Got my car dyno today = :(

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T

Teambypass

Senior Member
Finally got my car dyno today! here is the result.......190hp to the wheel and 134 torge----->sp???. I dont know how much HP to the crank....but people said, expect about 15% to 25% HP lost. If interest about my mods, red my signature. My compression test turn out to be 295 for all four cylinders. I builted this car to hit mid 13s and hopefully 190 ponies with 134 torge will do the job. commands are welcome and please no hurtful commands since I spend alot of money and times into this.....j/k...anything goes...
 
my car put down around 230 and ran low 13's. but hey you never know you just might get there.
 
all motor, the expensive way to go slow.

cars runs mid 14s with those numbers-- as a generality.

but yeah, those numbers are relaly fucking weak.

E put out about the same in his bone stock JDM ITR.

are you tuned? or is this a base line with a stock computer? cuz if so, your missnig out on a lot. if your cams are degreed properly, your missing out.
 
holy cripes....

i ran a mid 14 in a 89 hatchback with just i/h/e and a ZC


makes me wish i woulda bought my buddies 91 hb with b16 swap for only 1500.....
 
Just take out all those parts and tell them you want your money back! J/k Sounds like you're in need of a serious tune. You've got a lot of stuff going on there and if your ecu isn't told to take advantage of it, well its just parts moving in your motor. I'm pushing just about what you are on a stock 99 JDM ITR. I suck at drag so this may not be where the car should be, but I hit 14.4 at 97mph.
Good luck and keep your improvements posted.

edit I really should have read that post 2 posts up...said the exact same thing I just said. Oh well...two people think the same thing.
 
Originally posted by hybrid_b18@Jul 23 2004, 01:46 AM
I wanna know why you went with a walbro 190? isnt stock honda pumps 225 or 250? or is that just integras??
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neither. stock honda pumps are like an equiv to a 120 if not lower..
 
Originally posted by pheonixb16aguy@Jul 23 2004, 04:44 AM
haha sorry but you are full of shit maybe mid 14's with a zc that had i/h/e and a 75 shot .. my friend has a zc crx.. completly gutted and running slick .. he had a 60 ft of 2.3 and ran best he could puul of was a 15.4 .. he had i/h/e short throw shifter, slicks , race gas 100 octane is i remember right , i have a hb with a b16 with intake and exhaust and i have a b16 and can only pull off 14.8's and i'vee beatn a zc with i/h/e and a 45 shot .. so im ganna have to call ~*BULLSHIT*~ on this one !!!!
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your friend must such at driving if he gets 2.3 60's with slicks. the first time i ever went to the track i got 2.3 on street tires, and thats still bad. you cant call bullshit when you dont know all the facts. you might be at a higher elevation coulda been hot as hell when you friend went, too many variables....
 
Keep in mind that not all dynos are going to read the same HP. Which is why its better to compare before and after, lateral acceleration G's, and 1/4 mile times than peak HP/TQ numbers.

That said looking through your setup I have a few suggestions.

First and foremost you HAVE to pick parts that are designed to work TOGETHER. Do you think Ferrari, Porsche, lambo, etc randomly guesses what size cam lobes to use, how much compression, the size of their TB's, etc?

Of course not, its all very calculated, everything is designed to work efficiently for that engine. You have to do the same if you want to see power.

12.3:1 on stage 2 cams sounds like seriously undercaming the engine. I will have to look around for the ABDC spec on the stage 2's, but I know people running that much CR on toda spec c's.

The DC 4-2-1 has a 2" collector, not even a 2.25" (like most people think). This is going to SERIOUSLY bottleneck your exhaust. I would bet you have some nasty backpressure. Look into a header with a 2.5" collector.

The skunk2 IM is design for the ITR cams and powerband (as its mostly an ITR replica). If you want to use it with much more aggressive cams (like the S2S2's are) you either need a manifold with shorter runners, larger plenum, and larger runners, or to send that manifold to Energy Dynamics to have it cut open and hogged out.

Larry mentions he often removes 3lbs of material from those manifold to get them to flow for the high HP guys.
 
Originally posted by Tonyd0821@Jul 22 2004, 11:51 PM
holy cripes....

i ran a mid 14 in a 89 hatchback with just i/h/e and a ZC


makes me wish i woulda bought my buddies 91 hb with b16 swap for only 1500.....
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same here, my crx si w/ a dohc zc ran a 14.3 w/ intake, 8200revlimit chip and exhaust
 
hmm........like stated above, all dynos are different, and things like outside temp, and elevation come into place in final HP/TQ figures.

Also you need to tune out your Hondata for sure, and also your header/cat/exhaust should be upgrades to something with atleast a 2.5inch collector, you'll be surprised.
 
thanks for all the commands. with everything listed and untuned, I ran 14.5 on a G-tech. the dyno is done by using a dynojet and its tuned. the only thing that might be the cause of such low HP is that my timming belt only read 14.5 degree and cannot be turn any more. Everything is aline perfectly, nothing wrong with the timming belt, and the marks are right on target, but when using a timming gun to check, its only read 14.5 not 16.5. the tunner told me that my timming belt should be at 16.5. A guy I know have the same setup without skunk2 header and hondata he dyno and got 181hp and 128 torge and ran 13.6 on a 95 hatch. If this is true, I should run at least close to that mark. Anyway, only if iam not running at my stock 14.8 sec, then its all good to me.
 
haha sorry but you are full of shit maybe mid 14's with a zc that had i/h/e and a 75 shot .. my friend has a zc crx.. completly gutted and running slick .. he had a 60 ft of 2.3 and ran best he could puul of was a 15.4 .. he had i/h/e short throw shifter, slicks , race gas 100 octane is i remember right , i have a hb with a b16 with intake and exhaust and i have a b16 and can only pull off 14.8's and i'vee beatn a zc with i/h/e and a 45 shot .. so im ganna have to call ~*BULLSHIT*~ on this one !!!!
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Wahahahahaha!!!! Talk about a shitty driver...i hope that it was 130 at 10,000ft,
 
Originally posted by Teambypass@Jul 24 2004, 05:44 PM
thanks for all the commands. with everything listed and untuned, I ran 14.5 on a G-tech. the dyno is done by using a dynojet and its tuned. the only thing that might be the cause of such low HP is that my timming belt only read 14.5 degree and cannot be turn any more. Everything is aline perfectly, nothing wrong with the timming belt, and the marks are right on target, but when using a timming gun to check, its only read 14.5 not 16.5. the tunner told me that my timming belt should be at 16.5. A guy I know have the same setup without skunk2 header and hondata he dyno and got 181hp and 128 torge and ran 13.6 on a 95 hatch. If this is true, I should run at least close to that mark. Anyway, only if iam not running at my stock 14.8 sec, then its all good to me.
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The timing marks are on the crank pulley, not the timing belt itself. You are talking about ignition timing, which can be tuned with most system (EMS, E-manage, hondata) so it shouldn't matter what the limitations of the distributor is.
 
I already typed this same message and posted, but somehow its doesnt show so I will do it again. Once again thanks for all the commands. I will try to answer some of the guestions that had been raised. I obviousely did not do research regarding the spec of difference camshafts, however, I did do a little research in order to make my dicision on all interal Skunk2. Honda and Acura pumps are nothing close to 190 as walbro190, they are way lower. I could choose walbro 255, but since I have 370 cc rc and fuel rail to accomidate, thats why I choose walbro 190 instead. If I recall correctly from reading all the sports car magazine, GSR stock dyno to be around 140-160 and can hit mid 14s on a hatch as I did 14.6 not 14.8( I will change this in my signature). Also, WRXs dyno to be around 170-190 and did 14.2 at 1/4 mile. with 190 and 134 torge I should at least hit high 13s. I will keep you guys updated and tell you guys what I did after the race on the 1st of August. thanks for all the commands and please check in for my new post on what I did on the 1/4 mile. Oh, by the way, I did race an S2000 from 3rd gear on the freeway and "passe" him about 2 car lenght until we were stall buy trafic. I dont wanna call a kill but I will comfident that I would at least hang with it if not kill it.
 
remember, peak power means nothing, so even if you compaired a similar car (hint hint FWD) that both peak at 180 whp, and weigh the exact same, the two could be seconds apart in the quarter mile. Its all about the total area under the curve, and gearing to keep you in the bulk of that powercurve.

Also, GTECH-pro is a very shitty indication of your true quartermile times. Run it at the track. Whats $20 for a test and tune?
 
True, G-tech pro is not accurate and the best way is at the track. My cousin's civic 92 four doors B16 SIR ran 15.5 on a G-tech pro and he did 15 flat at the track. I will keep you guys posted and will post a dyno sheet if I can get it to come out clear enough on the picture. thanks
 
Originally posted by StyleTEG@Jul 24 2004, 10:58 PM
WRX's are AWD and can get launch's FWD guys can only dream about.
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*crack crack crack* broken tranny?
AWD sucks :p
 
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