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D-Series Advice

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by EGProject, Oct 23, 2005.

  1. EGProject

    EGProject YEEEEAAHHHHH

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    Okay, after much debating and struggling with the concept, I've decided I want to try my hand at boosting my D15B7. Under the impression that I don't go above 10 psi of boost, I'd like to have a semi-reliable setup that can be driven. As for the engine, it's in good condition. 104k miles on it, and it has a new HG, timing belt, waterpump, new main seals, clutch, radiator, and all the other happy horseshit.

    I have a few questions for the boost gurus on here (mainly psol, hotrex, calesta):

    I'm not imcompetent, and know my way around a turbo setup, and can wrench with the best of them, but heres the stuff I'd like to know and get some feedback on.

    -Injectors? 450 DSMs too much? Under the impression I'm gonna change out my pump, want to know what size will be good.

    -Fuel management. Heard different things about FMU's and fuel regs. FMU? AFC? I want to try and stay away from expensive standalones and piggbacks. Dyno time ain't cheap.

    -Manifold. Cast? (assuming I can find a D-series ni-cast manny) Don't really want a hack-job HX/VX manifold conversion. Tubular? Prolly would go with a hotrex mani, or take dive and try the OBX-R.

    -Boost Control? If I'm gonna run on a wastegate spring only (for 8-10psi), do I need a manual boost controler?

    And lastly...In case I want to build the motor later, I'd like to stick with a T3/4 flanged manifold - but what would be a good smallish turbo with a similar frame to use? GT28RS? GT28?

    Thanks for answering my noobish questions.
     
  2. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    450s should be about right. We are working on boosting the hatch (after we have the tranny fixed) and you really shouldnt look at anything above like a T3 Super 60 with that car, especially only a 8-10psi

    Fuel Management...id say go with crome...but in a D15B, i do not know if thats an option.

    For reliability, definitely go with a cast manifold. I have been hearing a lot of horror stories around town that the tubular ones snap welds (if you dont do it yourself that is....even then, go cast)

    Boost control...8psi is a livable pressure, probably just go with that spring in the WG and a gauge for peace of mind.

    And i still say a T3 Super 60 is your best bet with a stock engine...its only like 350 new, not like the insane price of a GT28R (which is also good for your stock setup...assuming 10psi)

    I think i finally got the hang of reading these damn maps, so hopefully the others can confirm what im saying.
     
  3. formby

    formby learning in progress

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  4. CoreyR

    CoreyR Senior Member

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    450's are perfect. youll need to do some wiring to make them work right though. a walbro 255 is generally what everyone runs its cheap and good for 600+ hp.

    dont watse your time on FMU's/AFC's. its 2005, freeware engine managent is abundant and much easier to tune with. getting a socketed p06 will run you like $50 if you supply the ECU. and a chip burner will run you $80 for a brand new unit.

    josh (hotrex) makes some nice peices and they are cheap, cheaper than most other companies. dont wate you rmoney on cast you can get a tubular for just as much and it will flow better.

    boost control, you mentioned using GT28R/RS those both have internal wastegates with adjustable actuator arms, so you can adjust the boost accordingly with that. no need for a boost controller for 10 psi.

    assuming your sticking with a d series GT28RS is rated for 400 HP which im sure is enough to support your goals. while its a bit expensive ($1000-1100) its a great turbo and worth the money.
     
  5. EGProject

    EGProject YEEEEAAHHHHH

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    Thanks for the input guys.


    Looks like Crome/Zdyne/Uberdata is the way to go. Maybe have Psol help me out with a reflash. I understand you can run the 450's with a resistor mod? Or do I need a resistor box?


    Looking at the GT28, and other T3/4 variants, looks like I'll steer away from the GT-series. They're really expensive, and I can find decent T3/4's for decent prices. Most stuff, short of the ECU tuning is pretty straightforward - I can tap/weld the pan and mount everything, but I think the biggest thing will be the downpipe. Trying to find 5-bolt downpipes for Hondas on Ebay and everywhere else - looks like I'll need a shop to fab me up one, or someone to come over to my garage to weld it.

    2.5", or 3" turboback? Kteller has some nice deals, and just wonder is 3" would be overkill for the kind of power I'll be pushing.
     
  6. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    Personally on a stock d, i still say go with a T3 60 or super 60. Even a T04B S trim or a T04E 40 trim might be okay. Once you build up your motor something like a V Trim T04B or a 50-60 trim T04E might be up your alley...i dont see going further on D...youll be out of the compressor range with upgraded internals, and an upgraded turbo will be required.
     
  7. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    i personally ran a t04b s trim 48/60 on my built d seris . it made excellent power, while still retaining a good spool.

    cast manifolds crack more than any stainless units. and yes, i could make a manifold that would shit all over a cast one for cheaper.

    450cc injector will support your goals.
    crome pro..... end of story. the full spool launch is off the chain... hahaha
     
  8. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    the fact that hotrex agreed with me means i got the hang of reading compressor maps....doesnt it?
     
  9. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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  10. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    yay...PARTY AT REIKOS!! (Really...i got enough beer/soda/food to throw a party at a seconds notice)
     
  11. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    yes, the 450's need either a resistor box or the inline resistors as seen on homemadeturbo.com's write up section...
     
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