RoughKnight
Christmas Car
So, gonna do the ecu reset when the car cools off, but now it idles at 2k, that's it. Nothing new except that. Somebody help lol, we have a whole forum full of people and two people have shown support. Thanks in advance.
D15 Thanks and Problem
- Thread starter RoughKnight
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RoughKnight
Christmas Car
Okay so, kinda good news! The TPS and MAP sensor cels are gone after the reset! But the IACV the o2 cels (14 and 41, respectivly) Are still there. I tried to extend a 2prong wire to under the intake manifold on the drivers side, but it didn't change anything. So I'm stuck. I might need a new o2 sensor, thinking about getting a wideband for future tuning use, but te IACV? Where is it and what is it?
78civic
Junior Member
I've had luck in the past with taking the IAC off and cleaning the inside real good with carb cleaner or the like and then using compressed air to finish. Have you tried to pull the lid off and see if the valve is leaking past your finger (you use your finger to plug to see if the idle changes at all)
Are you low on coolant? From what I remember, the heated coolant melts the wax inside the vlave and alows it to move to it's adjusted stop.
And go back to the FAQ and read up on the 4-wire conversion for the O2. Maybe you have it wired wrong or it's just bad which is not UNcommon since they are selling crap gas for premium price.
E
Are you low on coolant? From what I remember, the heated coolant melts the wax inside the vlave and alows it to move to it's adjusted stop.
And go back to the FAQ and read up on the 4-wire conversion for the O2. Maybe you have it wired wrong or it's just bad which is not UNcommon since they are selling crap gas for premium price.
E
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
For starters, I used the 4wire off my old d15b7 which I've forum hunted and found that it should work. Second, I have no idea where the iacv is. I keep thinking I've found it, only to figure out that after my ecu reset code 14 still throws. I thought it was a plug closer to the backside near the driverside of the intake manifold, but after plugging that in with my empty 2prong it made no change. I dunno if this helps...
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
Man, I'm at half my tank and at 141kms, and the car doesn't pull hard enough for what it is. I'm about to call honda motors for a problem which I know is under my nose... Argh
any opinions? Or what the fuck the iacv is? I tried googling it but it showed nothing of interest for my civic... Rawr
please, and thanks
any opinions? Or what the fuck the iacv is? I tried googling it but it showed nothing of interest for my civic... Rawr
please, and thanks
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
UPDATEEEE:
iacv fixed, third wiring problem. So just the o2 cel left. God sounds so cool to have to car idle so well lol...
Any ideas about that one? It looks wired correctly... And I'm running a p28 so I don't need a 1wire o2.
I was thinking about getting one of those eBay autometer wideband sensors with the Bosch o2, do I need a specific one or special install instructions? Or any other ideas?
iacv fixed, third wiring problem. So just the o2 cel left. God sounds so cool to have to car idle so well lol...
Any ideas about that one? It looks wired correctly... And I'm running a p28 so I don't need a 1wire o2.
I was thinking about getting one of those eBay autometer wideband sensors with the Bosch o2, do I need a specific one or special install instructions? Or any other ideas?
78civic
Junior Member
Sorry for being late.. The IACV= Idle Air Control Valve. Sometimes when it's cold and they mess up it sounds like the engine is reving up and down about 800rpms until it warms that wax inside and shuts the valve.
It's usually on back of the intake somewhere. it changed from engine to engine.
There is a tutorial in the faq section on how to wire up a 4 wire O2 sensor.
Glad to hear it's up and running. (also, check your throttlebody for 'gunk' buildup. Pull it off without damaging the gasket and get an old toothbrush and some carb cleaner and start scrubbing away to make sure the trottle blade closes all the way.) Reinstall
That might be a fix for an idling issue.
E
It's usually on back of the intake somewhere. it changed from engine to engine.
There is a tutorial in the faq section on how to wire up a 4 wire O2 sensor.
Glad to hear it's up and running. (also, check your throttlebody for 'gunk' buildup. Pull it off without damaging the gasket and get an old toothbrush and some carb cleaner and start scrubbing away to make sure the trottle blade closes all the way.) Reinstall
That might be a fix for an idling issue.
E
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
Idle is fine now, like i stated in my previous post. Any way to check
if my o2 sensor is bad without having to buy a new one?
if my o2 sensor is bad without having to buy a new one?
If you have a volt meter you can check the o2 sensor. What colors are the four wires? The standard Bosch is 2 whites a gray and a black wire. If your sensor is still oem the colors will be different. The whites are the heater circuit and should have battery voltage. The black should be ground and the gray should be the signal to the ecu. The signal to the ecu should toggle above and below .5 volts. never less than .1 and never more than .9.
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
Alright, that was the most useful post yet. Mine going to the sensor are 2 whiTes, one black and one grey. Now there are connected to separate wires going to the plug. Here is where I think my problem lies. I think they aren't lined for the correct plug. I dunno if I have a volt meter, I'll ask my dad. How do I check with the meter? Car running? Power on?
Also, the wires running out of my plug are 2 blacks, one white and one green. Maybe some random mix n match?
Also, the wires running out of my plug are 2 blacks, one white and one green. Maybe some random mix n match?
Yes, to check the sensor you need to have the engine running. You should have power on the 2 white wires as soon as you start it. The signal wire won't start to toggle until the sensor warms up to temp. what exact year and trim level is your civic? hatch,2, or 4 door? let me know and I can check what the factory wire colors should be so we can see if your wired correctly.
Last edited:
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
Alright... After fixing code 14, its now throwing a code 10. Air temp sensor. I'm about to ditch this project... I require salvation lol 
Do I need a new iacv to fix this or should I just throw the damn car out
fuck my turbo dreams are farther away with every step forward I try to take
Do I need a new iacv to fix this or should I just throw the damn car out
fuck my turbo dreams are farther away with every step forward I try to take
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
^^ Gonna do it tomorrow
lol time to get dirty again
lol time to get dirty again
RoughKnight
Christmas Car
Incase people are wondering, and i dont wanna jynx it, i fixed the problem 45 mins ago. No more cel, no more problems, a tad rich due to the p28 and a small smell due to my temporary straight pipe cracking to heat wear.
For the o2 sensor, it was a simple wire switch. Two of the wires were mixed up, one of the grounds and the actual info wire. So after reversing those, i read a few forums about iacv stuff. Found a online scan of a honda manual, but before i did that, I had an extra plug from my harness (or the firewall). Either way, I just swapped the plug in it, and reset the ecu. Low and behold.
It doesn't pull as hard from the bottom rpms, im guessing the flood of fuel from running limp mode helped that out a bit. But on the top end it feels fluid and smooth as butter.
Thanks to everybody who lended a hand, It just didnt feel right not to report it and leave another open thread like this.
So...where do I go from here? Im gonna chip the p28 to run the p08 ecu, but im thinking about a future turbo addition. I want it to be a sleeper, and i'm gonna make a build thread documenting this. Pics of my "christmas car" and all.
For the o2 sensor, it was a simple wire switch. Two of the wires were mixed up, one of the grounds and the actual info wire. So after reversing those, i read a few forums about iacv stuff. Found a online scan of a honda manual, but before i did that, I had an extra plug from my harness (or the firewall). Either way, I just swapped the plug in it, and reset the ecu. Low and behold.
It doesn't pull as hard from the bottom rpms, im guessing the flood of fuel from running limp mode helped that out a bit. But on the top end it feels fluid and smooth as butter.
Thanks to everybody who lended a hand, It just didnt feel right not to report it and leave another open thread like this.
So...where do I go from here? Im gonna chip the p28 to run the p08 ecu, but im thinking about a future turbo addition. I want it to be a sleeper, and i'm gonna make a build thread documenting this. Pics of my "christmas car" and all.
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