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JDM B20Vtec Build

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by DanTheHondaMan, Dec 5, 2016.

  1. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    So heres a link to my car and motor:

    http://hondaswap.com/threads/civic-2000-with-jdm-swap.529062/

    Now I was told this motor was built however we haven't opened up so moving forward I'm going to treat it as an unbuilt motor til I know otherwise.

    With that being said I have been doing some research on how much it would cost to properly built my motor to handle 25lbs of boost making somewhere between 450whp - 550whp or even maybe somewhere in the 600s depending.

    I have found anywhere between $2000 - $3000

    However I called CFT (central florida turbo) and asked them how much they would charge to build it if we find out its got stock internals they told me for my numbers $2500 built and installed, labor and all.

    My question is this a realistic number to budget for?

    What are you experiences with having your motors built?

    And yes I am building for boost. No offense to anyone but I would never put $10k in a motor for it to remain N/A. But thats just me.

    anyways lmk what you think and what I should expect.

    as far as parts are concerned I am thinking forged eagle rods, forged pistons (haven't decided on a brand yet, could use a good recommendation) arp bolts, skunk2 2s cams, upgrade the entire valvetrain, PnP the head, skunk2 im, skunk2 70mm tb.

    possibly thinking about an over bore not sure how much and I am playing with the possibility of getting the block sleeved as well. which is around $1000 from what I could find.

    anything I'm missing from my list? would love some good quality suggestions. I want to build my motor right and to last the first time, would like to enjoy it for the next 5 years or more if possible.
     
  2. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    If you have very high goals, i would not use eagle rods. 350 ish is about the safe limit of those, mostly on the bolt side of things. Use something beefier, like manley or pauter.

    sleeves, a must on a b20 at this power level if you want it to last 5 years. it's already 84mm and the sleeves are thin on these blocks. i wouldn't say more than 350 is going last too too long, so if you want it done right, do it right the first time. i wouldn't bother with an over-bore. Staying 84 gives you a chance if something goes wrong to go to 84.5 later. if you're already 84.5, your block is done.
    pistons, anything forged that nets you in the 9.5:1 CR range is probably good (and make sure you are using the proper head and hg thickness to compute that ratio of what you need the piston to be)

    i wouldn't bother with too much head work either... a set of ITR cams/retainers/springs and the skunk2 IM are probably all you need to do. heck, stock GSR cams can get into the 500's pretty easily. consider this a phase 2 effort if you are not happy with how fast the car is later (and you probably will be, so.....)

    it really comes down to a proper manifold to spool a proper sized turbo (and not some ebay crap) with proper fueling and fuel management, and of course supporting mods like 3" exhaust, catch cans, cooling, etc.

    CFT has a good rep, and i'd trust their work if it's anything like it was 10 years ago when I was more active in the scene and following shops like theirs.
    rods, pistons, bearings, install, i would put at 1200-1500 depending on parts. That assumes an empty block and no machine work. honing, and other options will add to the cost.

    also consider your use for the car. 600 on the street is basically useless. 600 at the track, there's rules of how you can build it and if you don't follow just 1 thing, you won't be competitive because you will get pumped into pro classes.
     
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  3. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    I was planning on doing 10:1 pistons
    (Is that too much)

    Should I get my block honed and blueprinted?

    I'm ganna be using a 6266 precision turbo. with dual wastegate outlets off of a ram horn turbo header. Kit comes with full 3inch exhaust, skunk2 im, 70mm tb, 3inch downpipe, front mount intercooler, all the piping and oil lines ect ect ect. All for 2200. The kit was on a track car that made 560whp

    Turbo has been rebuilt brand new guy has all the receipts to prove it.

    I would be happy if I made into the 500s somewhere.

    Pauter's are a little pricey but if thats what I need to make it reliable then I will get those. I've seen some reviews on them they come highly recommended.

    Guess I should pick up a catch can while I'm at it too.

    So lets say I did pauters and like weisco pistons and everything else we discusse


    You think I could get away with $3000 for all parts and labor? If I sleeve the block thats ganna cost an extra $1000 at least
     
  4. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Just an FYI I'm going to have a budget of about $9,000.00

    I would like to soend less if possible but I do not want to sacrifice quality or reliability/dependability.

    Also to mention this is a project car. Its NOT my daily driver.

    And I want to get it painted and the windows and sunroof resealed with new weather stripping. Its got a small leak somewhere where the rain gets in. I haven't pin pointed it yet though so I figured I just replace it all.
     
  5. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    Brian summed it up perfectly, and dont get ahead of yourself with hopee and dreams talk man work with what you have and go from there each step of the way
     
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  6. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    the CR of the piston itself needs to be trued up against the head, Combustion chamber quench area, head gasket thickness, etc to get the TOTAL compression of your build.
    10:1 is a bit on the high side, in my opionion. Yes, it will make more power, but you need to be DEAD on with your tune, especially in part throttle (hard)
    you're better off sleeving it instead...
    sounds pretty good.
    I would sleeve the block over most everything else besides the rods.... the b20 sleeves are a weak link.
    You'll likely bust a sleeve before you bust a piston, in fact.

    having a shop do it all will significantly increase your costs.

     
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  7. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    So are you saying that I should basically just focus on pistons, rods, sleeving and tuning?

    From what I read thats what it sounds like.
     
  8. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I agree with B. One part he stressed is the current bore size. if it's already been built (like you already think) and it's been bored to 84.5.....then the block shouldn't be used to put new pistons in because the B20 is already thin walled. if it's sitting stock size (84) then you're fine to build that bottom end. And, yes, sleeve it. Or get a few LS bottom ends and have some fun in between motor replacements.
     
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  9. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    Yes they are correct, stay stock bore if can and sleeve the block anything over 250whp
     
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  10. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Alright so I need to find out for sure if its built or not (obviously). And if its not built I need to plan on pauter rods, wiseco pistons, sleeve the block, and if I have enough left over in my budget PnP the head and valves, springs and retainers.

    I understand how motors work, how boost works, and how it all goes together ect... But I do not trust myself nor do I have the experience to build my own motor unfortunately. So I will have to have CFT build it and tune it for me. I have a general idea and somewhat good understanding how tuning works but again I don't have the experience to do it myself.

    After I get the motor done I'm going to have CFT build it and Tune it on their dyno. I gatta leave enough in my budget to buy hondata which is what I'm going to use and have them install it and tune it and I'm ganna have to have enough left over for injectors and different odds and ends ect...


    I was hoping to have enough left over to have it painted but its looking more and more like thats not ganna happen.
     
  11. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Guys I need you help!

    We got the car on the street motor running and everything!!! But!

    There's an issue with the tranny! I have a GSR tranny but now it won't go into 3rd AT ALL and grinds to HELL AND BACK in 4th gear!

    1st gear, 2nd gear, and 5th gear and reverse work seamlessly with no issues! Its only 3rd and 4th that are the issue


    So now its looks like I'm ganna have to buy another GSR SMH! Any ideas you guys and do you know anyone selling a GSR?
     
  12. Xanatos

    Xanatos Village Idiot VIP

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    I'd rebuild the one you have.

    You can never be certain if a used transmission will actually be in good working order. Unless you can actually drive the car and make sure its fine. I also suggest using OEM Honda parts for the rebuild, aftermarket stuff is hit and miss.
     
  13. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    trans prob needs new syncros , to tell if engine has aftermarket pistons get a video bore-scope and stick down in cylinder
     
  14. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Well I have done some research. I've got 2 options, I found someone that has a GSR Tranny with quaife LSD for $850 guy swears up and down that it is almost mint conditions no grinding nothing. My other option is to take my current tranny local to Mr. Transmission. They quoted me approx $2600.00 however could be a little less or a little more, this price includes buying and installing quaife lsd. So $1600 + $1000 for the quaife.


    What do you guys think I should do?
     
  15. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    does a bear shit in the woods ? buy the $850 one and set your other to the side to rebuild if needed later, could reuse quaife
     
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  16. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    gsr w/ Q for 850 is a steal IMO. it's just gotta be legit. Ask for receipts/etc.
     
  17. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    I'm going to pick it up right now. I will let you know how things turn out later. Thanks so much for your responses!!!!
     
  18. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    It definitely has LSD. Not sure if its a quaife but you can see straight through the axle holes. And its a GSR tranny.

    On the way home now. I will try to get some pictures of it later.

    From what I could tell he seemed like he was telling the truth but he bought it from a friend of his so he didn't have receipts

    Luckily I knew what to look for.

    But I will never do business with him again because he said he would sell a b20 block with gsr head for $250 and got there and said he had another guy coming Saturday to pay $500 for it. So he lied to me on that front. Had I not known what to look for I would have walked away.

    Man I hate liars.

    But if the tranny works I made out pretty good overall.

    I just hope the tranny works good. I will know by Saturday. We will have it in by then.
     
  19. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    trans or transmission not tranny lol
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 9, 2016
  20. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    LoL!!!!


    That is hilarious!!!!!!
     
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