Andrew's engine swap (pics)

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IDK! I've got to get another oil filter then I'll try it again today.
It cranked over just fine, but I guess something isn't just right yet.
 
All that stuff with the wire tuck.... That type of stuff scares me.

I think that type of thing needs to be done ot the engine AFTER its in and running. That way if something is messed up after you do it, you know it's the wire tuck.

As you sit... Man, it could be so many different things.
 
So i've spent the last day or so now going through this entire thread, and its been fun. i cant believe how much money you've put in this car of yours and how many times you've had engines in and out of it! i'm doing a b18b swap on my car in about a week once schools out, and i've been researching it for many months now. i just hope i dont have as many problems as you've run into with your b16 swap, yikes! I'd love to do a wire tuck myself, but the idea of moving all my wiring around like that, pulling harnesses apart, and depinning connectors just sounds like a giant pain in the dick lol

i had a question for ya. On one of the pages back i saw where you fixed your shuddering/shaking issue by removing the dust seals from the hubs, and the dust ring/locking collar that holds the rubber boot to the end of the axle. now obviously at this point i havent started the swap but i was curious why the dust ring on the axle has to be removed. does it hit something on the hub or what? it seems like without it the boot would work its way backwards introducing dirt into the knuckle, and then at some point a catastrophic failure :eek:

i myself am using a 90-93 midshaft, 91 driver side axle non-abs, and a 94 abs axle for the passenger side. i was told the 94+ axles would work for the pass. side, but i dunno for sure. i have a feeling i might be goin out to purchase a DA pass. axle at some point during this swap lol, we'll see.

anyway, its been fun reading through this huge thread, and i wish you luck in your future endeavors with the rex
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The dust ring is normally removed to give you an extra little bit of 'room' to work with. It gives you about 1/8-3/16" extra length to help prevent binding(because the width of the DA's and EF's are VERY close, but not exact.) Some people don't have to remove them, some do. It's all just about how your car was manufactured, but most of the time it's a good idea to remove them.
As far as catastrophic failure is concerned... thats not a large worry of mine. I don't drive the car enough to worry about it.

If I were you, I would just keep it simple. Use ALL DA (90-93) axle parts. (Drivers/Midshaft/Passengers)
(ALL of my troubles were simple - the Midshaft. You cannot use an LS axle on a SiR midshaft.)

Thanks for the compliments and I hope you can learn a lot from my thread so you won't have as many 'hard-way-learned' issues.
Ask any questions you have. Thats what we're here for!

-Andrew
 
Little update fellas! I've been really busy the past few days...

I'm out for the summer so I brought my tool box home from school (yes, I have more tools at school than at home... lol)
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Terrance came over and mounted up a solenoid to see what it'd look like... not too shabby. but I wanna run wet, so I'll figure something out.
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But most importantly I've been running electricity to my shop! So I now have lights to work with, and outlets and such. So my shop has been a wreck!
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So I guess I'll have some more updates as I continue on making progress on the car.
Another thing, I'm buying a car.... 07+ Civic Si sedan (4does=Morehoes)
so we'll see it when I get it!
 
Ha I noticed you tucked the charcol canister too, is inside the car under the dash?
 
Delete that crap. Just run a vent line down from your fuel vent under your car.
I'm in FL and we don't have Emissions, so who cares? lol....
 
Delete that crap. Just run a vent line down from your fuel vent under your car.
I'm in FL and we don't have Emissions, so who cares? lol....

I dont have it e-check either but wont you still throw a check engine for PCV or evap solenoid? And cut and plug the nipple for the vaccum line coming out out of the TB?
 
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With a chipped ECU, you can get rid of the codes/lights.
 
Well Im running a stock ECU, but I suppose I could wire in some kind of resistor to make it think the sensor is still there.
 
No you don't have to do any of that. It won't throw a code. Just plug the vacuum lines and your good to go!
 
Yeah but I have the firewall mounted MAP and EVAP solennoid. So leave the sensor plugged in and block all the vaccum lines and run a longer hose down under the car for the vent line for the gas tank right?
 
efhondakid, You can delete EVERYTHING but the map sensor. Just have a vacuum line running to it(try to keep it relatively short, under 8" or so) and the 3 wires going to it. You can cut the other plug & associated wires off.
If you don't believe me, just unplug it, and take the map sensor off of the bracket. Only do what I said up there ^ and see how she runs.

Terrance... whatchu talkin bout? a little trade action?

Oh, btw guys, just something kinda funny. This summer I quit my job at a local Computer store my friend owned and started working with my dad restoring a 1970 El Camino from the ground up (454 + goods and Spray) and also working with his company. Anyway, I'm about to make a purchase at Jegs and NPD for more than I bought my CRX for! lol
Edit: just made it. Good ole Mr. Discover card helps us all the time :)
 
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