Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by Xanatos, Jul 21, 2016.
Picked up the H23a last weekend. Now we just need a prelude tranny.
did you mean crack pipe?
@Briansol Yup. If you wanna edit the title be my guest I couldn't find a way to do it.
My friend found a Greddy H22 header and complete Megan exhaust for 80$ on craigslist... This will do much better than the eBay boltons he'd acquired previously.
Nice score! I would clean an inspect all welds on header (and exhaust) so they could be repaired before install (if needed).
Well. That was a fiasco of the century. Motor came out super easy. No real issues to speak of, broke one sensor on the intake manifold. Went to build the H23a and he had the wrong VC gasket, timing belt, distributor cap and rotor, header, etc. But, whatever, all stuff we can get from an auto parts store. So I popped the timing cover off and discovered the part of the block where the tensioner bolts to the block was snapped off. We discussed JB weld, or tapping the block even deeper and using a deeper bolt but ultimately we're gonna see if the company will honor their warantee. If they say we're SOL then we'll investigate. He said we may just bite the bullet and see if we can use the "Credit"? from the warantee and fill in the rest of the gap to land a Redtop H22a.
So the bolt-ons he got were for the accord motor so we're just gonna slap the car back together with the new fun bits, clutch kit, shorter geared tranny, so he has an improved car still.
Turns out the part that snapped off was actually part of the water pump so the motor is good.. that's a life saver. In any case we didn't have the right distributor or header so the swap couldn't go in this weekend.
So my schedule this friday/saturday/sunday
5:30pm-3:30am work on CD5 swap
11:30am-9:30am working on CD5
Sunday 4:30pm-11:30pm working on CD5
And he drove it away with a new clutch, header, exhaust and transmission that night. Got some videos up of the open Greddy header and then with the Megan exhaust, still F22b1 of course.
Only thing I hate about f/h cars are the non floating rotors soo 99% of the time they pulsate like crazy where they have been pad slapped 5 times , coming along nicely
Didn't take any pictures but I sold him some spare DC seats that match his interior. Had to do some modification to get the rails to fit, and even had to weld a bit. I love fabrication, and it bolts up and sits in the exact same spot as the original. The drivers seat is electric and it's busted so we're gonna try to find a LX rail/seat for me to fit to the DC.
Ratchet (impact driver recommended)
10, 12, 14mm sockets
Vice Grips (x2 pair)
Grinder (for grinding off hot-rivets)
Reamer (or other tool to widen steel holes with
For future reference it was actually not that hard... Maybe 2 hours invested including figuring out how to do it.
Removal plastic covers from both seats (phillips screws)
Unbolt DC sliders. The side with the seatbelt buckle can come all the way off, and just take the actual slider off the other side. Should be some 12mm and 14mm bolts. (won't be needing these rails any more)
Repeat above process on the CD seats, only instead of 12mm and 14mm bolts there will be 2 hot rivets (grind the heads off these and they will come off) and a 10mm nut. (remember you can leave the rails on the side with the seatbelt buckle)
Secure the CD5 seatbelt buckle and rail to the DC seat at TWO points. The 12mm nut going to the back of the chair, and the 14mm bolt at the front. Using your tool of choice (i used a reamer) widen the middle hole so it lines up with the hole on the DC seat. Use washers to set the gap (don't just torque a bolt in there and bend the rail) and insert the 14mm bolt.
This is where it gets fun.
Before you go to install the rail on the recliner side, mark where you will be welding but lining up like below and clean those spots to bare metal so the welds will take.
To install the rail on the recliner side line up the middle stud on the rail with the middle hole on the DC seat. Using a pair of vice grips clamp it in place so it's sitting straight and torque down the 10mm nut on the middle stud. You WILL NOT have access to the rear hole to weld. We will come back to this. Leaving the vice grip in place, you will see the holes where the old slider had bolts coming through. You will treat the front one like a spot weld. The rear one you have to physically weld the rails to each other from the side. Once the rail is secured in all 3 points (front spot weld, middle nut, rear side weld) i suggest tapping it with a hammer to check the strength of your welds.
Installing the seats...
Make sure the sliders are properly lined up and set them in the car. The holes will be close but ultimately not line up. Again, using a reamer or your widening tool of choice widen the holes LENGTHWISE until both rails line up evenly. You should have to take out a fair amount of metal but not a lot. If you get into the factory bends on the sides you did something wrong. Bolt down the front so the seat is sitting straight and repeat the process on the rear.
Ta-da! When I get the LX rails I'll document it with pictures. I had to figure this out as I went because I couldn't find a DC into CD chassis seat swap writeup so if anyone else wants to do it at least they'll have an idea of what is required.
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