Arp rod studs

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If you spun a bearing you can throw your crankshaft in the garbage, it cannot be machined and even IF you had it machined you will end up with excessive clearance in the rod bearings. No bearing will help you here and no machine shop can cure it for you. Not even god. As for what you said about the bearing surface being flat, I think you mean't to say "smooth". If you have ever seen a rod bearing...well...you get the point by now.
wow i did not know this i thought you could knife edge the crank if that happend. i think my crank is fine the problem with the motor was a burnt valve.

You want to sleeve something sleeve the b20 and go bigger then 84mm
how the b18 and b20 blocks are the same but honda made a diffrent sleeve for the b20 because they were trying to get 84mm. i know with iron sleeves i can bore it out maybe 1mm but thats recommended for all motor not forced induction. sounds like the sleeve is getting really thin i know the sleeve will handle it but its not worh the risk.
 
I made 551whp on a sleeved gsr block and keeping the bore at 81.5mm. More displacement is good for torque but unless your goal is 600+ its not needed. You can make the power on the stock bore and have the assurance that your sleeves will hold.
 
If you spun a bearing you can throw your crankshaft in the garbage, it cannot be machined and even IF you had it machined you will end up with excessive clearance in the rod bearings. No bearing will help you here and no machine shop can cure it for you.

So, with a spun bearing is scrappin the crank the worst that could happen, or is that just a fact? theres not very much hope for cleanin a crank up and usin it with all new bearings?
 
So, with a spun bearing is scrappin the crank the worst that could happen, or is that just a fact? theres not very much hope for cleanin a crank up and usin it with all new bearings?

Nope. Facts are facts and theories are theories. :) In the event of a spun bearing, more than just the crankshaft journals can be damaged. A good inspection of the short block assembly would be in order. Also, you will need to replace the oil pump as well as a complete rebuild if the cylinder walls aren't damaged beyond machined clearances.
 
Lol, gotcha. Ya I knew it could damage the block also, but I didnt know that it would end the life of Honda crank. That came as a bit of a surprise to me since those little guys are so durable with big power numbers. It makes more sence to me now that I think about the factory coating on the journals tho. Thanks again.
 
You're going off a lot of half-truth and misinformation.

thats why i joined this site so i can talk to experienced people like you and learn more before doing so. i like to DIY and have watched engine builds and would like to learn proper ways of checking clearances and proper installing of bottom ends. i have done head work as head studs installing valves, springs, etc. i know sleeves, block guards, etc i will have to send out but i would like to learn the proper way to install my piston rings, check my bearings, etc. although Blanco we have miss understood each other earlier in this thread i respect you cause your a knowledgeable person.
 
wow i did not know this i thought you could knife edge the crank if that happend. i think my crank is fine the problem with the motor was a burnt valve.


how the b18 and b20 blocks are the same but honda made a diffrent sleeve for the b20 because they were trying to get 84mm. i know with iron sleeves i can bore it out maybe 1mm but thats recommended for all motor not forced induction. sounds like the sleeve is getting really thin i know the sleeve will handle it but its not worh the risk.

What the hell does knife edging have to do with bearing journals being scored by a spun rod bearing?

Don't bore your B20 if you plan on boosting.
 
i thought knife edging was a small cut and balance of the whole crank i didnt know it was just the counter weights.
 
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