Got a 91 civic hatch dx need help on swap

[kaoss]

I got a 91 civic hatch dx an im thinkin on a swap at first i wanted to do a b18 swap but everyone keep telling me to do that mini me swap what do u think would be good for this? If b18 wat would be everythin i need? If mini me wat would be everything i need for complete swap?

A lil help would be great thanks

also what tranny an best place online to shop for stuff

 

[sevenhillsbilly]

google is amazin
and so is the search button on hondaswap
that what i was told when i got here
but with the b18 your gunna need it all axles, hubs, engine, transmisson, mounts, harness, ecu, jumper hanesses and so on
the mini me it depends on what block you have but basically you need a head, jumper haness, ecu, o2 sensors, and an ecu
im doin the mini me on mine look at some of my threads

 

[D16SiHatch]

i've done the mini me and then gone to a b18b and i can tell you it is not worth the money you put into it. not to mention when you throw on a new head and brand new headgasket on these engines its very common for the bottom end to go out and soon enough you'll be blowin blue smoke like crazy. Not only have i read that this is common but i went ahead with the swap and it happened to me as well. Save yourself the frustration and money and just swap to a whole new engine.

for a b18 you'll need:

-B18 engine,trans, and ecu of choice
-90-93 Integra axles, 94+ pass axle abs,non-abs,auto,manual will also work
-90-93 integra MANUAL intermediate shaft
-Ecu conversion harness, rywire
-DA throttle cable
-shift linkages (hasport, avid, innovative, ebay)
-Motor mounts (see above^)
-90-93 b18 cable tranny speed sensor
-90-93 integra drivers side engine bracket (part that bolts to block, assuming you use a 94+ newer engine)
-90-93 integra rear transmission bracket, must be from a manual

If you go obd1 you'll need to remove your injector resistor box, and solder all 5 wires that went into it together. (4 red, 1 yellow) You could also just opt to use obd0 injectors and then you can retain the resistor box if you so choose.

You'll also need to pry the dust covers off the back of your hubs to make clearance for the axles so they dont bind. You can use your dx hubs just fine. the std/hf hubs are the ones which are different.

You need to extend the fan switch wires from back of the engine to the side of the head which is where the switch is located on b-series engines.

And lastly you'll need to make clearance for your alternator. The back edge of the pulley on the alt will hit the frame rail if you dont. there is a square shape hole in that area and 2 inches below that you need to bang in with a hammer.

 

[George777]

Depending how much money you want to spend will determine what you should get.

A B-series into an EF would cost around $2000-$3000 depending on how much you pay for everything. A Mini-me swap would cost a lot less...

 

[b20crx]

I would recommend a d16z6. A lot of your parts are interchangable and it is a relatively simple swap. That's why I chose it for my first swap. I originally wanted to go for a cr-vtech but after seeing how much was involved, I wanted to start simple and work my way up so the z6 will go in first and the b20 will be in my shop for a while. You can actually use your own transmission if you want, probably better to go with an si tranny though. You just need the new harness with the motor pretty much. However I suppose it's all relative to how much horse you want to push. The B-series is definately going to be your big power maker if your serious, but the d16z6 is a pretty decent motor and not too hard to track down. I found about 5 when I went to the junk yard to pluck mine.