AFTERMARKET INTAKE MANIFOLS....

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TeamUrbanChaos

TeamUrbanChaos

Certified H22 Super-tech
just waned to know your opinions about aftermarket intake manifolds...preferable the 2 manifolds i have listed here.

CLICK 2 SEE:SKUNK 2 MANIFOLD

CLICK 2 SEE:OBX INTAKE MANIFOLD

ive been interested in getting one for a littlE while now but ive heard alot of negative feedback about them.....i ve heard that you lose alot of low end torque, especially on H22 cuz the aftermarket intake manifolds eliminate the secondary intake runners (butterflys) and that they that have to sometimes be slightely modified to fit your throttle body. the only real positive thing that i heard about it ( if you wanna call it positive) is that it makes you VTEC sound alot louder when it hits. if thats the case then i dont thinks thats a good investment...but what do u guys think about that
 
from what i've heard, most of these intake manifolds dont make too much of a difference(sometimes a loss in lowend torque) until you are feeding more air via forced induction. so its up to you, just make sure you get a throttlebody to help utilize the effect of having an aftermarket intake manifold
 
an extrude honed R manifold is the best....
 
So many people make the same Intake Manifold as the Skunk2.. I have a AEBS intake manifold and I also owned the Skunk2 for a day before selling it because everything I read said Skunk2 isn't worth it untilyou start putting down some power.. The AEBS one I got was under $100 and looks identical to the Skunk2 that I had.. But I also got the Hondata Intake Manifold gasket to go with it but I am going to put it on the new setup I have going in.
 
What about the Accord Euro-R intake manifold? Have you considered that one? It says it guarentees 6-8 hp bolt on...
 
Who exactly guarantees a 6-8 hp gain? As mentioned, it probably does increase top-end horsepower, but at the expense of low-end torque due to the lack of the secondary intake runners. Also, the Euro-R manifold requires a bunch of fabrication to get it to work on anything except the H22A7 out of the Accord Euro-R.
 
Originally posted by CarAudiophile@Jan 6 2005, 10:38 PM
So many people make the same Intake Manifold as the Skunk2.. I have a AEBS intake manifold and I also owned the Skunk2 for a day before selling it because everything I read said Skunk2 isn't worth it untilyou start putting down some power.. The AEBS one I got was under $100 and looks identical to the Skunk2 that I had.. But I also got the Hondata Intake Manifold gasket to go with it but I am going to put it on the new setup I have going in.
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where did u get the AEBS one from??
 
I agree, get an AEBs or something of the sort. I personally wouldn't buy a skunk2 because there price is kinda high.

You could always remove the secondaries and cut the 90° bend out of itand reweld it. While your at it take off a few mm's.

What exactly does the hondata IM gasket do, I can see why it's worth 60 bucks?
 
The Hondata gasket keeps the heat down on the Manifold thus I guess making more power. I saw a few Dyno Charts from Various vehicles showing decent gains in the Midrange.. I need a new gasket anyways when doing the Install anyways so I opted for the Hondata one..

The AEBS I got through myself through one of my Dealers. I cleaned it up alot with made a little modifications to it to help out.. But like others said yeah you may see a peak gain but if the rest of the power band goes to shit then it really wasn't worth it.
 
It's basically an insulator. Your head is aluminum, and your manifold is aluminum. The normal gasket is steel (I think?). The three of them sandwiched together is great for transferring heat from the head into the intake manifold. The Hondata gasket is plastic, and acts as a thermal break between the two metal components. It actually seems to work pretty well, and it's reusable to boot, so if you take your manifold off several times, you don't need to replace the crushed metal gasket each time.
 
Here is what my gasket looks like..

hondatagasket.jpg
 
seems decent. But couldn't I make one instead. Like use some gasket material they sell at some autostores, then even put some higg heat silicone on it for a better seal and it do the same thing?

I remember looking at them and thinking wow, what a rip off but now that, that was explained it makes sense and I wanna do it, I just don't want to spend 60 bucks on it.
 
It just seems by the time you spend all the money on all that stuff.. The time on it, it would just be worth it to order it for 60 bucks and get one that you know is tried and true to work right vs taking a chance with one that "may" work.
 
yea i guess your right, but maybe it would be worth it. It's worth a try, shouldn't cost more than 20-30 bucks and no more than an hour.
 
20-30 your aout 1/2 way there.. I got mine for 60 shipped because I couldn't find a wholesaler of them. I would say don't even waste the time and do it right but if you do try it let me know how it goes.
 
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