brockster99
Junior Member
From what I have been reading and told so to get sloted rotors and get the Brembo brand. ANy suggestions? THanks
Brembo?
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Seany-izzle
Member
you dont need slotted rotors. they make it so there is less brake surface. yea its for cooling the brakes, but do you drive THAT hard and brake THAT hard all the time. id say get some brembo blanks.
cross drilling and slotting does close to nothing for cooling
both make the rotor have less surface area
less surface area means less friction
less friction means less brakeing force
less braking force means your ass isnt stopping as fast
etc etc etc
cross drilling really only helps with weight.... less weight less rotational mass.... similar effect to lighter rims (not quite as profound due to being closer to the center axis point).... and with old school shitty composition pads that use to produce gasses under hard braking temperatures by givving the gas somewhere to collect instead of causing the pad to "float" over the rotor on the gas pocket
slotted rotors are also designed for the same old school shitty pads... the slots gives the gasses an escape route off the surface of the rotor.... old school shitty rotors also glaze easily under high stress braking... so the slots form edges that scrape the glaze off the surrface of the pad
unless you are running shit ass pads there is no reason to worry about glaze or gasses any more (pad composition has greatly improved)... and unless the rotors you are running are just fucking HUGE you dont need cross drilling to cut weight
basicly get blank rotors, some good pads, run good high temp brake fluid and you will be fine
both make the rotor have less surface area
less surface area means less friction
less friction means less brakeing force
less braking force means your ass isnt stopping as fast
etc etc etc
cross drilling really only helps with weight.... less weight less rotational mass.... similar effect to lighter rims (not quite as profound due to being closer to the center axis point).... and with old school shitty composition pads that use to produce gasses under hard braking temperatures by givving the gas somewhere to collect instead of causing the pad to "float" over the rotor on the gas pocket
slotted rotors are also designed for the same old school shitty pads... the slots gives the gasses an escape route off the surface of the rotor.... old school shitty rotors also glaze easily under high stress braking... so the slots form edges that scrape the glaze off the surrface of the pad
unless you are running shit ass pads there is no reason to worry about glaze or gasses any more (pad composition has greatly improved)... and unless the rotors you are running are just fucking HUGE you dont need cross drilling to cut weight
basicly get blank rotors, some good pads, run good high temp brake fluid and you will be fine
its not always about NEED
I have a pair of Brembo slotted/drilled rotors, hi-temp fluid, and shitty pads. If the rotors hadn't been so cheap (eBay), I'd have gone w/ Autozone blanks due to the fact you only have to pay for them once. When you f&^$ 'em up, you take 'em back for a new pair for FREE.
Biggest dif in braking was the fluid. I completely drained, then bled the brakes w/ Valvoline Synpower. Same with the clutch but that was just cause I have never changed the fluid & had some left over.
race track performance = slotted
street performance = blanks
value = autozone blanks
looks = cross drilled
hcivic.com
Senior Member
oce again you dont need sloted rottor only if your using shity pads
With repeated HEAVY braking you do at track days you need something more than blanks unless you want to change your rotors before you leave. Slotted still has a lot of surface and doesn't have the tendancy to crack like drilled.
For 90% of the folks on this forum, slotted and/or x-drilled is for show, not go.
For 90% of the folks on this forum, slotted and/or x-drilled is for show, not go.
omega11855
Senior Member
it aint for go either 
its fo stopage(i know i know) lol
its fo stopage(i know i know) lol
ok ill go with you on this one .... what exactly do you need slotted rotors for????
ive been running road course all summer at limerock, watkins glen, and NHIS, along with numerous AutoX events and LOTS of VERY hard driving on:
Brembo Blank rotors
Hawk HP+ pads
ATE super blue fluid
Goodridge SS lines
i drive to the track with those brakes
i beat the hell out of them on the track all day
i drive home on them
i drive around semi daily on them
i have had the EXACT same shit on my car since i started the season in march
my pads still look almost new
my rotors are not warped, cracked, grooved, etc
my brakes have NEVER faded
maybe thats why YOU need slotted rotors.... get some good pads and you wont need to waste the extra money
ive been running road course all summer at limerock, watkins glen, and NHIS, along with numerous AutoX events and LOTS of VERY hard driving on:
Brembo Blank rotors
Hawk HP+ pads
ATE super blue fluid
Goodridge SS lines
i drive to the track with those brakes
i beat the hell out of them on the track all day
i drive home on them
i drive around semi daily on them
i have had the EXACT same shit on my car since i started the season in march
my pads still look almost new
my rotors are not warped, cracked, grooved, etc
my brakes have NEVER faded
maybe thats why YOU need slotted rotors.... get some good pads and you wont need to waste the extra money
2 litre EG
Senior Member
well just to anser the question... brembo's are good but there are other brands such as wilwood, powerslot just to name a few...
i couldnt tell you witch is better cause i've been pretty biased towards brembo cause of the name...
i couldnt tell you witch is better cause i've been pretty biased towards brembo cause of the name...
hcivic.com
Senior Member
um i have use cheap rotor and when they do get groved you can machine them once or twice
what you can do to even improve the strength of the rotor even more after the deep freeze would be to put them thru a proper heat treat cycle. The only problem is most manufactures don't tell you want material the rotors are anyway. each alloy has a different heat treat cycle that works best.
We do a very similar type of heat treat with our products at work not so much as to change the strenth of the material but it improves overall hysteresis and non-linearity.
but it's also usful for using an inexpensive T2026-6 aluminium that's easy to machine and changes it's properties to T351
