B16A TPS goin out?? HELP!!

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Thanks for the tip. I thought the IACV and fast idle valve wouldn't affect it. I figured they only affected idle.

16 degrees is stock.....right? Jump the plug under the glovebox with a paper clip but which plug?? I have two. The small one or the big one??? Or maybe someone can tell me Wire Colors??
 
true, the timing could be off but usually your car would die at times if it was that bad off.
and he is talking about the mechanical timing, not ignition timing.
 
He's talking about the timimng between the gear and crank...liek the timing belt is mis-installed? I'm good to go on that end for sure. Belt is tight and all marks line up when #1 is TDC

I'm hoping its the TPS. Now if I do have a bad TPS...I can get it off (its a star shaped head for the bolts) but re-installing...I read that I need to allign it so its .45v and thats at idle....correct? So install it hand tight and then I check it with the multimeter. When I have .45v (read .47v somewhere too) then I can tighten it down. Is that correct?
 
Green wire is ground and red wire is the one that flucuates. Sorry just getting this back to the top.
 
yea... .45v is perfect for idle.
I would use new small bolts instead of reusing the ones it came with from factory.
 
Well.....I advanced my time just by a little math I found on the internet. I figure a millimeter is roughly a degree.

I got it warmed up good and then turned it off. I jumped the service plug under the glove box and started it back up. I let it sit and then turned it towards the firewall about 2mm.

I took it out and it feels better for sure. Sadly, I don't have a timing gun

So I just took it out and ran it at high rpm (about 6500 rpm in first) No pinging and I have 91 octane in it (best I could find but its SHELL).

So I figure I'm good until I can get a gun and see what degree its at. I figure around 17-18 degrees is about right but I don't see a mark on the crank pulley. I turned it off and unplugged the jumper. (I heard resetting the ECU for this isn't needed)

My LS had a mark done by a friend at TDC but this one is blank. I read that there's 3 marks in different colors but i don't see. Is it there under the gun's light?

Anyways....I think its fine but was wondering if anyone could tell me how to read the light. Sorry to seem like an idiot about it but I've always had someone to do it for me. They all moved and got old (like me).
 
The timing marks are tiny little notches in the pulley edge, they can be very hard to see , climb under the car and turn over the engine by hand with a 17mm socket whilst you run your finger nail around the edge of the pulley, when you find them the one on its own will be the TDC mark and the three together (about 3/4inch away from the TDC one) will be your timing marks. When you find them put a bit of liquid paper on them then it will be easy to see with the timing light.
 
I still feel a little hesitation when I rev the motor.

It has a drum roll sound (like a flutter) and then rev's normal all the way up the rpm range.

I can't check the TPS until Friday night when I can get a hold of a multimeter.

Guy who sold me the motor (JR auto parts) said that they NEVER go out (don't know about that).

I actually hope its malfunctioning because it will be an inexpensive fix.
 
But all in all...the advancing of the timing hleped. I ran it in first gear around 6500 rpm's through an underpass and stuck our heads out the window...no pinging. And the powerband feels a lot better. I wonder if it just needs to be advanced more? But I don't have a gun (hopefully Kragen or Autozone will let me use theirs this weekend).

Once I have a gun to use....I plan on getting it around 18 degress.

I hope its at like 15 degrees or less and needs to be advanced more.

THIS is actually the best outcome because it wont cost anything to fix :-D

And some more pep out of my b16

Thanks to all that have helped thus far
 
I check the TPS sensor. It read .495 at idle and didn't go much over 1.3 when I rev'd it. I'm not sure if I had the pos and neg of the multimeter pinched into the wires but it seemed to be when I was getting a .495 at idle.

Any advise?? I have an LS throttle body (heard its the same throttle body for every B-series motor)
 
YES I am.....no so stupid of a question.

Here's a stupid question.....do you think that could be a reason for this hesitation/miss I fel at times?

And if anyone can help....I checked the timing with a regular timing gun (non-adjustable) and the line I found was about 'eleven o'clock' when light flashed.

I looked in the helm's manual for integras and that seemed to be the correct spot (based on a diagram I looked at) but not sure if thats right with the type of gun I used or if that's for an adjustable gun....?
 
weird but motor didn't 'drumroll' like it usually does when I rev'd it this morning.

Maybe because it was still a little cold (been running for 2 minutes)
 
CAFROG said:
I check the TPS sensor. It read .495 at idle and didn't go much over 1.3 when I rev'd it. I'm not sure if I had the pos and neg of the multimeter pinched into the wires but it seemed to be when I was getting a .495 at idle.

Any advise?? I have an LS throttle body (heard its the same throttle body for every B-series motor)
Click to expand...

when you check the tps voltage... make sure that the multimeter is set to the right deicmal place so you get the right reading (looks like you were) and do not turn the actual motor on, just turn the key on.
so then you can fully open the throttle plate and check to see if the voltage goes up to 5v when you are at WOT.
 
Oh....duh....no motor running lol. I had a hard time making it connect a the plug so I connected at the harness plug on the shock tower. (just used same colors that were off the sensor plug)
 
it can definitely be contributing to the "lag" feeling going off the line, its a known problem with anyone that has a lightened flywheel. especially when its more than half the weight of an oem fly wheel.

Also when you rev up the revs will drop lower than idle and then pop back up, reason because of the momentum is lost so suddenly , (all physics).

i have a 11pounder in mine and i had that issue but im getting use to driving with it.
 
Dang it...makes sense...I've never had a lightened flywheel. It does whind up quick though.
 
BLADE699 said:
Also when you rev up the revs will drop lower than idle and then pop back up, reason because of the momentum is lost so suddenly , (all physics).
Click to expand...

Meant when you rev up and let go the accelerator, the revs drop really fast, and drops a bit below idle, enough to bog the car, or even stall it.

Benefits would be

- Good for rev matching

- Road course racing/auto-x

anything where you would be spending most of your time in high RPMS.

But if your doing a lot of stop and go driving, it will suck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top