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95si, greddy turbo 2d40h-15g

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by indeskater, Oct 2, 2003.

  1. indeskater

    indeskater Member

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    Jul 7, 2003
    ok, i bought a 95si, i want to go turbo (greddy), with stock internals (bottom end). i need to know what i will need to install the kit. how hard is it putting in oil lines and what ecu modifications, if any, are nessary? is there any part of the installation that i should get help with? is this going to be more than a one weekend project?
    anything will help.
  2. Tonyd0821

    Tonyd0821 Banned

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    Feb 26, 2003

    you will need:

    loctite (blue i believe)
    wire strippers
    socket set
    wrench set
    extension for socket set (the small one) so you can reach the two nuts on your oil pan that cannot be reached by a normal socket
    electrical tape
    wd 40
    wire (12 gua. i believe)
    oil filter
    3 quarts of mobil 1 synthetic
    screwdrivers, phillips and flat head
    zip ties
    if you get the hks ssq bov, you will need to buy an additional flange at 30.00.
    weld the flange onto the charge pipe, install bov. you WILL need some sort of clamps to get the hks ssq in place onto the flange....even with the right tool, its a bitch....

    DeWalt screw gun or a tap/thread device (so you can tap your oil pan)
    Wrench (few sizes, i forget which)
    small hose so you can t-off at your fpr
    extra hose connectors (they snap real easily)

    First off as you open you greddy box, you will find that the instructions are lackluster at best, and look like they have been photocopied 100 times on a copier with low ink. save them for when you need to take a shit and wipe your ass...

    first assemble the turbo by doing this:

    Take the 4 studs, part #36, for the exhaust manifold and apply some loctite to the small threaded portion and thread the studs into the exhaust manifold as shown here. Tighten the studs finger tight and then tighten the rest of the way by threading a nut halfway down the stud, then run another nut until it mates with the first nut and tighten the two together. You can now tighten the stud into the exhaust manifold with the outside nut. Take two 12 mm wrenches to loosen the two nuts from the stud without loosening the stud from the exhaust manifold.
    Repeat the procedure above with the 3 remaining studs, part #37, that are for the turbo exhaust outlet adapter, part #3, so that it looks like this.
    Apply some gasket sealant to both sides of the oil return flange gasket, part #19, and use it when bolting the oil return flange, part #15, to the turbo assembly.
    Use either teflon tape or thread sealant compound to thread the oil pressure line, part #10, to the Banjo Bolt, part #11.
    Bolt the Banjo Bolt, part #11, with both of the copper gaskets, part #12, to the turbo assembly as shown here. VERY IMPORTANT, make sure that the Banjo Bolt is pointing exactly as shown in the photo or the oil pressure line will be routed incorrectly.
    Bolt the turbo exhaust outlet adapter, part #3, to the turbo assembly using the metal gasket, part #27, and the provided bolts. Use NO gasket sealant.
    Bolt the exhaust manifold to the turbo assembly using the rectangular metal gasket, part #26. Again, do NOT use gasket sealant.
    Wrap the oil return line with thermal wrap as seen here and connect it to the oil return flange with the correct hose clamp. The hose will be cut to fit later.

    now you are ready to install your turbo.

    disconnect your battery. jack up the car.
    take off your cai, or stock intake. then drop your bumper and that little foam thingy behind it, along with the black plastic thingy as well. then take off your header. drain the oil out of your pan, take off the oil filter.

    take off your exhaust manifold, and weasel in the assembled turbo/manifold onto the block. you might have to loosen the brackets that hold the a/c in place.

    now comes the fun part.

    drop your oil pan. loosen the two brackets that attach to the oil pan/tranny cover. becareful NOT to strip the bolts....use plenty of wd40 on all bolts you take off.

    there are two nuts that are inacessible (sp) on the oil pan. you will need an extension, then just slide it in there carefully and take out the nuts.

    drop oil pan. tap/thread or drill into oil pan. if you drill, use the smallest bit possible and work your way up. be careful NOT to get any metal shavings in the pan, or if you do, clean them up. dont want them in your engine....

    look right above where your oil pan was and find the oil pressure sensor. CAREFULLY remove the little rubber boot, and using a wrench (again i forget what size) remove the part and install the "T" inplace. reconnect it and run your oil sending line down from the turbo to the "T". make sure to route your oil feed line carefully.

    attach the flange onto the pan, install new oil filter, put pan back on. attach oil return hose to pan, wrap with the heat wrap they give you.

    install all piping, intercooler (if you got one).
    run the o2 sensor to the downpipe, if your lucky it will juuuust reach. if not you need to extend it.
    then piggy back your blue box to your ecu.
    best bet is to solder the connections, altho i didnt.

    put oil in your engine. take the time to double check all of your work, then re hook up the battery and crank it.

    let it idle for about 15 minutes. if white smoke comes out of tailpipe, it is normal.

    white smoke should subside in 30 minutes or so.

    im sure i forgot something in this hastily written post....so someone corect me if i missed out on anything important.... (eg: putting oil back in engine :lol: )

    you got any other questions, click on the link in my sig, and those guys will help you out.
  3. Tonyd0821

    Tonyd0821 Banned

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    Feb 26, 2003

    if you have never attempted something like this before....
    and you dont have a friend helping you...

    budget 1-2 months of online research, 2-3 days of install. and keep 100.00 or so of extra cash on hand because something WILL go wrong. i can guarantee it.

    unless ur a pro, then you might get away with it. but if ur a novice, plan for snags in the install.

    good luck and happy boosting :D
  4. Tonyd0821

    Tonyd0821 Banned

    Likes Received:
    Feb 26, 2003
    oh i forgot to mention a few things....

    you can tap the FPR line twice for your boost guage and the bov. just buy some additional hose.

    at least get a electrical a/f guage (not worth a shit...) and a mechanical boost guage.

    blue box is the fuel management.....id advise you to run the blue box for a few weeks, then switch over to the AFC hack.

    the blue box WILL make you run rich as fuck. your gas mileage will SUCK to say the least. a v8 highly modded mustang will prob. get better gas mileage than you.....assuming you will be in boost on a daily basis.

    you stock cat WILL clog up after a while from running so rich. change it.

    use the "two nut" method when tightening down ur studs on the turbo assembly

    you need to change ur oil more frequently

    "d" series trannys suck, along with their synchros (sp?)

    you CAN run up to 10 psi intercooled on the 15g, but get a boost controller, otherwise u gotta nigger rig it by turning the little nut....

    you may or may not need to buy an additional oil return line. the one that came with the kit, would NOT fit without getting a kink in it, but i got a ek, so maybe the eg is diff.

    the kit was made for the eg. but can also work with the ek.
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