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B16 Alternator clearance question

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by 88B164dr_baby, May 12, 2004.

  1. 88B164dr_baby

    88B164dr_baby Junior Member

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    probably been covered b4, but couldn't find anything on it. Anyway, my problem is that i just finished a B16 swap into my 88 DX and didn't realize until everything was in and hooked up that the alternater won't clear(or at least not enough to tighten the belt), from what i found I know i need to just bang out the inside of the driverside fender well to make space, but I'm having a little trouble w/ the engine in there. anybody have any tricks or suggestions? any help would be greatly appreciated. and oh yeah, one more thing, right when i start it up the idle surges a little(almost exactly as if it were a bad TPS) but after the engine warms up the idle goes back to normal. The check engine light isn't on, but i checked the ecu light (mine is a PW0) and it was showing a code 15, which after some research I found to be something to do w/ the ignition signal? but i dunno. like I said, it runs normal after warming up, and no check engine light. Any ideas? Thanks for any and all help, and especially for putting up w/ my Noobness :newbie:
     
  2. ef9civicgen4

    ef9civicgen4 Senior Member

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    you have to beat about a 4x4 inch dent into your front crossmember. it needs to be about 3/4 to and ince deep. its nothing that a few good shots with a sledge hammer wont fix. just hit it about were the alternator rubs/hits.

    as for the check engine lights, i have no clue, i know my car does a similar thing. but in my case, it gurgles until i tap the gas, then the check engine light come on, and it will idle as normal.

    my check engine lights were for a bad distributor, i think my codes were a 4, a 9, and an 11.
     
  3. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    Pull out the engine and bang it like there's no tomorrow :D

    edit: the fender wall, not the engine, although you can also bang the engine while its out too ;)
     
  4. 88B164dr_baby

    88B164dr_baby Junior Member

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    ok, sounds good, but say i live in apartment complex, which i do, and i don't have any buddys w/ cherry pickers or yards willing to let me take it back out again, which i don't. So, basically, seeing as how it'd be a BIG pain in the ass to take the shit back out again, is there any tricks to make it clear w/ the engine still in the car??(oh, and just in case your wondering, yes, i did do the swap myself, over a couple days, all after 1am at night using the support beam for the carport @ my apart ment complex, and a chain hoist. something I'd rather not reinact. sounds kinda stupid, but oh well, ya work w/ what ya got, and hey, it's in there and it works)
     
  5. Bl6CRX

    Bl6CRX Senior Member

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    no real need for those drastic labor hours, just remove the alternator and start hitting, also a shorter belt should help so it does not go as far back because, due to the angles, the farther back it is, the more it rubs, finally, if you can't bang it to death, use a dremel with a grinding bit and grind the shit out of it, thats how I finished mine up, if you really think you need more room try pulling a mount and dropping the motor down, hope it helps
     
  6. spaceman

    spaceman Member

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    shorter alternator belt...good luck
     
  7. PHOBIA

    PHOBIA Senior Member

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    i got the same problem.when the engine was put in it was dented just not enough.
    so what i plan on doing is getting a metal pipe with with a flat head and banging the shit outa it.its alot better than trying to swing a hammer with the motor in the way, or as suggested if i cant dent it anymore then im going at it with a die grinder and i am going to cut that fucker out. its rubbing so bad it has ground a half circle groove into the frame. just bang it with a pipe and sledge hammer,ahh good memories with the old sledge hammer :)
     
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