Andrew
Active Member
Calesta: Thanks man!
Abel: I'm sorry man, the guy who's buying the car (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) wants the wheels to come with the car. (And the OEM's, too)
I'm meeting him at the bank tomorrow at 2pm. It's a dealership up in North Carolina thats sending a guy down to buy this thing sight-unseen (except for the pictures on Craigslist of course!) How crazy is that?
Anyway, I bought those wheels for like $180. I'm sure you can (and I'll start looking around) find some wheels for cheap, too.
I'll have to come see you up there some time. Been a while, cuz!
Matt: The cost. Plus the ACL's (normal style, NOT the "race" version<-- I've heard that they do not have a very long life.) seem to be pretty 'proven.' I haven't really heard of anyone (however I haven't really searched...) having trouble with them, and it's probably one of the most common bearing choice of all builds.
I looked it all up last night:
The ACL's are around $75 INCLUDING the pistons rings.
The OEM bearings are $75.52 and rings are $112.04, totalling $187.56.
I know, it would last longer with OEM's, but as far as I can tell, and please tell me otherwise if I'm wrong, the ACL's seem to hold up just fine. (Obviously not as long as OEM's, but whatever)
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On topic:
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I've got the Volvo TD05HL-15G disassembled and cleaned. The WG and BOV are 'in paint.' BTW, this will be a pretty unique turbo setup. The BOV is integrated into the compessor housing, so NO, I won't have a cool PSHHHHH when I shift, unless I block it off. However, it will be very stealthy... (Nix the FMIC )
Pics laterz!
Edit. Pics now:
You can see the integral mounting plate for the BOV:
(And yes, I think I'll be able to reuse the custom piece!)
BOV & WG
Turbine housing:
(*talked about below)
Cartridge:
(Yes, I plan on trying to run water to it. I've never done it before... Need to research H20 supply/drain)
Should reassemble it this week. Just want to get past the car selling stuff as well as have a chance to mock it all up and know for sure how it needs to be clocked. (Snap rings are a PITA when it's in the Engine bay...)
* Turbine Housing.
As you can see, the flange looks a little different. It's actually a T3 bolt pattern (great!), but the wide opening causes major leaks with regular T3 flanges... I'm going to have to figure something out. My options are:
1. by welding, fill in the excess opening and smooth out the edges
2. use a piece of 3/8" steel and create an adapter flange to 'funnel' the gases into a normal, rectangular T3 shape
3. spend $35 on an adapter flange. lol. <- emphasis on the lol.
We'll see what works best
Toodles............
Abel: I'm sorry man, the guy who's buying the car (!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) wants the wheels to come with the car. (And the OEM's, too)
I'm meeting him at the bank tomorrow at 2pm. It's a dealership up in North Carolina thats sending a guy down to buy this thing sight-unseen (except for the pictures on Craigslist of course!) How crazy is that?
Anyway, I bought those wheels for like $180. I'm sure you can (and I'll start looking around) find some wheels for cheap, too.
I'll have to come see you up there some time. Been a while, cuz!
Matt: The cost. Plus the ACL's (normal style, NOT the "race" version<-- I've heard that they do not have a very long life.) seem to be pretty 'proven.' I haven't really heard of anyone (however I haven't really searched...) having trouble with them, and it's probably one of the most common bearing choice of all builds.
I looked it all up last night:
The ACL's are around $75 INCLUDING the pistons rings.
The OEM bearings are $75.52 and rings are $112.04, totalling $187.56.
I know, it would last longer with OEM's, but as far as I can tell, and please tell me otherwise if I'm wrong, the ACL's seem to hold up just fine. (Obviously not as long as OEM's, but whatever)
--------------------------------------------------------
On topic:
--------------------------------------------------------
I've got the Volvo TD05HL-15G disassembled and cleaned. The WG and BOV are 'in paint.' BTW, this will be a pretty unique turbo setup. The BOV is integrated into the compessor housing, so NO, I won't have a cool PSHHHHH when I shift, unless I block it off. However, it will be very stealthy... (Nix the FMIC )
Pics laterz!
Edit. Pics now:
You can see the integral mounting plate for the BOV:
(And yes, I think I'll be able to reuse the custom piece!)
BOV & WG
Turbine housing:
(*talked about below)
Cartridge:
(Yes, I plan on trying to run water to it. I've never done it before... Need to research H20 supply/drain)
Should reassemble it this week. Just want to get past the car selling stuff as well as have a chance to mock it all up and know for sure how it needs to be clocked. (Snap rings are a PITA when it's in the Engine bay...)
* Turbine Housing.
As you can see, the flange looks a little different. It's actually a T3 bolt pattern (great!), but the wide opening causes major leaks with regular T3 flanges... I'm going to have to figure something out. My options are:
1. by welding, fill in the excess opening and smooth out the edges
2. use a piece of 3/8" steel and create an adapter flange to 'funnel' the gases into a normal, rectangular T3 shape
3. spend $35 on an adapter flange. lol. <- emphasis on the lol.
We'll see what works best
Toodles............
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