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fule ,fire ..no start

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by swapedsucka, May 6, 2008.

  1. swapedsucka

    swapedsucka New Member

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    i am having probs with my car i putt a b18a1 into 93 civic crank but no start but when i putt fule starter it start yea fule pump hums injectors get gas but how can i tell if they are in the right place help or i am going to sell the dam
     
  2. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    The order of the fuel injectors shouldn't be an issue unless you're wiring is so long that they can get mixed up.

    I would say one of the cam gears is off timing. And I would start with the exhaust.

    What I would do, which not everyone would do, is remove the cover and actually time out the valves, then observe the notch in the cam gear.

    Then of course I would REALLY make sure you're getting fuel. remove the coil wire (Shut off all the spark) and crank it a few times. Open a cylinder and inspect for unburned gasoline. Just because the rail is getting fuel, doesn't mean the injectors are opening or flowing.

    Extra Credit: loosen the pipe at the bottom of the manifold (or header). Double check the TPS. Then check voltage at the coil (should be 5 or so volts). I'm assuming you checked fuses, all sensor connectors , and aren't getting a CEL.
     
  3. swapedsucka

    swapedsucka New Member

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    was geting 9 but fixed it now all i get is 4
     
  4. swapedsucka

    swapedsucka New Member

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    open a cilinder u meen take the spark plug off?
     
  5. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    yeah. The basics are easy to test:

    fuel residue in the cylinder. Crank it with the coil disconnected, remove plugs, inspect. No fuel there, release the pressure valve on the fuel rail. no fuel there, check the pump. End.

    Spark. Remove the plug from the cylinder, attach to the wire, and have a friend crank it. Ground the plug cathode to the engine . No spark, remove plug and use screwdriver to complete circuit from the wire to the block BEFORE YOUR HAND. You'll prolly get hurt doing this one. I've done a million times, so I understand. Ignition timing is checked on the cylinder with a timing gun, always (even in a distributorless system)

    Air. Not much you can do to check it - just make sure there is no squirrel living in the manifold, that the throttle cable is hooked up to the butterfly, and it opens. The two sensor systems around this are the MAF / MAP and TPS. Beyond that is the O2 sensor, which has been connected to a warning light since 1972.

    If you have those 3, then it's time to check timing. When installing the timing belt on a twincam motor, it's important to turn it a few times and then check it again. Everyone 1 revolution of the main pulley should turn the cam pulleys twice. Get a few manual rotations out of it and check it again. This is a common failling of the backyard enthusiast installing DOHC timing equipment. The CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) is on the end of one of the cams, It has a magnetic pickup in it, and the cam has a marked magnet area, or it's keyed and that key has a magnet in it (The B18). It moves just like the distributor. B18s can be forced to accept the CAS key in the flipped way (The mis-fit is tougher, and usually ends up breaking the CAS)

    If a modern engine runs only when giving it throttle (Holding the pedal, and if you let go it stalls out) because the TPS is out of adjustment (It usually has 20 degrees of rotation, and needs to be calibrated) or if you're building a performance engine, the exhaust may be too restrictive (Rare).

    O2 sensors never go bad. If you have a "bad" one it's been melted to a point where the sensor is shorted out (and will run rich as hell). To test an O2 sensor, remove it and bring to the workbench. Attach a multimeter to the outputs (if it's 2 wire, if it's 4 then find the two output wires. Trial and error on that) . Take a MAP torch to it, and make it hot. As the heat goes up it should start reading low (.01 volt) and then up to about .18 volts. .14 volts is reading for Stoich.

    ECU diagnosis isn't too easy. It's just good to keep a known good one around.

    The rest of the sensors will give an OBD warning, and shouldn't prevent the car from running. Your local autoparts store can tell if your ECU is good, but they may require the car to be onsite which sucks.
     
  6. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    Hahahahaha... no, you can't post them HERE. That's pornography. The only thread on Hondaswap that allows nude / semi nude is the girlfriend thread.

    And if you post them up for all to see, then no one will want to help (Because everyone gets the reward anyway)

    But thanks.
     
  7. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    You should also buy her new undies. She's got a huge hole in that pair.
     
  8. swapedsucka

    swapedsucka New Member

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    yea she complains i always tare them off
     
  9. swapedsucka

    swapedsucka New Member

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    thanx dont wana get kicked off
     
  10. abe

    abe New Member

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    get rid of that piece of shit and get a k20
     
  11. swapedsucka

    swapedsucka New Member

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    a ass help the prob dont give me shit about it
     
  12. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Right cause that will be sooo much easier to swap than the B hes having minor trouble with. Dumb ass noob.
     
  14. drbelanger73

    drbelanger73 Beer is good for you.

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    :headsmash:

    :bo:

    i laughed so hard i'm in pain...

    priceless, rep for you...
     
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