Engine types

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92accord

Junior Member
Ok guys.....I'm the newest nOOb here and I'm in somewhat of a rut. I own a 1992 Accord EX auto. The engine has an absurd amount of miles and I just replaced the cyl head a week ago. Anyways, it has a rod knocking and is otherwise a timebomb waiting to go off. I have been debating on doing the H22A swap for some time since I have discovered that it is possible to swap engines into an Accord. The thing is, I don't really have the money to do the complete H22A swap. This car is my daily driver and I need to get it running. Engines locally at salvage yards are rediculous and not worth the hassle really. So, I'm wondering what other slightly upgraded (read: better than the F22A6) will swap into my Accord fairly easily until I have the coin to do the H22A swap? On a side note, can I use my auto trans that is currently in the car? I'm on a seriously tight budget. I know that a 5spd is the proper way to go but I can't afford it quite yet. My main issues are when I do get my H22A, I'm getting the engine/ecu/harness and that's it. Will my auto trans hold up to the extra power of the H22A for a while until I get the manual trans? Also, does anyone know what the gears are for the Accord 5spd and the Prelude 5spd? I haven't a clue and I've searched google until my fingers ached. I have heard that the Prelude trans has closer ratio gears and the Accord has wider spaced gears. Can anyone confirm this? I would more than likely use an Accord 5spd because I can get one of those for real cheap from a donor car, plus the taller gears = higher top end.....lol. Thanx for any help everyone and sorry for all the questions. Just trying to learn as much as possible before I dive headlong into a hole w/out a rope to pull myself out with....lol.
 
heres my 2 cents.

i have a 94 lx auto with an f22b2 (POS) and i just started my h22a swap and 5spd conversion.

I/M/O if you want the h22 dont buy something else because your that much further away from gettin it. your tranny will bolt up to the h22 i belive. and it should hold up to the power unless youve shot your torque converter also. but i would save the extra bit to get the h22a right away. it will be well worth it.

unless of course your looking for a cheaper less popular motor like an f series sohc vtec or something?
 
Well, I'm not going to have enough money for the H22A swap for about a month or so. I had to file my taxes snail mail route. My g/f is getting hers on the 17th and with that, I was debating on getting a cheaper engine just to tool around in. On a related subject, is the wiring that hard to do? Will all of my gauges/lights in the dash still operate properly? I know my auto trans has it's own ecu that controls it so I'm good there. I'm talking about the tach and various engine MIL's. Also, what about the exhaust system? I plan on getting a Magnaflow c/b and eliminating the factory cat and installing a much better high flow unit. Would a Prelude header fit with the rest of the exhaust? What all would I need to complete the exhaust setup? How about throttle bodies? Yes I still want cruise control as I do a lot of highway driving. I believe I have to use my F22A6 throttle body on the H22A to retain it am I correct? Where can I send mine off to get ported out or maybe buy a bigger one? I don't want to limit top end rpm by hindering it w/a small t/b. What about c/v shafts? Mine need to be replaced anyways. What should I use? The Prelude or Accord c/v's?

Phil
 
i have a 92 accord also, and i got an h22 for it, and the h22 i got has the cruise control controller on the throttle body just like the f22a6
 
you shouldnt have to use your throttle body. just make the bracket for the cables. if you are going to use the h22 and not some other motor. than you will need the h22 2 piece header. wiring isnt that hard. mine was becuase it was my first time. just make sure you mark the plugs so you can match them up. all your cluster lights should work unless your trying to do something not needed and mess with the interior harness.

theres not really any other motor to "plink" around with for a while. there is other F series but i dont think its worth it wether or not your going to use it for a certain amount of time. b series cant pull the wait of an accord like an h22 can. and dont even bother with anything else.
 
My first H22A swap, I used the F22 auto tranny. It held up just fine. I later swapped in the H22A auto tranny with LSD. I love the LSD, and the gearing is shorter. Mostly, you notice the shorter gears at above 45 mph.

You use your accord harness. I say go H22, then tranny up later. You could get the motor and ECU for around 1100-1500. You can buy them seperately. YOU HAVE the best platform for this swap. The 94 Accord swap is more difficult.

That being said, if you cannot afford the H22, then........

F22A#
F22B
F22B1
F22B2
H23A
H23A#
H22A
H22A#

F23's can be done, but more wiring.

The block numbers that don't end with a digit are JDM. An H23 would be almost as much work as an H22A. An F22B(DOHC) is comparable to the H23. An F22B1 or 2 is just a pain in the ass for little or no gain.

Go F22A6, F22B, H23, or H22. I'd go H22, especially since we can give you a walkthrough on this swap(see my guide.)
 
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My first H22A swap, I used the F22 auto tranny. It held up just fine. I later swapped in the H22A auto tranny with LSD. I love the LSD, and the gearing is shorter. Mostly, you notice the shorter gears at above 45 mph.

You use your accord harness. I say go H22, then tranny up later. You could get the motor and ECU for around 1100-1500. You can buy them seperately. YOU HAVE the best platform for this swap. The 94 Accord swap is more difficult.

That being said, if you cannot afford the H22, then........

F22A#
F22B
F22B1
F22B2
H23A
H23A#
H22A
H22A#

F23's can be done, but more wiring.

The block numbers that don't end with a digit are JDM. An H23 would be almost as much work as an H22A. An F22B(DOHC) is comparable to the H23. An F22B1 or 2 is just a pain in the ass for little or no gain.

Go F22A6, F22B, H23, or H22. I'd go H22, especially since we can give you a walkthrough on this swap(see my guide.)

So you're telling me the harness that my F22A6 uses will work on the H22 as well? Aren't the sensors different between them? I was saying because the H22 I'm gonna get is coming from hmotorsonline unless you know of a more reputable place that's maybe cheaper? They told me it will come w/the harness from the H22. Wouldn't I need to use that? I was under the general impression that the harness is cut in half at the firewall and that I'd have to install the other end (H22 ecu) inside the car and splice the 2 halves together? I'm sorta confused now........I didn't know I could use the F22A6 harness as well? What about the distributor/ignition plugs? Aren't they different? That's great news that the F22A6 trans held up fine, one less thing I need to worry about for a while. How much of a difference did it make with just the engine swap? Was it like night and day? I'd like to whoop up on some RSX's here.....lol. Sorry for sounding so dumb but this is my first ever engine swap in a foreign car and I don't wanna screw it up.
 
You use the F22A6 harness, and modify it. You can't use the H22 harness.

Read my guide.

You won't whoop up on an RSX, but it will put a smile on your face. The H22 is kinda Jekyll and Hyde. Mild mannered (F22 like) until 5k, then it gets hungry and takes off. You'll like it.

Since you don't leave the line at 5k, the auto tranny kinda sucks taking off, but once you're rolling, it's great. I went neck and neck with a B18C swapped Civic hatch, and I had a knock code at the time holding back my performance. With no codes, that motor rocks.
 
and you will use your old harness. the strut tower plugs wont plug in and the harness ends on the wrong side. its just easier to modify your F22 harness.
 
Ok, I have been reading up on the H22A. What yrs have the defective auto tensioner? How hard is it to fix?
 
i think they all have the auto tensioner, and its very easy to fix...i posted it on here a while back. just search for tensioner and my name for all the parts. if i remember right, the H23 has a manual tensioner that you can steal and put on the h22.
 
ive never had a problem yet with mine. the trick i used to put it on was of course flush and fill it with new grease or whatever you guys use. than i zip tied it shut after tighting screw and bolted it on, but the T belt in place and cut the tie. easy. unless you wanna buy that fork looking thing from the dealer?

iono if thats what your talking about but yea a little easy tip for T belt replacement
 
ok guys, I really appreciate the help with the H22 info, but I found a sweet ass deal on another F22A6 here locally. It has less than 80K miles and looks like brand new. The car is a 1992 EX 4dr and was rear ended quite badly. I'm getting the complete long block for $400. That's a seal in my book....lol. Now I posted another thread in "forced induction" on turbo or procharger and I'd like to hear some feedback on that. is the F22 strong enough to hold 8-10 psi daily driven? If I do decide to go turbo, it would prolly be the best since all I'd have to do is swap turbo manifold when I get the H22A swapped in. But Prochargers are extremely efficient at what they do. Power gains on most engines w/an air/air IC usually nets like 60-75% gain in hp over stock. The Ford Focus Zetec makes less hp stock than the F22 does and with a Procharger, it makes 212whp. Since my engine is bigger, has lower compression to begin with, I don't see why I couldn't eclipse that power.
 
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ok guys, I really appreciate the help with the H22 info, but I found a sweet ass deal on another F22A6 here locally. It has less than 80K miles and looks like brand new. The car is a 1992 EX 4dr and was rear ended quite badly. I'm getting the complete long block for $400. That's a seal in my book....lol. Now I posted another thread in "forced induction" on turbo or procharger and I'd like to hear some feedback on that. is the F22 strong enough to hold 8-10 psi daily driven? If I do decide to go turbo, it would prolly be the best since all I'd have to do is swap turbo manifold when I get the H22A swapped in. But Prochargers are extremely efficient at what they do. Power gains on most engines w/an air/air IC usually nets like 60-75% gain in hp over stock. The Ford Focus Zetec makes less hp stock than the F22 does and with a Procharger, it makes 212whp. Since my engine is bigger, has lower compression to begin with, I don't see why I couldn't eclipse that power.

I'd expect about 250 hp with a turbo. The F22 isn't made to turn high rpms, but most turbo motors don't. The stock block should hold up if you don't spin it past 6k. From what I read, you can double your horsepower and it only adds 20% to the load on your rods. Spin too fast, and the load is huge. So, either build the block or keep your rpms modest. Size the turbo accordlingly.
 
Thanx for the input Tab. I don't plan on spinning it any faster than the 6200rpm shift point anyways. That's where the trans shifts itself all the time at WOT. The rev limiter is 6500rmp too. So I think I should be ok. I already know I'm gonna have to relocate the batt to the trunk to make room for the IC piping. 200+whp would be nice. Should have about 180-200ft lbs of torque too I presume. What size exhaust would you recommend? Say it's 200whp. Thru an auto trans, that's about 236 crank hp. Would it be better for a 2 1/4" exhaust or 2 1/2"? I don't want it rediculously loud nor do I want to hurt performance either.
 
turbo likes big exhaust. 2 1/2 is an all around good size. Make sure it's mandrel bent. 3" is what most guys will recommend for more power.

find a good intercooler, not some knockoff.
 
Ok, I can't get the engine until Monday and I came across another engine possibility. F20A on ebay for $600 w/free shipping. Would this be better than a sohc F22A6? Would my sohc ECU still run it as well?
 
id assume it works since its still a CB7 engine, but i dont wanna give you the thumbs up.
 
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