b18 into ef hatch now car will not start HELP!!!

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turbozcteg

Junior Member
i recently dropped in a b18 into my hatch and hooked everything up, wired to mpfi from dpfi, everything is in and looks good fist with no probs........

after alls said and done and i go to start it it only turnsover
i have fuel, spark and compression and timing...all good

so why is it not starting
is there something i looked over or didnt hook up right
please if any one has had this problem b4 let me know what it is cause i want my car running


if you need info pm me or my email is turbozcteg@yahoo.com

thanks guys

~jacob
 
First, define timing?

Second, are you sure youre getting fuel?

Third, are you sure you wired the MPFI right?

Lastly, check to make sure the ignition timing is correct. Get a timing light...

Good luck!
 
ok on the timing i set the gears and crank where they should be and put the belt on , and how exactly would i go about checking the ignition timing i have access to a timing light thats not a problem

and im sure the mpfi was wired up right

and actually i think im getting too much fuel
 
Have you checked fuel at the injectors? Are the injectors firing?

Get the timing light and a book on the cars engine, then proceed to check timing.

Are the plug wires in the right order? Are they fairly new?

Hows the distributor? Cap, rotor, igniter?

Are you by chance throwing a check engine light?
 
ok ill answer as much as i can here,

the engine is freshly rebuilt meaning zero miles on it

comp is 195 across the board so no leaks

cap, roto,r wires& plugs all new
the injectors are all firing

havent got to do the timing yet

but as far as i can tell its ok

the correct firing order is 1432 right
 
make sure you have the ground wire at the thermostat housing securely attached - it is the ground for the ECU and most of the sensors
 
Get the timing light and a book on the cars engine, then proceed to check timing.

you can't really use a light unless the motor is running

when you turn the key on, does the CEL stay on?
 
yeah when the key is in the on position the CEL stays on no flashing of codes or anything
 
If your CEL is on and staying on, there is something wrong with your ecu. It should go on for a few seconds when you turn the key to the on position, then should go out. Try swapping a good pr4 ecu into your car and see if that is the problem.

As for ignition timing, you can use a timing light on the engine if it is already running - if the timing is correct, engine running, if you flash the timing light down on the crank, it will light up the middle of three white bars indented and painted on the crankshaft pulley. If it's not running, and you suspect ignition timing may be your problem.you can check it; start by setting the engine to TDC. pull the cap off the distributor and locate where the leading edge of the rotor electrode is at- note it's position, i.e. 1oclock, 2 oclock, etc, or degrees, however you want to do it. Look in the rotor and note the same postion of the No. 1 Cylinder electrode going to the spark plug. They should line up pretty close. Ignition timing at idle is around 16 degrees, a small increment, so the electrodes should be pretty close. If you are too far off, the car will either not start, or will start and idle high or low, depending on how much advance or retard is on the timing. Hope this helps.

But you definitely should not have a solid CEL.
 
ok it is a obd-0 pr4 ecu and the cel on the dash from what i was told will stay on nomatter what because of the wiring conversion

and to the last persons comment
on my crank there is one white mark and one red mark not 3 white marks could this be my problem because my crank is out of position
i lined up the white mark with the notch and same with the cams lined em up so the arrows are up and the marks all line up across with a ruler

i messed with the firing order this morning and is sounds like it wants to start i get little hiccups every now and then when turning over and i went back to check the wiring and everything is ok as far as i can tell

so what now
 
OBD0 PR4 ECUs - manual trans
37820-PR4-A10 or L10 or A60

OBD1 PR4 ECUs - manual trans
37820-PR4-A11 or L11 or L61
 
odb1 i imagine? anyway try to check your grounds. engine,tranny and thermostat housing. check your fuses. always chek your minor things before you start buying or tearing things apart. Iknow from experience ;P
 
Thermo ground is good... he has spark. No thermo ground = no spark.

If you have spark, fuel, ect. then your car should be running or at least starting to fire.
The only thing I can tell you is that maybe you are 180 degrees off in your timing some where...
Make sure the dizzy is setup up properly and make sure that the timing marks line up. If all else
fails reset everything to TDC and go from there.
 
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your OBD0 ecu should have a little window with an LED that will flash codes...
find out what its telling you is wrong...
best bet is to fix the error and then try and start it...

you don't need crank marks to check your firing timing
pull plug #1 and put your hand/finger over the hole
turn the crank until you feel the compression stroke
put a screwdriver in the hole and turn the crank till #1 piston is at the top of its stroke, then check your distributor to make sure you're pointing at #1
 
reckedracing said:
your OBD0 ecu should have a little window with an LED that will flash codes...
find out what its telling you is wrong...
best bet is to fix the error and then try and start it...

thats why i'm assuming hes obd 1. he would have let us know the light was blinking by now.

see if you can get any codes to flash first.. how the plugs look? are they full of gas?
 
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