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Arp rod studs

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by FreshDA9, Mar 18, 2008.

  1. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    I have talked a little bit about this in my introduction page. I have a B20 bottom end thats completely stock and a PR3 head i wont to put on for CRVtec and a 75 shot of nos. i was wrried about the sleeves but peope are telling me the rod bolts will fail because they wont hold the revs and told me to look into the arp rod bolts.
    I plan on building the motor for boost next winter and no one is sure about if i have to have the stock rods machined for the arp rod studs im looking to know before drop alot of money into something thats just gonna be getting rid of next winter. also i wanna make sure that this is the right part number 208-6001, says 1.2L 1.6L & 1.8L M8.
     
  2. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    I believe M8 means the metric size of the bolt. find out what size factory bolts are, then youll have your answer.
     
  3. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    thank you i will look into that but if say they are stock M8 and the arp are M8 there shouldnt be any machining right should just press in like a regular stud?
     
  4. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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  5. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    talked to a local machine shop. he can get me the studs for $65 and you have to machine the rod caps that is $25 a rod so i think ima sell the b20 and put my pr3 on my ls and build my other ls.
     
  6. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    Thats what im doin with my build. :D
     
  7. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    cause im not tryin to waste a bunch of money. i can sell the B20 for more money then my B18a or b. im building a motor for boost and dont wanna drop a a bunch of money into something im just gonna tear apart again. i think ima put my head on my b18b thats in my car now sell my b20 and start building my other b18. ill put the nos on the built motor untill i get all the turbo peices (manifold, turbine, etc.)
     
  8. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    It is ARP rod bolts, not studs. Secondly, you can buy them for $60. They are pressed in, yes. No machining is required. They come with the nuts. The size you need is 8mm(metric). When you get them, they will have a piece of paper with the torque specs, wet and dry. I reccommend the wet torque three times (with ARP Moly Lube).
     
  9. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    ok sorry for sayin studs. guy at the local machine shop says the caps have to be machined in order to use the bolts.
    Blanco i didnt say they were a waste of money but i will be wasting money when in 3 months im going to buy rods pistons sleeves etc. thats why i said ill just put my head on my b18 thats already in the car and sell my B20 witch is worth more. by the time i sleeve my other b18 it will be 84mm (close to it i know). i would rather take the $250 and put it toward getting rods and pistons then sleeve work. if i didnt have these plans then i would already go ahead and do it.
     
  10. armluv

    armluv New Member

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    sorry to tell you but blanco is right, you should probably sell both your b18 blocks and put your money into your b20 to make a better more dependable more powerfull ls or ls/vtec. this will provide you with a better engine in every aspect at the same cost for building a b18.

    so says the man with a b18a1 ls/vtec.
     
  11. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    i dont see how a stock b20 will be better then a sleeved and bored ls. stock b20 being 84mm with weak sleeves and rod bolts, but a b20 is still worth more then a ls would be any day. now i take my ls bore it out 84mm and put some duc sleeves in it with a good set of rods and pistons then boost it later.
     
  12. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    i dont know everything i came on hear to ask some questions and you guys gave me my answer just cause i chose to go another way instead of wasting my money you guys hate on me for it? the rod bolts are $65 if that was it then id slap them in but i have to have them machined and thats just not what im wonting to do right now. i just wonted to make some power for this summer. i will be happy with my stock ls with my b16 head untill i get my other motor built.
     
  13. ls/vtechatch91

    ls/vtechatch91 New Member

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    when i bought my arp rod bolts i never had to have them machined.. i dont know who tells u have to do that... like LS VTEC said follow the instructions they give you... you torq. it to like 30lbs or something 3 times.. its not that hard
     
  14. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    i called a local machine shop that deals with mostly hondas and he said the rod caps need to be machined or it will be distorted. i just listened to what he said cause he is very respected machinist.
     
  15. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    They dont get machined, the threads get cleaned. You can do this with a soft wire brush and some motor oil. The only time they get machined is when the bottom of the rod cap gets damaged. And if that is the case, they should be replaced, not machined.
     
  16. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    how woud i go about taken them out without damaging the rods? put the rods in a vice and smack the bolts with a hammer like a wheel stud? what would be the best way you guys would say cause if i dont need to send them out then i might do it.
     
  17. invisibledemon

    invisibledemon Bored Moderator VIP

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    wait for it.......


    ....ok, here goes,

    hey, dont worry about buying anything.
    this is what you want to do:
    take the stock bolts and rods out.
    lay them on the ground and gently smack them with a hammer or hammer like object.
    that way the fine edges of the threads get flattened out a little bit
    then proceed to put them right back where they came out.

    feel how much more tension there is? that means you did it correctly.
    the extra tension will hold stronger, and save you money.

    no need to buy the real stuff, or actually take the time to do it like they say.


    this way will save you so much money and time.
    fuck what they say, do it how you want.



    there blanco, he just wanted somebody to tell him what he wanted to hear.


    to the OP, you asked a question. if you want to do it right the first fucking time then listen to what you are being told.
    the bolts are old and weak, boost it stock, and it wont fucking hold up, going cheap will cost you more in the long run, if you wanna be told something that isnt correct but will cost less, then go somewhere else.
     
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  18. FreshDA9

    FreshDA9 New Member

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    what the fuck are you talking about did you read any of this im not boosting stock internals i wanna run a 75shot with the arp rod bolts. im building a motor for boost it was gonna be the b20 but its worth more so i was gonna sell it and build a b18 for boost. like i said before i dont wont to dump a ton of money when i can wait 3 months and start building.
     
  19. armluv

    armluv New Member

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    There's a reason it's worth more.............because ITS BETTER...
    You want to sleeve something sleeve the b20 and go bigger then 84mm
    boost the hell out of it and be happy

    or you can throw a 75 shot into your b18 ls/vtec maby 2,3 times while watching your oil slick behind you as well as a couple of pistons and rods maby even parts of your crank until you pull over on the shoulder get on your cell phone and call for a tow.

    do not pull out the rod STUDS using a hammer as this will distort the hole the studs go in, could bend the rod and will also stress harden the rod weakening it overall. there is a tool you can buy to remove them properly, it screws on to the stud then expands pulling the stud straight out. My advice is have the machine shop do it since you do not know how do not have the tool. machining your rod caps only needs to be done IF: you spun a bearing or changed the crank i would also recomend doing it if you are changing the bearings just to ensure the bearing surface is flat.
     
  20. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    How many times do I need to explain this... They are ROD BOLTS, not STUDS! They are pressed IN and OUT, not pulled. When removing the piston/rod assembly, use the handle end up the hammer and push downward on the piston lightly until they pop out (of the deck of the cylinder), but before you do this you must remove the rod caps and put rod bolt caps on each rod bolt so it doesn't damage the crankshaft journals in the event of you scoring a journal on accident.

    If you spun a bearing you can throw your crankshaft in the garbage, it cannot be machined and even IF you had it machined you will end up with excessive clearance in the rod bearings. No bearing will help you here and no machine shop can cure it for you. Not even god. As for what you said about the bearing surface being flat, I think you mean't to say "smooth". If you have ever seen a rod bearing...well...you get the point by now.

    As for your theory on a 75 shot on an ls/v, please do not make statements of a false nature. Ls/vtec's can be sprayed without issues. Retain an 8k redline, run colder plugs and retard the timing according to your jet size (shot). With the proper tuning and sufficient fuel you will not detonate and the only thing left to worry about is the health of the engine, its build, break-in etc. If all is done correctly an ls/vtec can last quite some time without "blowing oil" behind the car as you drive.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2008
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