1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

HELP!!! 1986 HF head gasket repair

Discussion in 'Civic and CRX - EW' started by 1986CRXHF, Sep 7, 2006.

  1. 1986CRXHF

    1986CRXHF New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Location:
    Vancouver,Wa.
    Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and new to Hondas also. Making a long story short: I got this 1986 CRX HF 5 speed from my brother. It starts up fine and runs but blows bubbles in the radiator, heats up, and loses water out of the radiator. Soooo, I've got to do a head gasket. I've done a head gasket on my old 2.5L Plymouth Reliant but have never done a Honda. I have a Haynes manual for it but wonder if there is any other better info to walk me through the process. I plan to replace the head gasket, valve cover gasket, timing belt, water pump, & ??? anything else needed to be replaced. Just a little nervous on doing the job and want all the help (hints) that I can get. 138,000 miles on the engine. Also leaking rain water into the hatch. No sunroof. Filling up with about a cup of water after raining. Replace gasket on tail lights? or another place? Also, anyone know what the engine is in this carbureted car(round air filter). Thanks for any info and help. Gary Vancouver,Wa.:huh:
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2006
  2. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

    Messages:
    21,056
    Likes Received:
    1,180
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2002
    Location:
    NY
    check for rust/rot around the hatch, do you have a sunroof? are the sunroof drains clean?

    could be taillight gaskets, how much water are you getting?

    i think you have all the basics, add a tensioner to your list and you're set
     
  3. 1986CRXHF

    1986CRXHF New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Location:
    Vancouver,Wa.
    No sunroof on 1986 CRX

    There isn't any sunroof on my CRX and I'm getting about a cup of water in the hatch after a rain shower. Also, don't really know the engine code of the engine. D15A2 or something?? I know it will be a gutless little car to drive but I'm more concerned with MPG than get up and go at this time. It has a 5 speed and 175/70-13 tires. I have to replace the tires too and adjust the clutch cable. Going to do an oil change after the head gasket, replace the plugs and maybe the plug wires, we'll see. Gary
     
  4. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

    Messages:
    21,056
    Likes Received:
    1,180
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2002
    Location:
    NY
    oil change is pretty much a MUST after a headgasket, especially if water has the potential to get into the oil, as it does when you remove a head...

    as far as tires, check your local junkyards for VW or honda wheels
    the first gen crx SI's have 14 wheels that will look better than steelies
    pretty much every honda civic had the 4x100 lug pattern, you can prob get rims and tires for 20 a piece? maybe 50 for a set up steelies with good tires...
     
  5. 1986CRXHF

    1986CRXHF New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Location:
    Vancouver,Wa.
    Engine code for 1986 CRX

    I found out the engine code is EW1-362799. It's a carbureted version with the round air filter. It's a 5 speed manual. Is it easier or cheaper to just replace the head gasket on it or replace with another engine? I'm going for MPG not HP, but both would be great. The car's odometer shows only 138,000 miles. Needs new tires and some interior work but has started fine in the past. Also, has anyone ever heard of Thermagasket or have used it? And, best/cheapest place for parts for this engine???Thanks, Gary
     
  6. Remedy

    Remedy New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2006
    Location:
    Nor Cal
    You won't likley find a used engine worth messing with for your car, just fix the one you have. You will love the mpg when its running again, the HP is not there its like 68hp or very close to it. If your engine is indeed the 12 valve carbed HF engine (D15A2 on mine), I just did the head gasket on one about 2 weeks ago. Since you will be removing all of your belts to get the head off, put all new on and like you said a new water pump (you get Honda parts if you want, avoid economy belts.. especially the timing belt). The 1.5L OEM headgasket is not terribly durable, I used a Victor Reinz which had much more metal around the cyliders especially in the hot spot between the 2 center cylinders where they are prone to fail. Got it from NAPA, the head set is about $85 and you will want many but not all of the gaskets in there. The hardest part was getting the aluminum block clean without contaminating the cyliders, the head went to the machine shop for test and surface. Anyway the head gasket fails because of high temp, I would consider a modest investment of about $300 for replacing cooling system components (Thermostat, hoses, pump, radiator, and of course fresh coolant) cheap insurance to keep your new gasket from blowing. If you take your head to a machinist (I strongly recommend you do so that you know the work you do doesn't need to be repeated a week later), give them the valve seals and cam seal from the headset, they will be pulling your cam anyway and may charge a bit extra or nothing more to do that work. Have them check and replace your exhaust studs or do it yourself, they fail (I had 2 broken) and it sux to be finishing the job up only to snap a stud at the end putting on your exhaust manifold.

    You will need to remove your exhaust manifold and for me that meant taking the cat off because they are bolted to each other and the manifold brackets are not accessable until the cat was off. after you get the exhaust man off you will have easy access to the water jacket (block) drain plug. Leave the intake manifold bolted to the head until the head gasket is broken free, then just unbolt it from the head and leave it in the engine compartment. You will have to unbolt the intake manifold from a bracket on the back of the block before you will be able to move it or the head.

    Change your PCV while the intake manifold is loose, its a real pain otherwise. Other than oil + oil and air filter I would say do the cap/rotor, plugs (ngk or denso only) and wires... catch the fuel filters (2) while your at it. Dont forget to check/adjust the valves at the end. If your Bro is like mine, none of that stuff got done


    Good luck, hope this helps
     
  7. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

    Messages:
    24,577
    Likes Received:
    696
    Joined:
    May 20, 2003
    Location:
    Central, MA
    another thing to think about would be head studs. you have to replace the three torque to yield studs.

    honda dealer.
     
  8. 1986CRXHF

    1986CRXHF New Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Location:
    Vancouver,Wa.
    1986 crx hf head gasket

    Thanks for all the great info everyone. I just have to muster up the nerve to dig into it. I have a Haynes repair manual for it and a few copies of schematics I got from the library when I went there to copy some of their reference books. I've got a good roll of masking tape to mark the parts as they come off so hopefully I'll be OK. When I do the job, I plan replacing all the parts you mentioned. Thanks again, Gary Vancouver,Wa.
     
  9. Remedy

    Remedy New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2006
    Location:
    Nor Cal

    You know what? I read and asked around for a solid week before I just reused the old bolts/studs. All I could find was that TTY applications are identified by a torque sequence followed by an addition of 1/4 or more turns past that level. Maybe I misunderstood, but the bolts are definatly special and expensive for a 1 use item at about $15 each.

    Anyway, I kinda left out the part about the crank pulley being the tightest bolt on the car (actually the axle nuts are but they come off much easier). Take your old alternator belt and cut it to fit the pulley and tape it in place, this will give you something to grip. Next take a nylon/poly tie down strap and put one end on the pulley. wrap the pulley about 3 times in the clockwise direction and then tie the other end to the axle. It might slip a bit at first but then it will bind up and allow you to get that bolt out. Reverse this to re torque it later. I used a 1/2"breaker bar w/ 2' handle to get it loose. Good luck
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2006
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page