I'm swapping a JDM B16A into a 92 EG si hatch too! Hopefully this weekend. Are you VTEC wired? If you are, the swap can be done pretty easy (if you have access to tools and can get the motor/trans up and in the car) I've done it from underneth and don't suggest it. I did an LS swap in my hatch in '98 and never did one before. If you can do suspension work, brakes, change your oil, etc....I think you can do the swap and not pay $500-1000 to have it done for you.
Can anyone give me some sound advise about connecting the knock sensor to the D3 pin input on the actual clip that attaches to the ECU (p30....?) I want it to be secure and not what my dad would call "Oakie rigged" (yes my family was from the Dust Bowl lmao)
Is it too much work to run it into the loom to the engine bay clips and into the car? If its not too much trouble (I can be somewhat patient) I would like to run it to seem stock/clean. But if its a pain in the a$s then I'll just run it throught the firewall with a black wire into previous loom for stereo and to the ECU.
Any info on making it solid would be greatly appreciated.
FYI ilikehondas
I paid:
$1900 for COMPLETE JDM swap
$260 for new street performance clutch/flywheel (XTR) Not sure that was a good investment cuz it seemed a little cheap but we'll see.
$245 for OEM timing belt, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, cam plug (for cam next to dizzy), cap/rotor, valve cover gasket, oil filter (all from local Honda dealer)
$120 for regular oil (for a flush), synthetic oil (for motor after 1 week flush and trans 7qrts total), NGK plugs ($9 a piece which I probably wont buy again cuz I change them often)
$200 for delievery (10 hr drive by truck)
So thats $2700 or so and I still need to put it all on and swap out my drivetrain. If you don't feel comfortable doing the swap, look for someone reputable that KNOWS hondas (even if its a long drive)You dont need to replace all these new OEM parts but I did and I would suggest it to anyone swapping/building.