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B16 Turbo Setup

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by slow_talon, Apr 12, 2007.

  1. slow_talon

    slow_talon New Member

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    Well right now i'm in the middle of my project...So to make a story short car is coming out of the paint shop this week, and i'm getting ready to the motor install .... so here are the specs,

    JDM Stock b16a2 shortblock

    JDM b16a2 Head
    Arp Headstuds
    Ferrera valves springs
    Titanium Retainers
    Type R cams
    Hondata Intake Gasket
    AEBS Intake Manifold

    Fuel
    880cc injectors
    Walbro 255lph fuel pump

    Turbo Setup
    Ramhorn Manifold
    3"dowpipe
    Precision SC-3431E
    Tial 38mm Wastegate 15psi spring
    FMIC with 2.5" piping and HKS bov

    Transmission
    B16a2 Tranny
    OBX LSD
    Exedy Stage 2 Clutch 3 puck cerametallic

    Tuning
    Neptune
    LC-1 Wideband
    GM 3 Bar map sensor

    This is going on a 2dr 97 civic coupe only hoping for 350whp or some 11 sec et's down the quarter mile...LMK what you guys think of the setup and also what do you think about the Exedy Stage 2 clutch 3 puck cerametallic??
     
  2. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    Without a built bottom end I dont think that horsepower goal is realistic if you are expecting it to last! You might want to consider at least some new rods and pistons. Your injectors are also a little big for your horsepower goals. I wouldnt go any more then 8 pounds of boost on the stock motor. That will get you in the 200's as far as whp, but still far from your goal. The cerametallic clutch doesnt really like street driving but it can hold alot of horsepower. It engages harshly and if you try to ride it to take off smoothly it will destroy the clutch. Just a little heads up.
     
  3. slow_talon

    slow_talon New Member

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    hmm.. have seen a couple of setup that have gone over the 300whp mark, I had a built d16z6 and was putting down 280whp I just want to go over the 300 hp mark and I think its pretty realistic for this motor to hold 300hp but their again tune must be almost perfect, If its not tune by me I think i'll just take it to stoopidfast and go from there....
     
  4. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    I dont care what you do with it. Its not my engine thats going to blow up. Tunning is very important but cast pistons and factory rods are not designed for that kind of power. I dont care who says they have put that kind of power down with factory internals. How long do you think it really lasted them? Those were just my suggestions, take them with a grain of salt if you like! I just believe in doing things right the first time.
     
  5. bistec

    bistec Project EH23

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    Listen to boostin4fun unless you want to go over 300 whp (if you ever get there before the engine blows) for 10min and then to 0whp for a long time:D . He knows what he's talking about. If 300 whp on stock internal was realistic and a good setup , nobody would loss time and money rebuilding bottem end of engines. Don't you think? You know what he's talking about , don't try cutting the corner.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2007
  6. slow_talon

    slow_talon New Member

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    nah don't get me wrong I appreciated you advise I was just saying that It should be possible to handle 300hp for a while isn't it?? but oh well who knows, we'll try it and then you can say I told you so...LOL:D
     
  7. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    I dont believe it can handle the power, my friend had his ls boosted to 230 whp with factory internals and it bent a rod 7000 miles later. We were only reving it out to factory redline of 7200 rpms. It was tuned well and actually on the rich side about 11.5 AFR's. Think of the abuse your engine will see turning up to 8200 rpms. Its really a gamble you should leave the boost down untill you can afford to build up the bottom end. Then you dont risk putting a rod threw the block and have nothing salvagable from you setup other then the head. B series stuff is getting harder to come by and im sure you know already that its not cheap by any means.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2007
  8. slow_talon

    slow_talon New Member

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    yeah I know b-series parts are getting expensive but the worst part is that the parts have gone up on the price...but oh well I think you are right i might as well order some crower rods, and wiseco pistons I'm thinking of 9.0:1 compression what do you think?? also do you think i'll need a blockguard?
     
  9. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    Yeah the price of parts really does suck. I wouldnt get a block gard I believe they are junk and just block cooling and create hot spots. When I am going to push a block hard I have it sleeved. But you should be ok. As far as rods crowers are good but so are eagles. I use eagles alot because they are inexpensive and can handle quite a bit of power. 9:1 would be perfect for compression that is what I always go with on a turbocharged engine. Wiseco pistons are good so are CP and JE. Anyone of them will be suitable for your horsepower goals. Go with honda OEM parts for bearings, seals, gasket, and pumps. They work the best and are the most reliable. You are doing the smart thing by building your bottom end. With the built bottom end 300 plus whp is very attainable and reliable. Good luck. ;)
     
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