How to make power in my b18 c type R ???

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elsombradelsol said:
How is it that nobody has mentioned FI yet? I have a ITR and it has responded very well to boost, i'm making 300 to the wheels on all stock internals. SC's also do pretty well. If FI isn't an option, the N/A build is always there, but pretty expensive for low gains. Don't forget, the ITR has SOME of the best parts on it already. A lot of other companies use the profile from the ITR cams for aftermarket ones. And the OEM intake and exhaust manifolds beat out a lot of aftermarket ones as well.
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yea I realized that the type R motor already has some of the best components , so thats mainly why i asked this question, so thanks for clearing that up

and by FI you mean forced induction right , i always thought that high compression motors such as the b18c5 type R , were unable to run boost (turbo)on stock internals, and that in order to run boost you needed low compression pistons and some other stuff to make it possible,

So what kind of FI system are you running, and how much psi ?

oh and thanks for your reply by the way ;)
 
Yeah FI is forced induction, I just started forum hopping recently so i'm not down with all the forum lingo either.
Here's the deal. My goal was to keep my internals stock because, if I wanted to boost high numbers, I'd have just gotten a GSR and stuffed it with internals. I wanted to keep my engine rare and OEM on the inside. Most bolt on kits make about 75-90 on stock internals. With internals it's limitless. The company I went through gained me 133 WHP on 8.5lbs of boost with stock inernals. If you get a minute check out my guy's company, it's rediculously impressive what he can do. LHT Performance, Honda & Acura engine conversions Mine is the 400 series kit.
Just take a look at some of the kits and dynos he's got. They're not cheap, but he's reliable and he wields HUGE numbers, I thought it was very worth it. There's also high compression SCs (super chargers) for engines like ours, they don't make as much power of course, but it's all about goals and driver preferences. Before I was going with my setup, I was looking hard at Vortech's Centrifugal SC. The most you're going to see safely on stock internals will be just shy of 300 with any set up. If you lower your compression you can boost really high, but if you were going to do that, just get a GSR, they're cheaper and the same engine as the type R except for the head and the pistons, and you're going to be changing all that if you build anyways. Let me know what you decide to go with, I'm very interested. If you have any questions just shoot them my way.
Also if you want the full list of what's in my car, check out my other page.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2501309
 
elsombradelsol said:
Yeah FI is forced induction, I just started forum hopping recently so i'm not down with all the forum lingo either.
Here's the deal. My goal was to keep my internals stock because, if I wanted to boost high numbers, I'd have just gotten a GSR and stuffed it with internals. I wanted to keep my engine rare and OEM on the inside. Most bolt on kits make about 75-90 on stock internals. With internals it's limitless. The company I went through gained me 133 WHP on 8.5lbs of boost with stock inernals. If you get a minute check out my guy's company, it's rediculously impressive what he can do. LHT Performance, Honda & Acura engine conversions Mine is the 400 series kit.
Just take a look at some of the kits and dynos he's got. They're not cheap, but he's reliable and he wields HUGE numbers, I thought it was very worth it. There's also high compression SCs (super chargers) for engines like ours, they don't make as much power of course, but it's all about goals and driver preferences. Before I was going with my setup, I was looking hard at Vortech's Centrifugal SC. The most you're going to see safely on stock internals will be just shy of 300 with any set up. If you lower your compression you can boost really high, but if you were going to do that, just get a GSR, they're cheaper and the same engine as the type R except for the head and the pistons, and you're going to be changing all that if you build anyways. Let me know what you decide to go with, I'm very interested. If you have any questions just shoot them my way.
Also if you want the full list of what's in my car, check out my other page.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2501309
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Ok will do , a supercharger doesnt sound like a bad idea , no lag too !,

yea im pritty sure im goin with the itr, its just a much stronger engine , and its pritty much made for racing .

so you already have and itr i see, Nice , in a del sol , nice and lite , im about to get a 94 si hatch with a itr swapped , perfect so i found someone with the same engine as me with the same intentions , let me know how that turbo goes
and thanks for the info
 
welcome to the family!

SunShine00 said:
Ok will do , a supercharger doesnt sound like a bad idea , no lag too !,

yea im pritty sure im goin with the itr, its just a much stronger engine , and its pritty much made for racing .

so you already have and itr i see, Nice , in a del sol , nice and lite , im about to get a 94 si hatch with a itr swapped , perfect so i found someone with the same engine as me with the same intentions , let me know how that turbo goes
and thanks for the info
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I think you made a wise choice with the ITR, you always get respect just for having one. I'd have people drooling when i was rolling with a stock ITR and i was only making 170 to the wheels! If you plan on going with the ITR, i HIGHLY suggest you get hondata S-300. It's the best buy i made(and i've made a lot of good buys on my car). It already has a tuning set up for the stock ITR so you can play with it from there. It's a little bit pricey, but it does everything you need guranteed! Also if your going to be making more power, check out gator axles, they hold way more power than they say they do, PLUS they have a lifetime warantee, even if you're racing on 'em. Let me know what path you decide to go with for the ITR.
 
elsombradelsol said:
I think you made a wise choice with the ITR, you always get respect just for having one. I'd have people drooling when i was rolling with a stock ITR and i was only making 170 to the wheels! If you plan on going with the ITR, i HIGHLY suggest you get hondata S-300. It's the best buy i made(and i've made a lot of good buys on my car). It already has a tuning set up for the stock ITR so you can play with it from there. It's a little bit pricey, but it does everything you need guranteed! Also if your going to be making more power, check out gator axles, they hold way more power than they say they do, PLUS they have a lifetime warantee, even if you're racing on 'em. Let me know what path you decide to go with for the ITR.
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Aliright , i picked up the itr yesterday , its a 96 euro spec, it redlines at like 8900, same as the jdm, im running it in a eg si hatch, you said your making 170 at the wheels , mine has like 70 000 k on the motor, plus it has a dc header, and a cone intake , so i hope im making 170 at the wheels , but i guess ill never know until i dyno it , Also i was wondering being that it has 70 000 k on the motor , if i should look into replacing the seals and rings and other restoritive measures to restore stock power ? or do you think its unnessisary ?
 
Wow, i have to say , that itr motor is a work of art, the more i drive it the more i love it , and you would think that with only 134lbs of tourque you would have poor mid range power , but most of the time you dont even need to hit vtec to power past other cars , I dont even like getting out of it at all, If you havent all ready , you must try driving a hatch with this motor in it , i recomend it to anyone who loves Honda's
 
SunShine00 said:
Wow, i have to say , that itr motor is a work of art, the more i drive it the more i love it , and you would think that with only 134lbs of tourque you would have poor mid range power , but most of the time you dont even need to hit vtec to power past other cars , I dont even like getting out of it at all, If you havent all ready , you must try driving a hatch with this motor in it , i recomend it to anyone who loves Honda's
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Tell me about it! And when VTEC hits it's like nothing i've ever felt! I just love the sound change! When I first got mine in my sol, I ran open headers until the muffler shop opened on monday, when the headers dumped right under your feet it sounded like a fricking race car when VTEC hits. It was like, BaaaaaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!! I used to scare the cars next to me when their windows were down! LOL! There's plenty of tourque for a 1.8 litre engine, i would lose traction when VTEC engaged in first gear if i rolled on it. I have 18x7.5 rims and they're not very light. I was floored with amazement. If you think it's powerful now, wait until you boost it. I wanted to do an N/A build on mine, but you can only get certain parts, Spoon, JUN, Mugen, Toda, and they're all really expensive for not a very high HP gain. N/A you can't really get over 250WHP and it'll cost you like 20 thousand to get there!!! It wouldn't be worth it if it isn't for the 14,000RPM redline you get from all those expensive parts! How much power are you planning on gaining out of this motor?
 
elsombradelsol said:
Tell me about it! And when VTEC hits it's like nothing i've ever felt! I just love the sound change! When I first got mine in my sol, I ran open headers until the muffler shop opened on monday, when the headers dumped right under your feet it sounded like a fricking race car when VTEC hits. It was like, BaaaaaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!! I used to scare the cars next to me when their windows were down! LOL! There's plenty of tourque for a 1.8 litre engine, i would lose traction when VTEC engaged in first gear if i rolled on it. I have 18x7.5 rims and they're not very light. I was floored with amazement. If you think it's powerful now, wait until you boost it. I wanted to do an N/A build on mine, but you can only get certain parts, Spoon, JUN, Mugen, Toda, and they're all really expensive for not a very high HP gain. N/A you can't really get over 250WHP and it'll cost you like 20 thousand to get there!!! It wouldn't be worth it if it isn't for the 14,000RPM redline you get from all those expensive parts! How much power are you planning on gaining out of this motor?
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WHAT, you boosted yours already ?

well i want 300 whp in my hatch , now i may supercharge this motor when i have the money, or i may jus try to sell this motor and maby turbo a b16a2, but not sure which would be cheaper, how much did it cost in total to supercharge you ITR?

but yea in first gear if you go mid power , then puch it when v tec hits my whole dash and wheel jumps around , but the sound of vtec from that engine is like no other ,
my vtec hits a 6000rpm, im not sure if i should get it tuned and set vtec at 5000 or 5500, or if i should jus buy a vtec controler ?
 
You need to think of what rpm range are you most likely to drive at. If you are going to be in the upper rpm range most of the time then go for a turbo because superchargers kind of crap up at high rpms. If you are sticking to mostly low rpms then you should go with a supercharger because turbos aren't as efficient at lower rpms. To sum it up if you want good power at lower rpms then supercharge and if you want good power at higher rpms then turbo away my friend.

The question is now which supercharger or turbo do you want. If you are on a budget then go junkyard diving looking for a Turbo Eclipse about 93-98 it should have a 16g and is decent for high compression motors. Saab also uses a good turbo which you can utilize for this project. (Yes there are probably going to be comments on my choice but if you can think of a better one then suggest it and quit your bitching)

For superchargers I suggest ProChargers Centrifugal supercharger. Its reliable and can provide you with a significant amount of power at low psi. For either method get an intercooler and I would R&R any used engine I buy. When you pay good money always protect your investment, this way you know that it won't break. Also you don't know what abuse that engine has seen even though it has low mileage and if you drive aggressively it may not like it.
 
Blanco said:
If you want to turbo a B16, why did you waste money on a B18C5?

Leave the VTEC crossover where Honda put it. If you move it, VTEC might feel like it's "kicking harder" but that means that the crossover point is incorrect and that you're losing power. The reason is this. There are two separate cam profiles on each cam, the low lobe and the high lobe. The low lobe makes power to a certain point and the crossover point is set, on a dyno, just before that low lobe stops making power. This keeps the power curve smooth.
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lol, that must sound real funny, i was jus talking about how i liked the type R , and now im talking about selling it for a b16, i dont know jus a thought, its just a back up plan i guess

No i bought the car with the motor in it already, but the guy i bought it from had both motors the b20 b16 head, and the b18c5, and i had a choice between the 2, and it was only 500 dollars more for the b18c5
 
nvrenough2 said:
You need to think of what rpm range are you most likely to drive at. If you are going to be in the upper rpm range most of the time then go for a turbo because superchargers kind of crap up at high rpms. If you are sticking to mostly low rpms then you should go with a supercharger because turbos aren't as efficient at lower rpms. To sum it up if you want good power at lower rpms then supercharge and if you want good power at higher rpms then turbo away my friend.

The question is now which supercharger or turbo do you want. If you are on a budget then go junkyard diving looking for a Turbo Eclipse about 93-98 it should have a 16g and is decent for high compression motors. Saab also uses a good turbo which you can utilize for this project. (Yes there are probably going to be comments on my choice but if you can think of a better one then suggest it and quit your bitching)

For superchargers I suggest ProChargers Centrifugal supercharger. Its reliable and can provide you with a significant amount of power at low psi. For either method get an intercooler and I would R&R any used engine I buy. When you pay good money always protect your investment, this way you know that it won't break. Also you don't know what abuse that engine has seen even though it has low mileage and if you drive aggressively it may not like it.
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ok , so what kind of r&r (restore and repair?) would you sudgest to do ?

and thanks for the reply ;)
 
if you're gonna boost anything.. make it a GSR motor.. the price difference between teh type r swap and a GSR swap could get you almost a complete turbo kit
 
I would suggest just making sure that, if and when you strap a supercharger or turbocharger on, that you know your gaskets can handle it. Like I said if you are going to spend the money protect that investment. Just new gasket and inspect the internals, when you start making the hp thats when stuff likes to come undone. I have learned my lesson with that.
 
gaskets eh, yea i think i already have a bit of a leak, where the head and the block meet, i noticed the other day a bit of moisture trickling down the side , but i just changed the oil and filter on it so maby i jus spilled a lil while adding oil ,
 
im not sure if its the valve cover, its leaking right above where the badgings are on the block (b18c) , to the left of where the headers bolt up standing at the front of the car , i see a little bit of oil , is that the head gasket ?
 
if it were the head gasket there would be coolant in the oil and you'd be blowing white smoke everywhere.. could be the vtec solenoid gasket
 
yea i wiped it up yesterday, so now im just waiting to see if i see some more , and if i do then im probobley gona need some sort of new gasket ?
 
You could have a blown head gasket and not have coolant in the oil. Just keep an eye on the engine and you should be fine.
 
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