Ghetto Freeze
- Thread starter Turbo&Auto
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Turbo&Auto
Nick Go FAST!!
Get a cooler, like 6pack size and leave it behind the pass seat. They sell 12v pumps for like $60 that will reach the distance it needs to. Then plumb it up with quick disconnects so you can take the pump and cooler out.
Cashizslick
!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!i!
My friends supra runs a custom water cooling system for the intercooler that runs on one of those.
Do you think the CO2 idea would work? All you would need is a way to purge the line before racing to get the cold gas right?
Do you think the CO2 idea would work? All you would need is a way to purge the line before racing to get the cold gas right?
The CO2 would work, but it works on the principle of evaporative cooling, so running it through a coiled tube wouldn't work as well as spraying it on a heat dissipator that is on the intake. The reason being, it's still contained in the tube, the gas would expand to the lower pressure in the tube causing a slight cooling effect, but the optimal setup would be having rows of fins on the outside of the intake pipe and spray the liquid CO2 directly onto those. That would more efficiently extract the heat from the intake charge-cooler intake charge-denser air-more powerful combustion. It would require more fabrication, but I'm confident it would work much better than ice water.
deranger
DerangedIsAsDerangedDoes
if you want to go real high tec you could by degas your a/c by extra tubing from a trade supplier hook it up to the lo side bend it round and regas thje system the only down side is it is illegal unless licensed, then you would only notice the difference when the comp cuts out, while its running any extra powert would be eaten up by the comp and then some
yeah thats what i was wondering about the ice water system. Is the power gain able to overcome the added weight of the system? Seems like a lot of weight gain for a relatively small gain in power. Makes about as much sense as filling the back half of ur car with a giant balloon of helium to increase ur power to weight ratio.
f22b1 coupe
Junior Member
We should have a weekly "MacGyver Award" in here that we present. This would definitely take it for this week.
Turbo&Auto
Nick Go FAST!!
WELL, it worked rly well actually!! Within a minute maybe 2 tops, the pipe was frozen!! About 2-3" on either side of the coils were very cold too.
My camera batteries were dead when I went out, but it was dark anyway and my camera sucks in the dark. I will get some times and vids of it working tonight.
Here's my take on it:
You know that pull you get in 1st and 2nd, just insane!! Then 3rd and 4th still pull, but not like that feeling in 1st or 2nd. Now its a steady pull in all gears and the top end feels even more responsive then before. I noticed about a 100 degree drop in EGT's with it on.
I ran the windshield washer pump for about 10 minutes total and it held up. It prolly wont last incredibly long but I have some spares
Edit:
I found a good way to coil the tubing really tight on the pipe too!! If you lock down the one side with a band clamp, then tighten the tubing in like you were screwing a nut on a bolt. Then clamp the other side and its tightly wound! I was surprised that some band clamps held it, but they did!! I thought the tubing would've slid and twisted back underneath the clamps.
My camera batteries were dead when I went out, but it was dark anyway and my camera sucks in the dark. I will get some times and vids of it working tonight.
Here's my take on it:
You know that pull you get in 1st and 2nd, just insane!! Then 3rd and 4th still pull, but not like that feeling in 1st or 2nd. Now its a steady pull in all gears and the top end feels even more responsive then before. I noticed about a 100 degree drop in EGT's with it on.
I ran the windshield washer pump for about 10 minutes total and it held up. It prolly wont last incredibly long but I have some spares
Edit:
I found a good way to coil the tubing really tight on the pipe too!! If you lock down the one side with a band clamp, then tighten the tubing in like you were screwing a nut on a bolt. Then clamp the other side and its tightly wound! I was surprised that some band clamps held it, but they did!! I thought the tubing would've slid and twisted back underneath the clamps.
Turbo&Auto
Nick Go FAST!!
I made a quick lil how-to of what I did:
Here's the supplies:
20' of 1/4" Copper Tubing, (2) 20' rolls of 3/8" rubber or vinyl hose, 1/4" barb to barb fitting, (4) 3/8" band clamps, roll of 12-16 gauge wire, and a toggle switch. Cost = $45
We start the whole mess by removing the pipe you want to freeze. Uncoil the copper tubing loosely, dont try to straighten it out!! Hold it against the pipe and start winding it around. Take your time here and do your best to get it as tight as possible, both to the pipe and coil to coil.
Remove the washer reservoir filler neck. Drill a 1/4" hole in a place where some hose can be easily plumbed to. Then simply press in the barb fitting.
Connect 1 of the rolls of 3/8" hose to the barb fitting and run it thru a hole in the fender well. Re-install the filler neck.
Cut the washer fluid line that goes to your pissers. Using a 5/16" to 1/4" vacuum fitting, connect the line from the washer pump to the other roll of 3/8" hose.
Route them under the front of the car, this way you keep as much of the engine heat away as possible! Ziptie them up wherever possible so they dont sag and become an eyesore. Make sure you dont tighten the zipties to the point the block off the line!!
Route them up into the engine bay and try to keep them away from hot or moving parts!
Connect the 3/8" hoses to the copper tubing by simply sliding it over the copper tubing and then clamping them tight.
I dont have a pic for this part but lastly you need to make the power connections. Remove the connector from the washer pump and using an ohmeter, check which wire of the 2 is constant ground. Leave it connected and cut the remaining wire! Solder a 12-16 gauge wire to that wire and route it inside the car. Run a 12V wire inside as well if you dont have a distribution block to tap into in the car. Connect them to the toggle switch and you can now turn the pump on and off with the switch.
Here's the finished product:
Tip:
When you get the tubing all coiled around the pipe you want to freeze, tighten a band clamp on one side and tighten the coils to the pipe like you would a nut on a bolt. While holding it tight, tighten a clamp on the other end of the tubing!! This will keep the coils tightly wrapped together AND tight against the pipe!
Some of this is dummied down, but I copied and pasted from another site I'm on and you would be shocked at the questions people ask!
Here's the supplies:
20' of 1/4" Copper Tubing, (2) 20' rolls of 3/8" rubber or vinyl hose, 1/4" barb to barb fitting, (4) 3/8" band clamps, roll of 12-16 gauge wire, and a toggle switch. Cost = $45
We start the whole mess by removing the pipe you want to freeze. Uncoil the copper tubing loosely, dont try to straighten it out!! Hold it against the pipe and start winding it around. Take your time here and do your best to get it as tight as possible, both to the pipe and coil to coil.
Remove the washer reservoir filler neck. Drill a 1/4" hole in a place where some hose can be easily plumbed to. Then simply press in the barb fitting.
Connect 1 of the rolls of 3/8" hose to the barb fitting and run it thru a hole in the fender well. Re-install the filler neck.
Cut the washer fluid line that goes to your pissers. Using a 5/16" to 1/4" vacuum fitting, connect the line from the washer pump to the other roll of 3/8" hose.
Route them under the front of the car, this way you keep as much of the engine heat away as possible! Ziptie them up wherever possible so they dont sag and become an eyesore. Make sure you dont tighten the zipties to the point the block off the line!!
Route them up into the engine bay and try to keep them away from hot or moving parts!
Connect the 3/8" hoses to the copper tubing by simply sliding it over the copper tubing and then clamping them tight.
I dont have a pic for this part but lastly you need to make the power connections. Remove the connector from the washer pump and using an ohmeter, check which wire of the 2 is constant ground. Leave it connected and cut the remaining wire! Solder a 12-16 gauge wire to that wire and route it inside the car. Run a 12V wire inside as well if you dont have a distribution block to tap into in the car. Connect them to the toggle switch and you can now turn the pump on and off with the switch.
Here's the finished product:
Tip:
When you get the tubing all coiled around the pipe you want to freeze, tighten a band clamp on one side and tighten the coils to the pipe like you would a nut on a bolt. While holding it tight, tighten a clamp on the other end of the tubing!! This will keep the coils tightly wrapped together AND tight against the pipe!
Some of this is dummied down, but I copied and pasted from another site I'm on and you would be shocked at the questions people ask!
well, now that you've got this done you should hook up your pissers to another tank and have an intercooler sprayer
and when you get that done look on homemadeturbo.com and start on your water injection system...
and when you get that done look on homemadeturbo.com and start on your water injection system...
Turbo&Auto
Nick Go FAST!!
There's better ways, I'm sure. BUT for $45 it works damn good
I have a lot of heat on the pipe right there from being next to the motor and over top of the trans. This will combat the heat and keep things consistant at the track. I'm not expecting it will make 50hp or anything like that.
I have a lot of heat on the pipe right there from being next to the motor and over top of the trans. This will combat the heat and keep things consistant at the track. I'm not expecting it will make 50hp or anything like that.