94 accord lx, upgrade

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Functionality before looks. Get your suspension right, and then worry about tires. Otherwise, you are just putting yourself and others at risk.
 
I was afraid someone in their right mind would say that.
Hey this is one of those nights when I need you to be drunk and say
the things that sound better not the things that are logical. Work wit a brotha now cumon.
 
I was afraid someone in their right mind would say that.
Hey this is one of those nights when I need you to be drunk and say
the things that sound better not the things that are logical. Work wit a brotha now cumon.

Yeah, but it really is sound advice. If you don't make sure your suspension is in good shape and well-aligned then you're just going to continue to ruin tires, which will end up costing you more money in the long run...
 
So I went to replace my wheels with my old ones but I had trouble unscrewing one
of the nuts. so i took the car to NTB and they told me the stud is bad and it broke off.
So I went from wanting to buy struts, to having to buy tires and studs.
I'm in so much debt. The good news is I got credit with NTB.
Might as well just have them change my struts later on.
 
At least the will be under warranty, both the parts and the labor.

Let me rephrase that. They SHOULD be under warranty if you let them do it. Might cost a little more, but it's peace of mind if you are busy and don't really have the money nor the time to replace them in the event something happens later down the road.
 
Other than the whole money issue, I'm happy.
So back to my turbo setup. When that day comes will I have to change both my
fuel rail and injectors, or would they be able to handle the mod?
 
I got the new tires. Amazing what tyres can do. My car stopped shaking almost completely, it rides so smooth I just wanna drive. Can't wait to put in my new struts and turbo it.
The guy that painted my car is playing games and seems not to want to finish the job.
Can a paint shop like maaco match the paint without the paint code.
I just need the clear coat put on it and my rear bumper painted.
 
Any decent paint shop should be able to do color matching.
 
Its been a while. Finally got my struts. I had to go with monroe, sensa-tracs, they're actually pretty good. My car handles and feels so much better now.
I keep getting negative feedback about turboing my automatic accord. I don't know what to do anymore.
 
Nice a firm believer of everyone else can go die such as myself..Brilliant..
So anyway I went to MAACO n they told me they wud have 2 start all over again and that color matching might be a problem. I like the paint on my car even thought it wasn't done properly I might just have them put a clear coat on it and be happy
I'm about to start having more money. Want to save up a little bit and then start the mods. I still feel like I won't know exactly what I'm doing but I want to build it anyway..Wish I could do something small just for the meantime since my car goes nowhere.
 
I'm still getting some vibration while driving. It tends to go away at high speeds. I took it back to NTB and they told me it's the rear tires, since one is old and worn out while the other is new and has significantly larger grooves then the rest. My question is I would feel the shake coming from the back then right? I feel like it's coming from the front and I just don't get it.
I'm thinking of getting strut bars soon just to add a little more to the handling. What do you guys think?
 
Hey guys what's going on?
Anyway, I went to O'Reilly autoparts yesterday,
and I got some quotes on some stuff.
I just wanna know two things. Would I lose my alignment after installing strut bars?
Also the guy at the store told me that I don't have to change the whole exhaust system if I buy headers, but it doesn't make sense to me because I'm buying headers so the airflow is less restrictive thus the tubes are thicker, so if I pipe them to the stock down-pipe doesn't that defeat the purpose?
 
Yeah, you'd need an alignment after the struts. as for the exhaust, it depends what you get. Even if it's a high performance exhaust, it may not give way to any more internal volume. Chances are, it'll hook up. If it's the same diameter, the header (not headers, that is plural) should still give some performance, but if you're still interested in turbo, you may just want to wait to get the new header because you'll need a turbo manifold. That way when you do go boost, you don't have a shiny 200 dollar piece of scrap metal. Last but not least beware cheap ebay stuff. It's not that great. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
 
I gotchu, just weighing my options. So I was right about needing and alignemnt, I guess it makes sense that it would lose it after unscrewing the top mounts huh??
I'm worried about the turbo because of my transmission problem(slips too much).
I don't trust anything on ebay so I don't think I would get anything
from there. He aslo gave me a $330 quote on a JET ECU, it said its made for performance and I should be able to program it for a performance application(Not sure to what extent, didn't quite get into details).
Does anyone have any experience with them, or would you suggest any other brands.
I know of AEM and those other name brands but I don't believe that just because it's expensive it's necessarily good.
 
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Wsup once again.
So I'm getting my strut bars next week, not to ask the same questions over again but someone told me I don't need to get another wheel alignment after the install, and I've done some research haven't quite been successful.
So I do need to?
Also I went to the JET website and from what I saw it seems like they want me to unplug my ECU and send it to them with my specs for the to program it. I was guessing I understood it wrong, does this sound right? I thought I would be buying a new chip all together.
 
with putting strut bars on no u wont need another alignment from my experience and as for your ecu being sent to jet with all the info that they want yes it is correct and they are a good company u just need to tell them what u want done and give them all the info of the car and the mods that have been done to the car
 
Wsup once again.
So I'm getting my strut bars next week, not to ask the same questions over again but someone told me I don't need to get another wheel alignment after the install, and I've done some research haven't quite been successful.
So I do need to?
Also I went to the JET website and from what I saw it seems like they want me to unplug my ECU and send it to them with my specs for the to program it. I was guessing I understood it wrong, does this sound right? I thought I would be buying a new chip all together.

If you're actually replacing your shocks, then you'd need an alignment. Just bolting on a strut tower brace though? No, shouldn't need one.

As for the other question, I still don't understand why you're looking at spending a bunch of money on an ECU upgrade at this point. They can't work magic on a stock engine. I'd recommend doing the header and exhaust first, and then maybe thinking about a cam and some head work before you worry about ECU tuning...
 
How brilliant, once again friends.
I'm driving home in my shaky car proud that my engine is no-longer overheating.
just as I'm about to get home, the shaking gets really bad so I stop at NTB to find out if whats going on. Turns out the three of the tires that I did not replace are all bad and about to blow up on me.
So I'm torn between getting new tires for my 18" that make my car look so much better or get my struts and use my old rusty tires with hub caps?
Notice in both scenarios I do not have my music. This is cruelty. I thought I was gonna use the extra money for something else, sway bars maybe after getting new struts tomorrow. Noooot:(:confused:
I work on Hondas for a living, and, I swear, I run into people like you ALL TOO OFTEN. Before you start worrying about buying rims, and burnin money on a paint job / turbo kits, you should get your car running sound.

I hardly ever work on Honda's with less than 100,000 miles on 'em. Most cars with 100,000+ miles usually have A TON of pesky maintenance issues that require attention. Fuel delivery (filter, weak pump, damaged 02 sensors, etc.), belts + seals (timing/cam, accessory, balance shaft, etc), CLUTCH (almost always in need of attention), suspension components (bent arms, rods, shitty shocks, weak springs, alignment issues) electrical problems (voltage leaks, bad grounds, corrosion)

The list goes on, and on.

Don't get me wrong, I've been a Honda fan since the day I started wrenching on 'em (over 8 years ago). I don't think people realize just how RELIABLE a Honda can be if you give 'em the attention they deserve.

Want my advice? Get your LX runnin like it should, drop it on some good quality coilovers (Skunk 2's are cheap and work great), get a set of quality rubber, and call it a day :)
 
I work on Hondas for a living, and, I swear, I run into people like you ALL TOO OFTEN. Before you start worrying about buying rims, and burnin money on a paint job / turbo kits, you should get your car running sound.

I hardly ever work on Honda's with less than 100,000 miles on 'em. Most cars with 100,000+ miles usually have A TON of pesky maintenance issues that require attention. Fuel delivery (filter, weak pump, damaged 02 sensors, etc.), belts + seals (timing/cam, accessory, balance shaft, etc), CLUTCH (almost always in need of attention), suspension components (bent arms, rods, shitty shocks, weak springs, alignment issues) electrical problems (voltage leaks, bad grounds, corrosion)

The list goes on, and on.

Don't get me wrong, I've been a Honda fan since the day I started wrenching on 'em (over 8 years ago). I don't think people realize just how RELIABLE a Honda can be if you give 'em the attention they deserve.

Want my advice? Get your LX runnin like it should, drop it on some good quality coilovers (Skunk 2's are cheap and work great), get a set of quality rubber, and call it a day :)

Congratulations tard, this thread is going on 5 months old. Next time, check the dates before you hit 'reply' please...
 
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