback that is similar to your problem. its cranking but its not starting.

i bought this car for 900 bucks. it was missing some parts but i didnt really care. it was a cheap project car for me with a LS swap.

when i bought it the guy told me when ever i wanna turn on the car i have to revv the motor up so it warms up. but i notice when i took the car home and i fail to revv up the motor to let it warm up. the car would have a hard time turning on or it wont turn on at all for that day and the next day it would allow me to do the same thing and gives me a chance to revv up the motor. and ever since i been doing that the car feels weaker and weaker and now its not giving me that chance to revv up the motor to let it warm up anymore. so its just sitting there and cranking.

i also noticed after i bought the car i changed the spark plugs to see if it helps that "warming up" problem. and it did. for a few weeks and i had to do the same thing every morning to warm up the car again. im wonderring what could it be. my mechanic was telling me that its somethign with the wiring under the dash but it does not make any sense to me that it would be the wiring under the dash if my motor still ignites once inna while.

i recently done the following things. -changed my axles - changed my main relay - changed my fuel filter -motor oil and tranny -added on a exhaust with a test pipe - changed the spark plugs

i checked the dizzy for spark in the spark plugs. and its getting spark. all the car is doing now is cranking. something tells my fuel injectors are clogged and im not getting fuel when i crank the car.

 

[Nguyen206]

so i got my hatchback that is similar to your problem. its cranking but its not starting.

i bought this car for 900 bucks. it was missing some parts but i didnt really care. it was a cheap project car for me with a LS swap.

when i bought it the guy told me when ever i wanna turn on the car i have to revv the motor up so it warms up. but i notice when i took the car home and i fail to revv up the motor to let it warm up. the car would have a hard time turning on or it wont turn on at all for that day and the next day it would allow me to do the same thing and gives me a chance to revv up the motor. and ever since i been doing that the car feels weaker and weaker and now its not giving me that chance to revv up the motor to let it warm up anymore. so its just sitting there and cranking.

i also noticed after i bought the car i changed the spark plugs to see if it helps that "warming up" problem. and it did. for a few weeks and i had to do the same thing every morning to warm up the car again. im wonderring what could it be. my mechanic was telling me that its somethign with the wiring under the dash but it does not make any sense to me that it would be the wiring under the dash if my motor still ignites once inna while.

i recently done the following things. -changed my axles - changed my main relay - changed my fuel filter -motor oil and tranny -added on a exhaust with a test pipe - changed the spark plugs

i checked the dizzy for spark in the spark plugs. and its getting spark. all the car is doing now is cranking. something tells my fuel injectors are clogged and im not getting fuel when i crank the car.

 

[51 Chevy]

so i got my hatchback that is similar to your problem. its cranking but its not starting.

i bought this car for 900 bucks. it was missing some parts but i didnt really care. it was a cheap project car for me with a LS swap.

when i bought it the guy told me when ever i wanna turn on the car i have to revv the motor up so it warms up. but i notice when i took the car home and i fail to revv up the motor to let it warm up. the car would have a hard time turning on or it wont turn on at all for that day and the next day it would allow me to do the same thing and gives me a chance to revv up the motor. and ever since i been doing that the car feels weaker and weaker and now its not giving me that chance to revv up the motor to let it warm up anymore. so its just sitting there and cranking.

i also noticed after i bought the car i changed the spark plugs to see if it helps that "warming up" problem. and it did. for a few weeks and i had to do the same thing every morning to warm up the car again. im wonderring what could it be. my mechanic was telling me that its somethign with the wiring under the dash but it does not make any sense to me that it would be the wiring under the dash if my motor still ignites once inna while.

i recently done the following things. -changed my axles - changed my main relay - changed my fuel filter -motor oil and tranny -added on a exhaust with a test pipe - changed the spark plugs

i checked the dizzy for spark in the spark plugs. and its getting spark. all the car is doing now is cranking. something tells my fuel injectors are clogged and im not getting fuel when i crank the car.

If you have a fuel pressure tester you can find out if you have fuel getting to the injectors. You can rent them from a local parts store. With good pressure use noid lights, to check to see whether you are getting timing/pulse signal to the injectors. you can also rent these from some of the parts stores. Then you can tell if the injectors are getting fuel and a signal. If you have both of these you can pull a plug and crank it to check if you are getting fuel in the engine.
this after you said you have a good main relay you should not have a fuel problem.
next check ignition and timing. the distributor could be bad. after time they do need replaced or refurbished. check to see if the timing is correct. you said you had good spark so the spark it's self should be fine.
there is a lot on a swap that needs to be done. if you have read and remember the privious posts on this thread you will know you need a few things for an obd0 to obd1 swap. one is the 4 wire o2 sensor. with it mounted further back on the exhause the o2 sensor needs the built in heater to help durring warm up time. there are also other purposes. Just check over everything to make sure it's where it should be.