get the blanks (replacement rotors)
i drive very agressively on the street as well as autocross and track my car and this is the setup i run:
Brembo blank rotors
Hawk HP+ pads
Goodridge lines
ATE super blue fluid
this setup has stood up to 2 and a half years of abuse so far
i have neve had these fade on me
and thats with long drives at high speeds on very twisty roads, track sessions where i am slowing from 120 mph to 60 or so repeatedly for 30 min slamming on the brakes to slow from 150 to 70ish, 60-0 stops after an autoX run, several runs over RT17 in VT
... basicly im about as hard on my brakes as can be
cross drilled rotors are pointless unless the rotors you are running are fucking HUGE
the drilling does not aid in cooling at all... but it does reduce the friction surface... and that reduces braking ability
the only thing cross drilling is good for is looking "cool" and reducing weight
slotting on the other hand does do SOMETHING... it shaves the pads to reduce the effects of glazeing and ensure a consistant pad surface... glazing was a problem years ago when pads only came in shitty materials and compositions... today you can get GOOD pads that do not glaze even under very hard driving thus making slots virtually worthless
and the thing about pads "gasing out" also doesnt happen any more... this was a problem when people were running shitty organic pads
the big thing that is far too often overlooked is fluid... your fluid should be changed at least every 2 years... and im talking a full system flush
brake fluid over time absorbs water (that is why they have dry boil temps and wet boil temps)
the more water that the fluid absorbs the lower the boil temp gets
if the fluid starts to boil you now have air pockets in your brake line
this is what will cause a spongy pedal or a total lack of brakes while driving hard