D series motor
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The D15B is an excellent one to build- other than that you want to look at the D16Z6 and the D16Y8.
When ever I go to ebay or any other site and I type d15b in, it usually comes back with nothing found or stuff I dont care to purchase..I was wondering if parts for the z6 or y8 might interchange like turbo kits and rods and pistons..Other bolt ons as well intake, cat back.
If its going to be a d-series, definetly a z6 or y8. Speaking from experience, the dohc zc is more difficult to find parts for. If I could do it all over again, would have spent the extra dollars and got a b16.
D16A6 is one of the very best D-Series engines available (in SOME respects), but overall is very good, especially with certain modifications.
I wish I could remember all of the key reasons to speak of as to why it's superior in certain areas. A few things to mention are the flat top pistons and the strong stud girdle. The head is pretty mediocre from what I understand. Not that comparable to D-Series VTEC heads, but better than a lot of the non-VTEC.
It's probably the best block to use for Mini-Me swaps and it's certainly not to be underestimated. Give it a Y8 head and intake manifold for starters and she'll be pretty mean for a single cam.
I wish I could remember all of the key reasons to speak of as to why it's superior in certain areas. A few things to mention are the flat top pistons and the strong stud girdle. The head is pretty mediocre from what I understand. Not that comparable to D-Series VTEC heads, but better than a lot of the non-VTEC.
It's probably the best block to use for Mini-Me swaps and it's certainly not to be underestimated. Give it a Y8 head and intake manifold for starters and she'll be pretty mean for a single cam.
Well one point that we can all agree on is the bottom end is alot stronger than any b series block. The stout girdle is a plus. Now I have looked at both the d16a6 head and the b16 series head...mainly to decide which way I was going to go with my build. I did find something interesting in that research. The d16a6 head has better flow potential than the DOHC versions and the b16 versions. Mainly due to the shorter intake runners the SOHC head has. Port them and port maych to a high flow intake manifold and you have a real breather. From other sources it has been noted that honda engines thrive off of air flow. As Can be seen by the numbers layed down on dynos from turbo powered hondas. If this were true the shorter the runner the faster the intake charge, a larger and shorter runner would equal a faster/larger intake charge. Keeping in mind that an engine is no more than an air pump. Hence more air/ fuel more hp/torque.
So, a d16a6 head worked over,(i.e, port polished and matched, oversized intake and exhaust valves, and the right cam, which can all be done for under $400 if you have the right people in your pocket) Can turn into a real fire breather....
And that not even dipping into the bottom end, which will already stock support massive gains in hp/torque.
If I am wrong with any of this please let me know.
Still learning about hondas myself... and I am by no means an expert...just doing the math.
So, a d16a6 head worked over,(i.e, port polished and matched, oversized intake and exhaust valves, and the right cam, which can all be done for under $400 if you have the right people in your pocket) Can turn into a real fire breather....
And that not even dipping into the bottom end, which will already stock support massive gains in hp/torque.
If I am wrong with any of this please let me know.
Still learning about hondas myself... and I am by no means an expert...just doing the math.
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801CRX
Got Rice?
OK since you already have a D15B in your car. Take the D15B head and mate it to a D16A6 block. With this you should be able to handle a good amount of boost. Because the D15B head is really strong and reliable not to mention the vtec and the A6 is the strongest d-series block. And typically most d-series lay down more torque than B's But this is just my opinion. For more info on d-series swaps and stuff try dseries.org.
Good luck hope this helps some.
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89' HF CRX- Swaped OBD1 D16Z6
Keep the SOHC's alive
Good luck hope this helps some.
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89' HF CRX- Swaped OBD1 D16Z6
Keep the SOHC's alive
801CRX
Got Rice?
Oh and before i forget if you have a 94 ex civic it should have came with a d16z6 sohc v-tec which is a great single cam to build up. But anyways the A6 block can be found in 88-91 Si civics and crxs.
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89' HF CRX- Swaped OBD1 D16Z6
Keep the SOHC's alive
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89' HF CRX- Swaped OBD1 D16Z6
Keep the SOHC's alive
Intersting, I would agree with you Blanco on the way that you stated your last post. After some research in the design of mentioned motors. But I did not miss anything as you stated. (not to start a bad thread, but this is a good topic)
"Quote your last post, With DOHC engines you can tune both intake and exhaust and you have larger runners with B-Series so you can stuff more air in. You also have larger bores which allow for larger valves, which makes more power, and you can rev higher with the shorter B-Series strokes."
This answer was really well explained. But I think you missed something that I mentioned in my post.
"Quote from my post....The d16a6 head has better flow potential than the DOHC versions and the b16 versions. Mainly due to the shorter intake runners the SOHC head has. Port them and port match to a high flow intake manifold and you have a real breather. From other sources it has been noted that honda engines thrive off of air flow. As Can be seen by the numbers layed down on dynos from turbo powered hondas. If this were true the shorter the runner the faster the intake charge, a larger and shorter runner would equal a faster/larger intake charge. Keeping in mind that an engine is no more than an air pump. Hence more air/ fuel more hp/torque."
Now the above red areas are what would be done to achieve the desired results and would make them larger than a b-series head would be.
For example
This is the spec on a factory d16a6
1989-1991 JDM Honda Civic SiR/SiRII (EF9)
You can see that both engines have very simular displacement. Now the only advantage that the b16 has at the stock level at this point would be compression, and stroke. With only having 5 cubic cm larger displacement doesnt add enough advantage as far as I am concerned. So the way I see this is the b16 has 48
more horses than the d16. This 48hp comes from the increased compression ratio and the different rod/stroke. Which leads it to having a little stronger rpm range as well. The torque between the two is not that much different as well.
Just some general thoughts......... for nearly 400 dollars difference in buying a d-series to a b-series setup from a engine place is it worth it, I might say yes if you plan on really modding the motor....b-series has a bigger following in after market. If your just replacing a motor to give it more life and dont want to spend stupid dollars modding it to compete with modded b-series. Buy the d-series, I can get the motors/ harness/ecu for $450.00 all day long. Add some headers/exhaust, chip to ecu and you have a motor that will do the same hp, put down more torque and save $200. Keep in mind thats if you dont plan to do crazy mods.
If you are go to the b16, unless you are not working w/ a budget like me.....
Hell I am working on a setup for my now current 700hp 532cid Cadillac. Utilizing a SVT cobra intake manifold dual SVT Cobra throttle bodies, 800 injectors and not one but 2 T88 turbo chargers. This will make me putting down 1400 HP @roughly 5200rpm. Thought I would write that in here for a little idea of what I like to build.......frankenstein motors...lol
"Quote your last post, With DOHC engines you can tune both intake and exhaust and you have larger runners with B-Series so you can stuff more air in. You also have larger bores which allow for larger valves, which makes more power, and you can rev higher with the shorter B-Series strokes."
This answer was really well explained. But I think you missed something that I mentioned in my post.
"Quote from my post....The d16a6 head has better flow potential than the DOHC versions and the b16 versions. Mainly due to the shorter intake runners the SOHC head has. Port them and port match to a high flow intake manifold and you have a real breather. From other sources it has been noted that honda engines thrive off of air flow. As Can be seen by the numbers layed down on dynos from turbo powered hondas. If this were true the shorter the runner the faster the intake charge, a larger and shorter runner would equal a faster/larger intake charge. Keeping in mind that an engine is no more than an air pump. Hence more air/ fuel more hp/torque."
Now the above red areas are what would be done to achieve the desired results and would make them larger than a b-series head would be.
For example
This is the spec on a factory d16a6
- Displacement : 1590 cm3
- Bore and Stroke : 75 mm X 90 mm
- Compression : 9.6:1
- Power : 110 hp @ 6000 rpm & 100 ft·lbf @ 5000 rpm
- Valvetrain : SOHC
- Fuel Control : OBD-0 Multi-point PGM-FI
1989-1991 JDM Honda Civic SiR/SiRII (EF9)
- Displacement: 1595 cm³
- Compression: 10.2:1
- Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
- Power: 158 hp @ 7600 rpm & 112 ft·lbf @ 7000 rpm
- Transmission: S1/J1/Y1/A1
You can see that both engines have very simular displacement. Now the only advantage that the b16 has at the stock level at this point would be compression, and stroke. With only having 5 cubic cm larger displacement doesnt add enough advantage as far as I am concerned. So the way I see this is the b16 has 48
more horses than the d16. This 48hp comes from the increased compression ratio and the different rod/stroke. Which leads it to having a little stronger rpm range as well. The torque between the two is not that much different as well.
Just some general thoughts......... for nearly 400 dollars difference in buying a d-series to a b-series setup from a engine place is it worth it, I might say yes if you plan on really modding the motor....b-series has a bigger following in after market. If your just replacing a motor to give it more life and dont want to spend stupid dollars modding it to compete with modded b-series. Buy the d-series, I can get the motors/ harness/ecu for $450.00 all day long. Add some headers/exhaust, chip to ecu and you have a motor that will do the same hp, put down more torque and save $200. Keep in mind thats if you dont plan to do crazy mods.
If you are go to the b16, unless you are not working w/ a budget like me.....
Hell I am working on a setup for my now current 700hp 532cid Cadillac. Utilizing a SVT cobra intake manifold dual SVT Cobra throttle bodies, 800 injectors and not one but 2 T88 turbo chargers. This will make me putting down 1400 HP @roughly 5200rpm. Thought I would write that in here for a little idea of what I like to build.......frankenstein motors...lol
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erebunicrx
my name is Dale
if i was going to be building a d series turbo motor i would stay away from the y8 block. it has the worst of all the oiling systems. also the a6 has been said to be the best of all the blocks. also a6 heads will allow you to run high lift cams but you sacrifice drivalblity due to no samaller lobe.
erebunicrx
my name is Dale
they spin bearings more then any other d series motors when you spin them more then 8k.
K2e2vin
Senior Member
B16 head flows like 100cfm more than than D16 one btw. The B-series VTEC valves are also 2.5mm larger than the D-series on the intake side..
The Y8 has one side of the port sort of curved; helps promote swirl. This increase fuel efficiency/low rpm burn but chokes it at higher rpm. Also, the oiling system sucks; common to spin bearings in a Y8.
I say you put a Y7 head on there and stay Non-VTEC. The D16Y7 head is pretty much a D16Z6 head without VTEC. With the Y7 cam, you can get a $70 regrind vs. buying a $250-$300 camshaft.
The Y8 has one side of the port sort of curved; helps promote swirl. This increase fuel efficiency/low rpm burn but chokes it at higher rpm. Also, the oiling system sucks; common to spin bearings in a Y8.
I say you put a Y7 head on there and stay Non-VTEC. The D16Y7 head is pretty much a D16Z6 head without VTEC. With the Y7 cam, you can get a $70 regrind vs. buying a $250-$300 camshaft.
