1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Fuel system redo

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by Rammus, Jul 25, 2011.

  1. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    Sorry if this is in the wrong spot, and if it has been covered I have searched and can't find what I'm looking for any where. To get to the point though I recently came across a 95 Del Sol for free. Had a gsr motor in it that was removed before I got the body, and in the process of removing the engine/removing other things the fuel lines were cut off just after the tank. I would like to just run new lines up from there but do not know how to rout them or weather I should buy solid metal, rubber, or try to get braided steel lines and run them forward. If any one could shed some light on how you have a fuel system set up or any insight on the best way to run the lines would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

    Messages:
    4,417
    Likes Received:
    154
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2009
    Location:
    NOR-CAL
    You have a main and return line to run (from gas tank main to fuel filter then the fuel rail and out to the return on the gas tank).
    I believe its originally mostly hard lines but you can anything you want but braided steel will be easiest and have more protection (versus plain rubber hose for fuel inj systems).
    Hard line can be done if you have a bender and flare tool.
     
  3. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    Have the flare tool as I'm doing brake lines as well. He reran them on the cabin side of the firewall for a cleaner engine bay, which I have to admit looks very nice. I however do not have a bender, and am having trouble coming across braided line. There looks like a third line running from the tank which is the same size as the rest of the fuel line. I am assuming that this is emissions or evap correct, and if so can I just ignore it or should it be plugged?
     
  4. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

    Messages:
    4,417
    Likes Received:
    154
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2009
    Location:
    NOR-CAL
    Yes it goes to the charcoal canister on the firewall. You can plug it if you don't need to worry about emissions. But it is a safety feature too so I would research it more if I was you
     
  5. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    Thanks for the info I'm gonna have to troll around for the charcoal box but for right now ill probably just leave it. So far the easiest and cheapest route is going to be metal lines and compression fittings.
     
  6. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Recommend you leave the vent line - it's there for a reason.

    I can't imagine a reason to cut steel fuel lines in the cabin as part of an engine removal. Did they do it with a chainsaw?

    Steel lines are there for a reason - I believe it to be safety. That's the best way to go. Bending it shouldn't be too big a deal. I have two types of tubing benders - one is just a set of springs that fit on the OD of the tube and screw off once the bend is made. The other is a mandrel type with a different size die for each tube size.

    Something like this should work fine: KD Tools Tubing Bender 3/16 1/4 5/16 & 3/8In. KDT2189 | eBay
     
  7. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

    Messages:
    4,417
    Likes Received:
    154
    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2009
    Location:
    NOR-CAL
    I think the previous owner did some tucking and such (new fuel lines) but when he sold it.....things were taken out.....although I think he did more harm than profit.
     
  8. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

    Messages:
    11,539
    Likes Received:
    534
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2002
    Location:
    yay area, CA
    You should be able to get a bender for cheap from an auto parts store. Agreed you need to keep that vent line. Either vent to atmosphere or hook it up to the evap canister. I just removed all my evap crap from my 94 del sol vtec. I have to check and see if I still have it laying around; if so I can sell and ship to you if you're interested. Shoot me an offer.
     
  9. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    B16-
    Thanks for the offer but I have the evap stuff he sent it with in the boxes of extra crap that he had pulled from the car. As far as the vent line goes I agree its there for a reason and I'm going to run a line off of it just don't know about running it all the way to the evap canister or not still researching that.

    Mod-man-
    You are also right the lines that run under the car are metal for safety as they will hold up better than rubber lines would against road debris and ice and snow (as I am in Minnesota and have had lines crack due to freezing). My main thought under the car was to possibly run braided steal and was wondering if any one else had done it or not, but right now I thing I'll just run some steal line with compression fittings have used them to repair line before and that held up good.

    As far as the fuel line was routed prior it sounds like you guys think he ran the line to the interior of the car which is not the case. He however ran the brake lines to the cabin side of the firewall from the master cylinder so there would only be the master cylinder and two lines going to AN fittings which lead into the cab. His thought was to keep the engine bay looking cleaner and not have so many aluminum lines running along the firewall. Like I said before it looks good I can try and get some pics up when I get done running every thing in case any one wants to try it.

    Thanks again for all the help and quick responses, I shall try to return the courtesy if I can.
     
  10. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    You're gonna do great. Welcome to the forums. I've read stories about braided lines and dirt/dust getting into them between the steel braid and rubber core and causing wear. I'm not sure I buy that theory.

    But, I do recommend you go with steel lines regardless of the routing. Easy to put ends on - even the OEM type banjo fittings can be silver soldered on.

    Post your stuff, ask questions, give feedback, answer a few other threads and put up some pics - that's all it takes.
     
  11. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    Well just as an update in case you guys care. Got the fuel line routed just used unions and some steel line. Then tried to figure out the wiring as when I got the car it has a harness but could not find the right connectors for any thing... So I started to tear apart the dash tracing the chassis harness, low and behold the whole under hood portion (which I have been searching for for the past 4 days or so was under the removed passenger air bag. Ugh there goes a lot of wasted time pulling one off my old sedan.
     
  12. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
  13. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    I don't know man the newspaper has comics and the internet has porn. I may start a build thread just to keep tabs on it right now I do need to find a new fuel sending unit and actually decide what I wanna do for the motor. I am thinking either a LS or GSR Other wise I may just build up a D16 cause it will be somewhat cheaper. BTW was looking at your car its looking good man.
     
  14. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Thank you. By all means do start up a thread. Share the wealth of knowledge and WTF the entertainment too!!!!

    I'm going to change the fuel pump on the 91 hatch soon. Just to replace it as it's probably original and I have a high performance pump for it. Don't want to drop the tank. I read on 92 and on, they put a nice little access panel in the floor under the back seat and the tank doesn't need to drop. Guess what? Yep, my 91 hatch is going to get an access panel. Will probably do a fiberglass layup over the area that is much larger than the access hole needed. Then cut the hole, and cut out of the fiberglass layup what piece is needed to cover the hole. Cuz, I ain't dropping the frickin tank.

    So, some pics of your setup may help me in locating the specific place to cut.

    Know what I mean Vern????

    I'll put that adventure on the thread for the car for the next guy and the reading pleasure of others.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2011
  15. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    Lol agreed I may have to do that as well right now the whole thing is dropped down and that is a path I never want to take again. An easy access to the pump and lines would have been sooooo nice. but you gotta do what you gotta do. I'll get some pics up and start possibly the slowest build thread ever some time soon. Unfortunately I am moving this weekend so there will not be too much done on the car till I can get settled in at the new place. One more thing I am helping my buddy with his 95 hatch fuel system soon too I'll try to get some pics of that when we do that as it should be a little bit more helpful to you than a del sol.
     
  16. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    Well I got the fuel system worked out and didn't tear out the interior, but I did find a pic of what the fuel pump would be under so here it is. Again its on a del sol so don't know how close it is to a hatch but its right under the silver section in the center of the pic. good luck getting your set up going hope this helps abit.

    fuelaccess.jpg picture by dodken - Photobucket
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Which line did you run? The copper on the RH side of the pic (drivers side of cabin)?

    I haven't touched mine for a few weeks since I installed the aluminum 2 row core full width radiator.

    It's just been too fuggin hot to go outside and mess with it. I'll re-engage in a few weeks when it drops back down into the 90's here in DFW. Even with a 30" fan and 5 head mister along with canopy overhead it's just hot......

    Looks like the fuel pump is under the center panel at the rear of the cabin?
     
  18. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    I didn't run any of them along the top not sure what that is. I ran the lines following the same path as the original placement of the fuel line. Had my old lines from the sedan so just salvaged what I could from them. As far as the fuel pump goes your right its right under the panel in the center grants access to pump and sending unit.

    Man I feel bad for you I had family that used to live outside of Dallas, and when I went to visit it was too hot to do any thing at all. Although I would laugh at them when they came to visit me in MN when it was like 45 to 50 out. I'm in a T-shirt and they were in my winter coats. :D
     
  19. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    A few more weeks and it will cool down into the 90's which I can tolerate with equipment - canopy, big fan & kick ass mister. Sounds like this isn't your first rodeo. Also you're making good progress with it and doing things right. My build is far enough along that it's getting pretty reliable and I can pick when I want to work on it and what I want to work on. Keep it coming bro. I'll update my thread when I resume maintenance on my ride. Still need to prep it and get state inspection done. :)
     
  20. Rammus

    Rammus New Member

    Messages:
    103
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Location:
    MN
    It's my first full system redo, but I used to work in an oil change shop where we replaced sections of line so its familiar to me. Now I'm just waiting on my next pay check to get some more parts and I'm gonna do a mini me swap just to get a bit more power till I can afford to do a B16 or B18 swap. That should more than likely after some work to the suspension and chassis. I started a build thread on it, but that is probably going to be one of the slowest on the site. :D
     
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page