For a first car, I suggest a mild naturally aspirated build. You can always throw on a Jackson Racing Super Charger system later on as you grow into the car and become used to the power you started with.
A good place to start would be a B series engine. I suggest that you use a B18C1 block from the Acura Integra GS-R. Combine this with a B16A2 head (the same motor found in the 99-00 EM1 Civic Si coupe).
The B18C1 block is very popular, so they arent very expensive, and they perform very well for non turbo applications. The B16A2 head is one of Hondas best flowing units aside from the Integra Type R (B18C5) and K20 series engines. Put the two together and you have a very good starting point for an NA build.
So you now have a B18C1 block with a B16A2 head. You will want to throw in a 2 layer head gasket, which is thinner then the stock OEM unit. This increases compression, which will help make more power.
Now this is where you can get sort of fancy. You can decide to do some headwork to that B16A2 head. If you want, you can throw in some aftermarker valve springs, & retainers. This will allow the engine to run more aggressive cam profiles, making more power as well as being able to rev higher safely. You can also have a shop mill a little material off of the B16A2 head to further increase the compression ratio. Ideally, you want around an 11.5:1 compression ratio, which is very easy to obtain with that 2 layer head gasket and a very slight head milling.
If you do all this, you can then run some aggressive cam profiles like the Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, the Blox Type B cams, or the Toda Spec-B cams.
Of course, if you DONT do the head milling, you will want a LESS aggressive cam profile, so something like a Skunk 2 Stage 1 or Blox Type A cam is what you will want. Going with the more aggressive cams without the proper compression ratio will make you LOOSE power, so dont think the more aggressive cam the better. Thats NOT the case. ALso, if you do NOT upgrade the valve springs/retainers, you WONT be able to run said more aggressive cams.
Then you will want to mate this to the proper transmission. The Honda B16A2 or the Integra Type-R's B18C5 5 speed manual tranny are best. These have the best gearing for a naturally aspirated engine. Both trannys have the same basic gearing, but the B18C5 tranny has a limied slip (good for traction) as well as dual cone synchros in 1st and 2nd gear (shifts smoother).
Obviously the B16A2 tranny is cheaper, and there is NOTHING wrong with this unit. If you dont have enough money for the B18C5 unit, dont think you are having to sacrafice anything by going with the B16A unit. You can always add a limited slip later on if you need one.
So, lets say you go with the baller option and get the good stuff, that would mean you are putting together a:
B18C1 short block, combined with a B16A2 head using upgraded (Ferra is a good company) valve springs and retainers. The head will be milled by aboput 0.30mm, and you will be using a 2 layer head gasket, giving you a ~11.3-11.5:1 compression ratio. The head will also house Skunk 2 Stage 2 or Blox Type B cams.
All of this will be mated to either an OEM B16A2 or B18C5 5 speed manual transmission.
You will also need some axles which will mount to your hybrid application. Hasport and The Drive Shaft Shop both makes hybrid axles for this application.
Let's not forget the ECU while we are at it, since none of this will run without one. You are in luck because you can run a P28 ECU. This is a sock Honda unit which can be "chipped" to run a custom ECU tune via programs like "Crome" or "Uberdata". You will REALLY want a knowledgable Honda tuner to tune this thing on a dyno.
So, after all is said and done you have a B18C1/B16A2 engine, running ~11.5:1 CR w/ "Stage 2" cams and a mildly upgraded valve train, using a chipped and tuned P28 ECU, all of which is running through a B16A2 or B18C5 transmission.
If tuned properly, and using the basic bolt ons (intake, header, exhaust), you will be able to realize around 200HP at the WHEELS. In a light car like you hatch, that is more then enough to run down WRX's, V8 Mustangs, S2000s, and a lot of other cars. You will basically be able to pull down low 13 second 1/4 mile times without the aide of drag slicks, as long as you can learn to drive it properly.
Later on, you can add a low pressure turbo or a super-charger and that will putit all over the top, allowing you to run 12 second ETs.
Of course, if this is all way too complicated for you, you can pick up a used ITR motor. Either a JDM (B18C) or USDM (B18C5). This engine, including the transmission and ECU will be less then the 6K dollars you are looking to spend. It wont put out at much power right off the bat, but it will still be way more then you should have for a first car.
-MM