Anyone know why my JRSC won't pass emissions!!!

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you could just take the belt off the pulley too...

I thought of that too, but wouldn't the bypass still be functioning normally and trying to route the intake air thru the blower?

i forgot the d-series is the magnuson blower, i was picturing the eaton type. Well either way, iirc they're similar- on the back of the manifold there should be a vacuum valve that actuates a little arm, that arm controls the internal bypass valve going between the blower and manifold. You should be able to zip tie that arm up so it doesn't move.

if this fixes the prob you may be able to go back to running the FMU, just keep the hotter plugs in there and see what happens. if its still having the same issue you could probably try either running a heated secondary O2 or one of those O2 simulators(?)

also double check your ign timing, if its too far retarded that will make your cat run too cold which would cause the secondary "not ready" condition.
 
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you have to drive the car ~ 200 miles to clear all the MIL status codes. DO NOT keep resetting the ECU.

i'm going through this right now with my mirage, but for other reasons.
 
I thought of that too, but wouldn't the bypass still be functioning normally and trying to route the intake air thru the blower?

i forgot the d-series is the magnuson blower, i was picturing the eaton type. Well either way, iirc they're similar- on the back of the manifold there should be a vacuum valve that actuates a little arm, that arm controls the internal bypass valve going between the blower and manifold. You should be able to zip tie that arm up so it doesn't move.

if this fixes the prob you may be able to go back to running the FMU, just keep the hotter plugs in there and see what happens. if its still having the same issue you could probably try either running a heated secondary O2 or one of those O2 simulators(?)

also double check your ign timing, if its too far retarded that will make your cat run too cold which would cause the secondary "not ready" condition.

Ok ok,I found the bypass valve and zip-tied it...i put the stock plugs in but,my dad said the Iridium plugs in there are better so I put them back in..um...stock FPR no VAFC...i took it for a short drive today and "NO"boost at all(Very slow slower than stock)my dads bringing the Honda Diagnostic from work tomorrow....I need to drive it more(150miles)maybe on the HWY when I get a chance...is the MSD 6Al/Plug wires going to affect anything??
 
you have to drive the car ~ 200 miles to clear all the MIL status codes. DO NOT keep resetting the ECU.

i'm going through this right now with my mirage, but for other reasons.

Yeah..I know all about "Readiness Driving"i've done it at least 10x...and everytime I've reset the ecu i'd put at least 200 miles on it....drive on the HWY at around 70 mph and every 5 min let off the gas down to 40mph and do it about 5-6 or how ever many times...then do normal street/city driving...
 
:werd: That's what I thought when he was saying he kept resetting the ECU and it kept saying "not ready" :roll:

Yeah i've reset it about 10-12 times but,everytime I make sure I'd put at least 200 miles on it...that's resetting all in a 2 year period trying many different things too...also I have to worry about what day of the month and time/day to drive the car since it is insured but,was registered last in 2005:eek: ....so I would take a drive on the HWY at 1-2 a.m....drive in the day around 4-5 in traffic...very scarey!!!...I just need that lil sticker that says 2008!!!
 
obd2 cars fucking suck.

They more than suck!!!...there more than a fucking headache!!!...I swear I'm going bald from the stress the last 2xyears....dads been pressuring me to sell it but there is alot of history,money,time,in this...I could write a book on it!!not too mention it was a father/son project in the end..we fixed from 3 others shops that completely tore it apart..and loss parts like the doors,windshield when they moved location....3xlayers of Bondo from them warping the doors..big chunk cut out of the rear quarter for tailight conversion..I can go on and on...all the metal fab/weldsand paint my dad did...and i did the grinding,wet/dry sanding,glass work,and the whole interior in carbon fiber!!..yes everything!!!well everything but the carbon bucket seats,shift knob,and floor;) I just wish it was done on time back in 99-2000!!!I'm very pround about how the interior came out!!!...it took me 3xtimes of trial and error to get it right so it holds up in the hot sun etc..and alot of R&D!!!BUT,IT WAS WELL WORTH IT!!!by the time the car was all done I was literally done with the scene,all the big name sponsors who wanted to sponsor the car when it was done etc got no response from me...I only entered it in one show(NOPI)and got a huge response!!..I"M DONE!!!
100_0765.jpg


carboninterior.jpg
 
Ok so I took the car out for like 10 miles yesterday and the diagnostic said the CAT passed but,not the O2 or EVAP....today I drove it for 70 miles and now the CAT-O2-EVAP are "Not Ready"!!!:mad: I don't get it??....
 
if this fixes the prob you may be able to go back to running the FMU, just keep the hotter plugs in there and see what happens. if its still having the same issue you could probably try either running a heated secondary O2 or one of those O2 simulators(?)

also double check your ign timing, if its too far retarded that will make your cat run too cold which would cause the secondary "not ready" condition.

Ok..so if I run the"Fouler"(bolt type)simulator would it matter if I put that on both O2's???or would that mess things up??
 
oh holy shit bro that interior is fucking amazing...
now you got me seriously thinking of doing the same thing in my Si :wub:

anyhow, back ot- i haven't heard of this a whole lot on the P2P ecu's, but I know it was a fairly common thing for awhile on P2Es where the evap would go bad (short internally) and would consequently take out the evap circuit in the ecu. I have about 3-4 P2Es at my house with this problem, all from different cars. If you have access to an ecu even just to borrow, you might want to swap it and see if that clears it up
 
also, on the way to smog.. drive the car as hard as you can.. the hotter the cat the better..
 
Thanks bra!!...I busted ass to get the carbon done and dnoe right...I use to be huge in the scene..I had all the mags and went to all the local shows and back in 97 I was like I've never seen a full carbon interior except in Japan...I thought the car would be def.done by 99 but,I've been screwed way too many times by friends,bodyshops,parts etc..that it delayed like 2-3 yrs!!!so by the time everything was done I'm just burnt that I just want to enjoy the ride and drive this car!!!....anywho....I bought the O2 "Fouler"plug put that in and drove it for around 40 miles plugged it up in the diagnostic and the CAT passed!!!....the O2-Evap are still not complete....I figure I just need to drive the car a lil more....I just need one more to pass and it should pass emissions....I know in NY you can get away with two not passing but,I haven't taken this car to an emissions place in like 4 years!!!my boy does emissions I'll have to give him a ring....I don't know anyone anymore with a 96-99 civic so skip trying to buy another ECU...any other suggestions? BTW it just amazes me as many sites,friends,dealerships,Jackson Racing,tunners I've been to no one knows or can pin point what might be the problem!!!not even my dad!!!...and he is Macgyver!!!
 
oh holy shit bro that interior is fucking amazing...
now you got me seriously thinking of doing the same thing in my Si :wub:

anyhow, back ot- i haven't heard of this a whole lot on the P2P ecu's, but I know it was a fairly common thing for awhile on P2Es where the evap would go bad (short internally) and would consequently take out the evap circuit in the ecu. I have about 3-4 P2Es at my house with this problem, all from different cars. If you have access to an ecu even just to borrow, you might want to swap it and see if that clears it up

also, on the way to smog.. drive the car as hard as you can.. the hotter the cat the better..

Yea...I just put the O2(Fouler/stimulator)plug on from Advance auto and drove the car 40 miles and the CAT passed!!!..but,I have a new Catco already on it...weird..must be very sensitive then...
 
holly Fucking Shit!!!! Finally My Civic Coupe Passed Emissions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!......5 Years Of Stress Just Taken Off My Back!!!!!!...thanks Alot To Stmotorsports For Your Knowledge And Everyone Else Who Helped Out!!!
 
nice :thumbsup:

congrats on finally getting it straightened out

so what finally did it, the O2 simulator?

ps/ot- where exactly in NY are you? I'd love to check out that interior up close, do you still have the molds for it?
 
Well I did put the O2 stimulator on but,I don't think that was it....I just needed to drive it on the HWY to get the CAT hot which was pretty easy...it was running a lil lean and running no boost..it ran literally worse than stock!!!the gears felt very looong...I drove the car in 4th on the HWY and 5th at like 85+...and if the HWY had a slight slant/hill I had to down shift just to get up it!!!it has absolutely NO torque..kind of scary to drive in the daytime so I usually wait til 1-2 a.m...;) ...I'm in Atlanta..but,yeah emissions is the same here as N.Y...I got away with 2xNot Ready....as far as the carbon...I have 2xfriends that work for Panoz who do it for a living..they told me to make molds but,it was going to be expensive and that I should put it in producton and sell it if all that work was going into it...well the way they do it is stronger and lighter...of course but, I didn't like the way the weaves in the carbon came out all flat...kind of like the"fake look"...cause they use "Pre-preg"(Kept in the freezer)carbon which they heat up in the oven...not to mention after talking to my friend he said in acouple months they were going to stop using the"Dry Carbon"and just use the"Pre-preg"which I was buying from my friend for 1/2 the price:D but,then my friends at Panoz said the way I wanted to do it(wrapping the panels) wasn't going to work!!!...so that sounded like a challenge to me...did alot of research after doing both door/arm rests panels,A/B pillars 3xtimes...finally I was confident enough to do the front/rear dash where all the sun hits....that you only have one chance to get it right!!!!...well everything holds up fine now except the rear side panels are lifting a lil cause the panel is so thin it absorbs the heat like a sponge...I would need to lay a few sheets of fiberglass underneath to thicken it up so it won't absorb so much heat but,that would be later when I have time...which I don't right now cause I have a new project...a 64 VW bus keeping me busy!!!!...overall my friends at Panoz were very surprised how it came out and holds up...the hardest thing about working with dry carbon is stretching the carbon where you want it and wet sanding...wet sanding I think was the hardest thing believe it or not...I'll take more pic.s of the carbon for you though so you can see what i'm talking about..give me acouple days and I'll put up alot more pic.s for you...Thanks again for the help stmotorsports!!!:clapping:
 
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