i would say to save your money.
My recommendation would be to go with what i have or similar (spring rates). 450 front 600 rear. If you're going to do coilovers, don't waste your money until you can afford struts to match your spring rates (double-valve your struts for anything past 475-ish to avoid wearing them out prematurely) and to get your chassis corner-weighted, with you in the car, and an alignment (0 degrees toe, with you in the car). You can look at the specs on my suspension and see that I went for an around-the-town stomper setup, which is still stable and predictable on the interstate. I'm positive this car would handle 1 G + on a skidpad, and handles like an lint roller on the back-roads. I would budget about $1800 (pay attention to specs when you go cheaper) to do everything right.... corner-weighting is really what suspension should be designed for. And from watching others in the AutoX, I personally would rather have more spring rate in the rear than in the front, and take out the rear anti-sway bar. The point of a suspension is to first keep the tires on the road. I see too many cars in the autox "rolling over" on the tires. With my setup, you may lift your inside rear tire in a turn, but only under harsh, predicted, braking maneuvers... and it won't interrupt your line or roll over on the sidewall. I've seen Civics with higher spring rates in the front come out with similar times, but elevated protesting from the tires and chassis.
you can see all i've done
95Civic <---
IMO, the best way to get double-valved struts would be to get the Koni yellows (single-valved, single-adjustable), and send the set(s) back to the factory for additional valving. You'll be left with double-valved, single-adjustable strut(s). I only did my rear struts, to avoid wearing them out with the 600 springs. If you need any tips on corner weighting, suspension tuning, etc, LMK.
hope this helps.... sorry for the long rant.