From what I have been reading and told so to get sloted rotors and get the Brembo brand. ANy suggestions? THanks
you dont need slotted rotors. they make it so there is less brake surface. yea its for cooling the brakes, but do you drive THAT hard and brake THAT hard all the time. id say get some brembo blanks.
cross drilling and slotting does close to nothing for cooling both make the rotor have less surface area less surface area means less friction less friction means less brakeing force less braking force means your ass isnt stopping as fast etc etc etc cross drilling really only helps with weight.... less weight less rotational mass.... similar effect to lighter rims (not quite as profound due to being closer to the center axis point).... and with old school shitty composition pads that use to produce gasses under hard braking temperatures by givving the gas somewhere to collect instead of causing the pad to "float" over the rotor on the gas pocket slotted rotors are also designed for the same old school shitty pads... the slots gives the gasses an escape route off the surface of the rotor.... old school shitty rotors also glaze easily under high stress braking... so the slots form edges that scrape the glaze off the surrface of the pad unless you are running shit ass pads there is no reason to worry about glaze or gasses any more (pad composition has greatly improved)... and unless the rotors you are running are just fucking HUGE you dont need cross drilling to cut weight basicly get blank rotors, some good pads, run good high temp brake fluid and you will be fine
its not always about NEED I have a pair of Brembo slotted/drilled rotors, hi-temp fluid, and shitty pads. If the rotors hadn't been so cheap (eBay), I'd have gone w/ Autozone blanks due to the fact you only have to pay for them once. When you f&^$ 'em up, you take 'em back for a new pair for FREE. Biggest dif in braking was the fluid. I completely drained, then bled the brakes w/ Valvoline Synpower. Same with the clutch but that was just cause I have never changed the fluid & had some left over. race track performance = slotted street performance = blanks value = autozone blanks looks = cross drilled
im just gunna quote myself here how many times am i going to have to say the same fucking thing before people start understanding???????????????
With repeated HEAVY braking you do at track days you need something more than blanks unless you want to change your rotors before you leave. Slotted still has a lot of surface and doesn't have the tendancy to crack like drilled. For 90% of the folks on this forum, slotted and/or x-drilled is for show, not go.
ok ill go with you on this one .... what exactly do you need slotted rotors for???? ive been running road course all summer at limerock, watkins glen, and NHIS, along with numerous AutoX events and LOTS of VERY hard driving on: Brembo Blank rotors Hawk HP+ pads ATE super blue fluid Goodridge SS lines i drive to the track with those brakes i beat the hell out of them on the track all day i drive home on them i drive around semi daily on them i have had the EXACT same shit on my car since i started the season in march my pads still look almost new my rotors are not warped, cracked, grooved, etc my brakes have NEVER faded maybe thats why YOU need slotted rotors.... get some good pads and you wont need to waste the extra money
well just to anser the question... brembo's are good but there are other brands such as wilwood, powerslot just to name a few... i couldnt tell you witch is better cause i've been pretty biased towards brembo cause of the name...
if your worried about rotor wear why not get them frozen???? cryogenically.....i did that to mine and there ten times stronger and then havent warped yet.....yeah the sqeal like a MF'r but no warpage and no grooves.....ill look up mor info on it.. for you guys
what you can do to even improve the strength of the rotor even more after the deep freeze would be to put them thru a proper heat treat cycle. The only problem is most manufactures don't tell you want material the rotors are anyway. each alloy has a different heat treat cycle that works best. We do a very similar type of heat treat with our products at work not so much as to change the strenth of the material but it improves overall hysteresis and non-linearity. but it's also usful for using an inexpensive T2026-6 aluminium that's easy to machine and changes it's properties to T351
