Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by psychochicken, Jan 14, 2004.
Going into a 88 civic hatch... 88 B18A1
Want to add vtec...
2. Read the FAQ
3. Once you know what you need to know go buy a vtec head, and go to work.
hint: look up "LSVTEC"
Here is the info you want.
Thanks for the link...
It says the ls block oil pump sucks... while i have the block apart.. (straight LS for now) shold I upgrade the oil pump to something else?
yes, the LS pump sucks, change it.
what do i change it to?
here you go i'll help you out even more. thanks Tdaddy for the wonderful linkand thanks hs for the info and thanks to my brain for being able to click the link
Ls/vtec is the mating of the B18A/B to a B-series Vtec head like the B18C1, B18C5, B17A or B16A head. The amazing part about this swap is that the Ls blocks did not come with Vtec so there are a few mods you need to know to do the swap right.
A. GENERAL INFORMATION
1. The Down Side. The B18a/b has a low r/s ratio 1.53 which is not bad compared to the 1.58 of a gsr. The b18a/b was not made to rev over 7000 r.p.m's so it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, rods, oil and water pumps, and piston valve reliefâ€™s. You can fix all these problems, as you can install vtec block oil squirters for lubricating the rods and piston. This helps to save the pistons, rods and bearings at high rpm's. You can install ARP rod bolts. And get upgraded rods or shot-peined. Also some vtec pistons are recommended.
2. Oil lines. The Ls block does not have a Vtec oil passage (you need this hole to produce the oil pressure to lock the vtec lobes rocker arm) so you will need to tap the hole on the head or weld it shut. When threading it shut use a 1/8ntp fitting. Its best to have a machine shop thread it for the 1/8th fitting and then just screw it in. Next you have to make an external line from the oil pressure sender to the head. Use a 4an to 3/8th ntp plug on the head to a steal braided line to tee'd of to the oil pressure sender hole. You will need a 1/8th tee fitting, a 1/8th to 3/4th's fitting for the line to the tee, a 1/8th to 1/8th adapter to plug the block, and plug the oil pressure sender in the back of the tee. So it will look like this (the T will be used as the tee fitting) 18th to 1/8th adapter T oil pressure sender sensor oil line to head. A suggestion is to have the tee fitting so it is not directly on the block (especially if you are installing an oil pressure gauge) as it can literally crack the threads and you will shoot oil everywhere. So try to run ss lines to someplace that can support the weight.
3. You will use the Ls head gasket.
4. Dowel pins: The head needs to be modified for the dowel pins to fit. You have to move and re-drill the dowel pins to be able to fit the head. On the intake side right below where you put the 1/8pipe fitting that plugs the vtec oil passage, you will drill and install one of the dowel pins and do the same on the other side at the exact same point.
5. Timing belt. You will use the Ls timing belt if you use the Ls water pump and the gsr if you use a vtec B17/16 or B18c1/5.
6. Head studs. You will use the vtec head studs for the ls/vtec set-up. I suggest ARP if you want to spend the money.
7. Oil Pump. The oil pumps on the ls's suck so you might want to upgrade to a vtec one or a b20 as they are same part number as the gsr.
8. Heads. There are many heads you can use and there are little differences between them.
First off there is the GSR head which give you a higher compression than the other b-series heads because of its 41.6cc combustion chamber. The smaller combustion chamber makes .2 more compression. Then there is the b16/17a head which are the same the only difference is that the b17a has a p61 stamped on the back of the intake manifold the b16/17a head is a better flowing head 5.25% in fact and a larger combustion chamber 42.7cc's. Then there is the type r which flows even better than the b16a head and has the same combustion chamber. To put this in perspective the b18a/b has a 45cc combustion chamber.
9. GSR Block Girdle. You can use the GSR block girdle on the ls. This will reinforce the bottom end and keep the moving parts in its place. All you need to get is the 3 main caps in the middle, bolts, windage, oil pan and oil pick.
10. Pistons. You can use any b-series vtec piston in your ls block. Any 1.6 b-series piston will be raised by about one full point in the ls block like the b16a(pr3 pistons will raise it from the stock 10.2 comp in the b16a to 11.2ish in the ls block so keep this in mind when building the ls block. Also keep in mind about the combustion chamber size (See heads) when building the motor. . With a GSR, add .2 comp to the stock ratio. (Warning: these are all estimates: they could be off a little).
B16a head and pr3 pistons 11.2
B16a head and p30 pistons 11.4
B16a head and p72 (ao) pistons 9.9
B16a head and p72 (00) pistons 10.5
B16a head and p73 (ao) pistons 10.7
B16a head and p73 (00) pistons 11.2
B16a head and p61 pistons 10.4
B16a head and pct (CTR) pistons 12.2-3ish
B16a head and pr4 pistons 9.5
Add .2 to all to calculate the GSR head with all of these.
Type r and b17a heads have the same combustion chamber so calculates the same.
11. Conclusion. This information should help you get an idea of what it takes to build an LS/VTEC motor. As always, please, if you donâ€™t know what you are doing, call a mechanic who can help you with anything. Hondaswap.com and the author of this article are not responsible for any damage you do to your car by reading this article.
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I got that part.. but what is the oil pump out of.. year/make...
it says vtec model.. so a ? what model/year...
Just get one for a 94+ Integra GSR or 92-93 Gsr or 99-00 civic Si....some others but any of those will work.
Separate names with a comma.