ACL or OEM bearings for D16a6?

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I agree with the part about the crank.....you can ONLY micro-polish them at best....no grinding b/c Honda puts a protective heat coating on the crank.

Bearing can be considered bearing but OEM makes many different sizes based on colors

They cost more but tahts what we did when I helped my friend re-build his b18a

I agree....check with the plastic-gauge stuff and take your time.

Lots of Crappy torque wrenches out there...so don't go cheap on that tool

I have a craftsman and its a POS
 
Really?, I just got off the phone with him and he said he already micro-polished my crank and it looks like he might need to machine it :s. I also have a Craftsman and I have never tested it, so should I go with a Snap-On or something?. I'm going into the Motive Power Technician trade and will use it many times so it wouldn't be a waste of money it's just the fact that I paid soo much for this block to be at the machine shop that I can't afford to buy any tools, lol. Do you guys think that $650-$700 is expensive for the following machine shop procedures on a stock block:
-cylinders honed
-hot-tanking
-rebuild kit (D16a6 pistons and rings)
-gasket set for D16a6 bottom end
-micro-polishing
-deck resurfacing
*and*
-inspection of the block
 
Really?, I just got off the phone with him and he said he already micro-polished my crank and it looks like he might need to machine it :s. I also have a Craftsman and I have never tested it, so should I go with a Snap-On or something?. I'm going into the Motive Power Technician trade and will use it many times so it wouldn't be a waste of money it's just the fact that I paid soo much for this block to be at the machine shop that I can't afford to buy any tools, lol. Do you guys think that $650-$700 is expensive for the following machine shop procedures on a stock block:
-cylinders honed
-hot-tanking
-rebuild kit (D16a6 pistons and rings)
-gasket set for D16a6 bottom end
-micro-polishing
-deck resurfacing
*and*
-inspection of the block


thats would be normal of a shop to charge you.

but why pay $700 on a stock d series engine? could have bought your b20 with that, or another d series off craigslist.
 
I've never heard of a coating on the crankshaft. I'm not sure about later cranks but people have off-set ground them.
 
Geo Metro, Suzuki Swift, Honda Insight, smart fortwo, any number of oddball European cars or Japanese kei cars (Saab Sonnet I think)- loads of 3 cylinder engines out there. I saw a nice inline-3 in a monster build once in Houston- it was an 18 liter engine.

You definitely need the bearings to Platigage the engine.

The Sonnet was a V4.
 
:shrug2:

I thought it had an inline 3 version....

Ah HA! It did! Not that Wikipedia is the bible or anything:

On March 16, 1956 the Saab Sonett, also called the Super Sport or Saab 94, was introduced at Stockholm's Bilsalong (motor show). Boasting a three-cylinder 748 cc two-stroke engine generating 57.5 hp (43 kW) and an 70 kg aluminium box-style chassis from the Swedish designer Sixten Sason, the Sonett I was an advanced low-weight 600 kg (1,323 lb) racer based on aircraft design concepts.[1]
 
I am just wondering; my connecting rods have 2 studs and I just screw the nut on them. Are the bolted style connecting rods only for performance rods? I am also wondering if I can still use a rod stretch guage on the nuts? I know I have to clean the threads on the rods regardless of what I have, but this has kind of been bothering me to know.
 
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