I'm very new
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defently. There pretty much isn't a single job on a honda that you can not follow if you have that book. It is a great tool to have, and even when you have a decent amount of experience, you'll still refer to it everyonce in a while. Also, it has every trq value for every part on the car, and you won't have to look at some gay table to find it. Its where you would expect it, on the same pages as the ones your doing the job on.
^nice.
Well it sounds like I'll be getting that manual.
By the way, for oil changes--how am I gonna jack the car up, I don't have the equipment. I know I sound like an idiot here, but hey we all start somewhere. Haha
Wouldn't it be basically the same price to just have Honda change the oil instead of me buying it and all that? Tell them to only change the oil and it shouldn't cost a lot like what $25. And buying 4 quarts of the right oil and a filter is about that anyway.
Maybe I'm way off here.
I just don't know where to start, but i guess i'll start with that manual and then check otu all those other things that were listed.
Well it sounds like I'll be getting that manual.
By the way, for oil changes--how am I gonna jack the car up, I don't have the equipment. I know I sound like an idiot here, but hey we all start somewhere. Haha
Wouldn't it be basically the same price to just have Honda change the oil instead of me buying it and all that? Tell them to only change the oil and it shouldn't cost a lot like what $25. And buying 4 quarts of the right oil and a filter is about that anyway.
Maybe I'm way off here.
I just don't know where to start, but i guess i'll start with that manual and then check otu all those other things that were listed.
oil changes for me cost around 13 ($8 in oil 4 qts of Castrol GTX 10w30, and 5 or so for the Prolator pureone filter). That $12 in saving each time (multiply that times 10 or so oil changes that I have done myself), plus, I know that the job is getting done right.
Short story. My freind with his old integra, only had cam gears and cut timing cover to show them off at that time (set to stock settings) went to a local honda dealer for an oil change. Drives home afterwards, 26 miles later, the engine blows. First thing he does is check the dip stick. Things dry. He complains, and said that honda did nothing wrong, they Did put oil in, however because of his cam gears, the car majicly burned 4 qts of oil in 26 miles, even though he had been running the cam gears for 1000's of mile with zero oil loss. He fought and fought with honda, even with letters to the national headquarters, everyone at honda tried to save there ass and said they were not at fault.
As for jacking up the car, underneith the radaitor core support, there is a little buldge in the metal the hangs down, and there may be parts of the spash gaurd missing. Place a floor jack underthere and raise the car. Then, with some jack stands, set them under the pinch welds on the side of the car, right behind the front tire well (there will be a small arrow pointing to them in the plastic side skirt under the car). Place them under, then lower the jack so the car rests on the pinch welds.
Short story. My freind with his old integra, only had cam gears and cut timing cover to show them off at that time (set to stock settings) went to a local honda dealer for an oil change. Drives home afterwards, 26 miles later, the engine blows. First thing he does is check the dip stick. Things dry. He complains, and said that honda did nothing wrong, they Did put oil in, however because of his cam gears, the car majicly burned 4 qts of oil in 26 miles, even though he had been running the cam gears for 1000's of mile with zero oil loss. He fought and fought with honda, even with letters to the national headquarters, everyone at honda tried to save there ass and said they were not at fault.
As for jacking up the car, underneith the radaitor core support, there is a little buldge in the metal the hangs down, and there may be parts of the spash gaurd missing. Place a floor jack underthere and raise the car. Then, with some jack stands, set them under the pinch welds on the side of the car, right behind the front tire well (there will be a small arrow pointing to them in the plastic side skirt under the car). Place them under, then lower the jack so the car rests on the pinch welds.
i wouldn't recommend using synthetic oil with that many miles on your car... i took a program in college done by castrol oil on synthetic oils a while back and i specifically remeber them not recommending to use it on a engine that had been using regular oil with that many miles already on it.
DeeJay
DeeJay
Thx for the tips asmallsol. That sucks about dude's teg, but in my case everything's stock so I would feel a bit safer...but i totally would feel skeptical.. i'll try doin it myself but i'll probably take it in too at some point, at least to see whats wrong with that rear seatbelt. pissedoffsol said its covered by a lifetime honda warranty so i just take it in and its free?? i learn something new every day.
deejay that makes sense... and i dont know what oil was used in the past. I do know the guy was up on things, and took extremely good care of it. but we cant assume anything about the oil. yeah i dont know.
honestly i still cant figure everything out about the alarm thats installed either. its a clifford one, and basically i can arm/disarm it fine and the guy told me about some other stuff with it but i forgot. i mean i feel foolish but oh well.
deejay that makes sense... and i dont know what oil was used in the past. I do know the guy was up on things, and took extremely good care of it. but we cant assume anything about the oil. yeah i dont know.
honestly i still cant figure everything out about the alarm thats installed either. its a clifford one, and basically i can arm/disarm it fine and the guy told me about some other stuff with it but i forgot. i mean i feel foolish but oh well.
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi+Jul 30 2004, 06:21 PM-->
beer bongs work especially well for thisyou may need to make the tip at the end of the hose smaller though if its a big hose.
[post=370506]Quoted post[/post]
As for bringing it up to operating temp, the reason that it's a good idea is because when the oils hot, it is thinner, and flows easier. This makes the oil come out faster, which not only shortens the time, it also gets more contaminates that may have settled towards the bottom of the pan, out. This was the way that I was tought by my auto teacher back in Highschool. Also, the filter is in the center of the engine, and the header runs more right of that. Burns have never been a problem when it come to that.
Ian, don't ruin a beer bong! Autozone has transmission funnels for 1.99, that are basicly just miny beer bongs, and they work great.
on a stock car it might not be that big of an issue but theres not exactly a lot of room under the hood in my car
. theres almost no way to get the filter off without touching the exhaust pipe for me. and when taking the pan bolt off, its its hot i tend to drop it in the oil bucket from it being hot. then i gotta fish the damn thing out. and dont worry about the beer bong, i got plenty of them anyway