Building D16z6 for small turbo

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carma42

Junior Member
I have a D16z6 i need to rebuild for a cracked piston skirt the local speed shop told me. i am wanting to know if i do wiseco piston kit(keeping 8.8-1 compression), eagle rods/stock berrings, and a crower valve spring/retainer combo if i need to replace my stock valves, crank, and a port and polish job? that was probly a run-on sentence... i would like to avoid the port and polish, crank, and valves to conserver money to put a T3/T4 turbo with a small amount of boost, like 8-10 psi. i am not sure if the port and polish and valves is necessary. i have spent about a week looking at the boards to get answers and these are the questions about my motor i cannot find answers to. thank you for any help.
 
Well better than anything you mentioned so far would be to fix your compression 8.8 + small turbo = a slow time. On a small turbo I would do between 9.5 -10. You are also spending a lot of money on parts that aren't necessary or very useful. That money could better be spent on quality turbo parts, ems, and tuning.
 
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Feb 2 2005, 10:04 PM
Well better than anything you mentioned so far would be to fix your compression 8.8 + small turbo = a slow time. On a small turbo I would do between 9.5 -10
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That is the kinda help i need. thank you. keep it comin. you all are the only ones who can help i know in such a small town.. :worthy:
 
yes on the pistons...... at least freshen up the head (new seals) and buy a more aggressive cam/springs kit, water/oil pump, engine gasket set and crank kit.....
take it to a (import) machine shop and youre set ..
you have to run engine management like uberdata, hondata....

it seems to me like you want to keep it simple/reliable with a little boost...... for a turbo kit just make youre own kit.....go here http://www.homemadeturbo.com/
 
That is good to know. none of the other i need then? by the way, the only thing i left out the car ran extremely hard up until the cracked piston. But i also have 167,000 miles overall on the engine and car. if that changes anything let me know. thanks so far.
 
Mileage changes two things: you need a new timing belt and a new water pump but that's really it
 
Ok. can i buy the cheaper Wiseco piston kit to save on money and have a local machineist mill the head to bring compression up to 9.8-1 or so compression? Will there be any clearance issues on that idea, or problems?
 
You shouldn't need to mill your head to raise your comp. The right pistons should do it. Look here too.

IB ownz
 
PS I will pm you my turbo list tomorrow. I am also working on a turbo build, and i have a checklist that would really help you.
 
Ok. then can i boost more to compensate for the compression that i already have picked out and have money for? 10-15 psi. i know i will need more fuel then, but i can deal with that already. or maybe a link to some pistons strong enough to handle it that are the whole deal.. rings, circlips, wrist pins, and pistons of course.
 
You really kill the potential hp by have a low compression. But you can recoupe some of that by having a higher psi.
 
i definately believe, but i was just always told... low compression for turbo applications. what kinda power can i expect out of that setup? from the stock 125hp and 105 lbft of torque. maybe 100 hp and 75 lbft of torque??? just guessing by the way i am just goin off of forum numbers i have come across. if those numbers are even close with what i have picked out that would be fine.
 
Here is a checklist to go by. In my OPINION this is the mininual stuff you need to have a small successful custom turbo kit. If I mentioned brands for an item its important to get a brand name item. Skipping on that would really hurt your power, but bear in mind there are more good brands than what I mentioned that is just what I have encoutered. What you should spend on each part is in ( ) .

TURBO PARTS:::
Intercooler (200 - 400) - PWR, Greddy, Drag, Speaco, Tyan, HKS
Intercooler Piping (100 - 200)
Intercooler Piping Couplers (25 - 75)
Air Filter (50 - 75) K&N accept nothing else
Turbo (100 - 400) Garrett, Mits., Turbotechnics, Stock turbo from a car
Turbo Oil Lines (50 - 125)
Waste Gate (100 - 200) Tial they are the best
Turbo Manifold (200 - 400) avoid: ebay no names, and drag
Blow Off Valve (50 -200) I recommend a first gen dsm bov, or name brand
Fuel Injectors (50 - 80) DSM 450cc blue or black tops
Resistor Box (15 - 30) it must be from a 88-91 honda
Uberdata (175 - 250) this is for the programmer and parts the app. is free
Intank Fuel Pump (75 - 100) Walboro 255 intank pump or Holley 255 intank pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator (50 - 100) B&M, AEM, STR, or others

NECESSARY ENGINE PARTS:::
Water Pump 75
Timing Belt 50

OPTIONAL PARTS:::
Fuel Filter (15 - 40)
Adjustable Cam gears (100 - 200)
Piston Rings (50 - 100)
Head Gasket (40 - 85)
ARP Rod Bolts (85 - 125)
ARP Head Studs (85 - 150)
Clutch (250 - 400)
Oil Pressure Gauge (30 - 70)
EGT Gauge (75 - 150)
PSI Gauge (30 - 75)
Crank Bolt (15 - 30)
Traction Bar (300 - 400)
Poly Motor Mount Inserts (50 - 100)
 
Guys if you feel I missed or forgot anything let me know and I will alter the list. Tada as promised a guide for ya
 
you're doing this for horsepower right?
a port and polish will greatly improve the effeciency of the head, thereby creating more power for you... i would advise it, if you don't wanna pay then get a dremel and port and polish kit and read on how to do it yourself...

same shit with the valves
valves seal in all that compression you're building with the turbo...
i think the stock ones are ok but at least get the valves relapped...
you can also do this yourself with a 5 dollar lapping tool and lapping compound, then time and patience...

if you're gonna have the motor apart you should really do these things since you're dumping so much money into it...

and def get new valve seals, they're cheap
 
napa baby
or autozone cause napa sucks balllllllzzzzzzzz

napa had the lapper for 5 bucks, it consisted of a fucking stick with a suction cup on each end... the principal is that you smear the valve SEAT with the lapping compound, then you put the suction cup on the flat surface of the valve and go back and forth indian fire making style...

i have put a drill on the stem end of the valve, but i would NOT ADVISE IT
doing it by hand takes time and patience, but it is WELL worth it...

i had a xr250 head that had pieces of piston mashed into it, wire brushed the chunks out and then lapped it to damn near perfection, went from have 33.5 pounds of compression to approx 115-120 just by doing the lapping in my spare time in my living room...

as far as info, search, or google...
i think honda tuning had a DIY port and polish article...
and i'm sure you will find others, the theory is very simple, but there are some important things you need to know, like leaving the intake side a bit rough so there is air turbulance to properly mix the fuel in the air...

for the p and p kit go to google and type PORT AND POLISH KIT
there are 2 that come up right off the bat both for 40 bucks...
p and p kit is the rolled sandpaper, makes P&P very easy...

and if you like motors its a blast to do your own work...
 
This is all great information but i am not the one taking the motor apart or putting it back together. the speed shop is doing it i am just wondering what to tell them to do. i am not going for a ton of horsepower maybe about 250 hp. the DIY port and polish could help.
 
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