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EG to EK Swap of parts

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by blacksilo, Oct 18, 2010.

  1. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    hey guys, so i currently have a 94 EJ1 with a semi-built z6 and turbo. i have rear discs and a few suspension items.

    i have multiple questions about what will transfer over from my current EG to my new 99 Civic LX Sedan. I'm doing this swap because i really enjoy my civic, enjoy boost, and i know them well so swapping chassis shouldn't be a problem, just want to get my shit right beforehand. And i do not want to source new parts for things i already have if i do not need too. I DO NOT have to pass emissions, have to be OBD1 already for tune, and have done some research on what i need to make my OBD1 motor work in my ODB2b chassis.

    so here are some questions of mine:
    ENGINE:
    i need an ECU conversion harness (obd2b-obd1)
    Rywire - Online Store

    i JUST bought a brand new dizzy so would like to use it plus i hear that the obd2 dizzy will not fit z6 head...
    Rywire - Online Store

    There is also an IACV fix i need to employ?
    OBD2B -> OBD1 IACV - Honda-Tech

    and i will need to run a VTEC harness
    Rywire - Online Store

    apart from these essentials, will hoses/rad hoses fit? engine mounts, which driver side motor mount do i need to use? OBD2 alternator?

    Since i had a 94 civic with R-134a, will the compressor fit with the same mounts?

    Will i need to do anything with the IC piping/ turbo fitment as is the EK front end shaped differently? i think i will run a new exhaust..unless mine could fit?

    do i use the y7 or the z6 tranny?

    Rear Discs
    Im under the impression that 92-00 chassis are the same so the trailing arms should bolt up to the 99 correct? will my suspension fit right in from the EG?

    are the e-brake cables the same, hydraulic lines?

    my major concern is with sourcing a new BB/Master Cylinder and Prop Valve, what do i get these out of? a 99 si?

    Suspension
    When i helped a buddys EK, i noticed that his new Skunk2 Pro S's came with some washer spacers for the LCA's because the EKs are narrower than the EG's do i need some of these because the skunk2 sport shocks i have fit the EG LCA's perfectly.


    Thanks for the assistance!! :D
     
  2. murray195

    murray195 Member

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    Hello Blacksilo,
    I can answer a few of your questions, but not all.
    ECU Jumper harness: I've always made my own, but for $75, unless you're 100% confident in your wiring and have the time, buy the jumper.
    Distributor Jumper: If you have both distributors, save your money. It only takes about 20 minutes to swap the guts from one to the other. You're right, the housing for the z6 is different than the y7 and it will be necessary to make a modification either way (swap guts or buy the jumper). PM me and I'll walk you through the process.
    IACV: Yes, this mod is required as OBD1 uses a 2 wire system and your car won't idle worth a $hit unless you do it.
    Vtec: You really only need to run two wires to your ecu, the third I always ground on one of the solenoid's 10mm bolts. Just save your money and salvage from your z6 harness.
    Rad hoses: same
    Engine Mount: Use the y7
    A/C: it's all the same... but i've found the power steering from the ek isn't really a straight bolt up.
    Exhaust: Should fit with some minor modification at the rear
    IC Piping: If anything, you have a little more room on the EK.
    Tranny: Stick with the z6 tranny. The only way I would keep the Y7 tranny would be if it was an EX trans
    Trailing arms, suspenstion, etc: Put all of your eg stuff in. Yes the LCAs are skinnier in the ek, but the eg ones will bolt right in. The only difference there could be for the brakes is ABS. Yes, you can grab your BB/Master Cylinder and Prop Valve out of an SI or EX.
    I hope this helped a little.
     
    2 people like this.
  3. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    thanks a lot man, it actually helped a lot...think you saced me some money too :)

    so do i need to use all of the y7 mounts for the z6?

    can i use some washers to space the rear shocks? ( i have Energy bushings in my EG LCA's and was trying to get away from them cause they have such a rough ride)

    im assuming the BB/MM and Prop Valve will NOT work in the EK right? did any other model than the SI come with rear discs stock?

    thanks,
    James
     
  4. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    oh and i tried to PM you about the dizzy but i can't seem to figure it out on this forum.... Lol
     
  5. murray195

    murray195 Member

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    The All '96 - '00 Civic hatchbacks and the Si and HX coupe share the same prop valve. The LX and DX sedans share another prop valve, and the EX coupes use yet another prop valve. If I were you, I'd grab the prop valve out of a DC2. The BB you can keep the same but I'd grab the master out of an ek si.
    Use the drivers side mount that matches the chassis (y7). The rest are interchangable. The ek has a slightly different angle to it.
    And as for the suspension, you COULD use washers, but I wouldn't recommend it. Maybe just rock the eg ones with the bushings till you get a replacement pair (not that expensive). If your car is being lowered, the eg arms will help with camber. I gotta go to bed, but i'll do a nice little write up for ya on the dizzy tomorrow.

     
  6. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    hey man, thanks for the responses, is there anyway to tell on the prop valve which is which? because on the 92-95's they are marked with a "4040" or "3030".. the EK's seem to have no marks on them at all and how would you know the difference?

    so unlike the EG's, you can keep the same brake booster itself?

    I'm just going to use the EG lower arms for now, i don't like the washer idea and yes the car will be lowered, i have H&R sport springs with Skunk2 sport shocks.. the less total camber/caster adjustment would be great.

    I will thank you a bunch for that write up on the dizzy switch :D unless you know somewhere else it is posted?

    thanks again
     
  7. murray195

    murray195 Member

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    Hey bud, sorry I took so long to get back to you, been busy with a couple swaps. Anyways, I'll try and give you a step by step walk through on the dizzy.

    Starting with the y7 dizzy:

    Step 1: Remove the three screws holding the cap on
    Step 2: Turn the rotor till the phillips screw is exposed, and remove the screw.
    Step 3: Remove the rotor and plastic dust shield that hides everything (might not have the shield, a lot of people neglect to re-install them)
    Step 4: If you flip the dizzy around, you'll see the camshaft input (has two prongs sticking out of it). One side of the circle has an offset line going through it. Make note of where this is in relation to the flat spot on the shaft where you removed the rotor.
    Step 5: Remove the "C" clip on the input side. This clip holds a small rod in place that goes all the way through the dizzy shaft.
    Step 6: Carefully push the rod out to release the cam input assembly. Be careful not to lose any of the pieces! I generally stack them exactly as I removed them somewhere safe so I don't forget bump them and forget the order.
    Step 7: Turn the dizzy back around (you're done with the cam side for now)
    Step 8: Remove the two screws holding the ignitor in place and disconnect any connections from it not connected to the coil.
    Step 9: Remove the two screw holding the coil in place along with the two wires secured to the top of it with phillips screws.
    Step 10: Pull the ignitor and coil out and set them aside.
    Step 11: Remove all phillips screws still visible other than the ones below the cast aluminum plate.
    Step 12: Gently tap the dizzy shaft from the cam side which will lift the cast aluminum plate which housed the coil and ignitor. DO NOT FORCE THE ASSEMBLY OUT. I can't stress this enough. If it isn't coming out, you may have overlooked a screw.
    NOTE: There is one wire off the main dizzy harness that comes up through this plate to the ignitor. Make a note or a mark on the cast plate to remind you where to re-route it.
    Step 13: Now you should be down to 2 magnetic sensors. Each have two phillips screws. Remove all four screws.
    Step 14: Gently remove these sensors and the harness will come out with them.

    Now you should be left with nothing but a Shell of a dizzy with an oil seal. Move away from the mess that was the y7 dizzy and follow steps 1-14 for the z6 dizzy. When the z6 dizzy is down to just the shell, head back over to what was the y7 and put all the guts from the y7 into the z6 housing by working back from step 14 down to 1. There's a lot of magnetic $hit in the dizzy, so I generally have my finger tip on every screw I re-install. It really sucks when you drop one and it goes all the way to the bottom! Let me know if you need some more clarification on anything.

    In my experiences cut/splices connectors fail and have inaccurate resistance in the wires when soldered. This is definitely a more reliable modification. A conversion harness is an extra connection that could fail and once you do one of these rebuilds... and it's usually made in China so... lol. It might be a little more work, but this method is well worth the time!
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2010
  8. murray195

    murray195 Member

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    This little bit of info on brakes is Courtesy of inlinefour.com

    OEM Honda Proportioning valve, a must have for cars with drum to rear disc conversions or if your proportioning valve just needs replacing.

    To properly have the correct front to rear brake distribution, the proportioning valve will need to be upgraded. A rule of thumb is to upgrade to the highest model of the chassis you own. For instance, a 92 Civic CX that has been upgraded with GSR rear disc brakes, should use the proportioning valve from a 95 Civic EX (which came equipped with rear disc brakes from the factory). Otherwise, if you choose to use a proportioning valve from a different chassis, you will have to re-do your own "hard brake-lines".
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2010
  9. jgpoirier

    jgpoirier New Member

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    Murray knows his stuff, we had the same problem on my sedan just not even a month ago. Good thing he lives three blocks me cause I was lost. Cant find a decent answer elsewhere.
     
  10. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    well thank you for the info murray! it will help a lot and I'm sure there will be more questions when i get underway :D
     
  11. murray195

    murray195 Member

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    no worries, pm me whenever you need to
     
  12. hondapartshero

    hondapartshero New Member

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    If you can use a 99-00 EX engine to ECU harness. It'll eliminate any need to run extra wires for VTEC, IACV, IAT, (since the Z6 uses the IAT in the manifold) and either reuse the Z6 injectors (remove the blue plastic piece on the inside of the injector connector and it'll plug right in) or find some Y8 injectors.
     
  13. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    thanks man, but i'm running some DSM 450cc injectors so i will need to modify the ones i have. So i found me a 4dr EX that I'm going to pick up tomorrow, I'm pretty stoked about it.. since its an EX, i have a couple of questions...

    it has VTEC and it's a 5speed, so do i need to change anything such as iacv/tps/tb sensors or anything? (other than the dizzy)
    i got my OBD2b-OBD1 conversion harness in the mail yesterday too

    now what kind of proportioning valve does the 4dr EX model have? (do i need an SI master cylinder/bb still, are the boosters the same between the ex and the SI?)
     
  14. blacksilo

    blacksilo New Member

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    oh and i need some new e-brake cables, which ones do i need? the ones that fit an EG coupe chassis or should i get ones for an EG sedan. (i'm told that 6th gen's never came with rear discs?)

    Thanks!
     
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