StocknSlow
New Member
Hey everyone, hoping I can get some help with my car, been having a couple issues and people telling me different things, so hopefully some knowledgeable people can lend some advice...
Okay, I bought a EF hatch w/ a OBD-0 B16 swap a few months ago. The car has some iffy wiring, but nothing that appeared immediately threatening. The only issue the car has had since I bought it was the car's idle fluctuates between 800 to 2k RPM (sometimes a lil higher or lower, but it always does it, hot or cold). The previous owner told me it was due to a faulty TPS, but I haven't replaced it yet. It was driving fine for several weeks (revving to over 8k, VTEC engaging around 5k, easy to drive, etc.), but was throwing a check engine light, even though it didn't appear to affect the car.
It was when I took off the VTEC solenoid to clean it the car started behaving differently. It is now harder to drive in low RPMs (under ~3k RPM when cruising, the car will kick back and forth), and VTEC has been acting up. At idle, there is a loud clicking coming from around the head, which sounds like the solenoid is switching on and off. The sound goes away as soon as the throttle is slightly opened. And when driving, there is either no audible VTEC switchover, or sometimes it is at varying points (for example: 3k, 4k, 6k, etc. RPM), but mostly there is no switchover.
Another thing I've noticed is that since taking off and putting back on the VTEC solenoid, the car now redlines at 6700 or 7500 RPM (most of the time it's at 7500). I have an aftermarket tach, but I believe it is accurate.
I found out something interesting the other day as well. When I first start the car, the check engine light does not come on until a few seconds later. The other day I pulled over on the highway and turned off and turned my car on again. I immediately pulled out and (before the check engine light came on) went WOT, and the car felt stronger, even though there is still no obvious VTEC engagement. It also will rev to 8k+ RPM again. But when I slow down (under 5k RPM) the light will come back on and is back to revving to only 7.5k...
I've been told some off my problems could be solved by replacing my TPS and VTEC solenoid, which I'm hoping will really help the car.
I'm throwing the following codes:
- O2 sensor "a"
- O2 sensor "b"
- Throttle position sensor
- IACV
- VTEC oil pressure switch
I've tried to include everything I know about the car. I'd REALLY appreciate any advice you guys have. Thanks in advance!!!
Okay, I bought a EF hatch w/ a OBD-0 B16 swap a few months ago. The car has some iffy wiring, but nothing that appeared immediately threatening. The only issue the car has had since I bought it was the car's idle fluctuates between 800 to 2k RPM (sometimes a lil higher or lower, but it always does it, hot or cold). The previous owner told me it was due to a faulty TPS, but I haven't replaced it yet. It was driving fine for several weeks (revving to over 8k, VTEC engaging around 5k, easy to drive, etc.), but was throwing a check engine light, even though it didn't appear to affect the car.
It was when I took off the VTEC solenoid to clean it the car started behaving differently. It is now harder to drive in low RPMs (under ~3k RPM when cruising, the car will kick back and forth), and VTEC has been acting up. At idle, there is a loud clicking coming from around the head, which sounds like the solenoid is switching on and off. The sound goes away as soon as the throttle is slightly opened. And when driving, there is either no audible VTEC switchover, or sometimes it is at varying points (for example: 3k, 4k, 6k, etc. RPM), but mostly there is no switchover.
Another thing I've noticed is that since taking off and putting back on the VTEC solenoid, the car now redlines at 6700 or 7500 RPM (most of the time it's at 7500). I have an aftermarket tach, but I believe it is accurate.
I found out something interesting the other day as well. When I first start the car, the check engine light does not come on until a few seconds later. The other day I pulled over on the highway and turned off and turned my car on again. I immediately pulled out and (before the check engine light came on) went WOT, and the car felt stronger, even though there is still no obvious VTEC engagement. It also will rev to 8k+ RPM again. But when I slow down (under 5k RPM) the light will come back on and is back to revving to only 7.5k...
I've been told some off my problems could be solved by replacing my TPS and VTEC solenoid, which I'm hoping will really help the car.
I'm throwing the following codes:
- O2 sensor "a"
- O2 sensor "b"
- Throttle position sensor
- IACV
- VTEC oil pressure switch
I've tried to include everything I know about the car. I'd REALLY appreciate any advice you guys have. Thanks in advance!!!
