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Jdm H22 In 4th Gen Civic?

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by the_virginia_dude, Feb 4, 2003.

  1. the_virginia_dude

    the_virginia_dude Junior Member

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    Was wondering if anyone has done this. Saw mounts on HCP website this week. Never knew it was possible. H22 is cheaper than a B18C too. I tried search, New here, longtime member on Honda-tech board. this is to replace a ZC swap in an '89 DX hatch.
     
  2. paragus

    paragus Senior Member

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    dude.. i dont see those mounts.. show me a link if you see them.. all i see is EG and EK h22 mounts on hcpengineering.com, and nobody has done that swap on this site.. to my knowledge
     
  3. chet

    chet Senior Member

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    it can be done, but is a headache.

    go with a gsr motor, build it, and you'll go low 13's.

    the h22a was meant for a prelude and or accord, not a civic.
     
  4. MaaseyRacer

    MaaseyRacer Senior Member

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    placeracing makes a mount kit for the h22 in a 4th gen.
     
  5. the_virginia_dude

    the_virginia_dude Junior Member

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    I'll have to look for it. Maybe it was just a place that resold HCP mounts. But it surprised the hell out of me because I never thought it would fit physically. Problem I have with building a GSR motor is cash. Not enough of it. Big mortgage and selfish wife. a '94 B18C1 GSR engine is too pricey for me. and a B18C5 is just something im my wettest dreams at over $5,000. And a B16A1 is fun but I do a lot of stop and go driving and it is a gutless wonder in those conditions. I drove another '89 DX hatch with one in it. Want more torque than that has to offer, but want to spend less than $3,000 total. THis car is a daily driver and I have to keep it resonible in cost. Keep in mind I am running a ZC twin cam with ZC trans at this moment. Which runs like a top with no problems. And this is all in an '89 DX hatch.
     
  6. paragus

    paragus Senior Member

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    not to kill your dreams.... but its very easy to spend more than 3,000 on a h22 swap. just to give you an idea im doing this swap in my car 93 hatch.. and this is what ive spent so far.

    motor $ 1850 (considered a good deal)
    mounts $ 550
    FAL slim fan $ 200
    shift linkage $ 60 (most people wanted $150+)
    little sensors and misc shit $ 100

    to a total of $2760 i still need axles and i still want to replace little things like plugs, wires, water pump, timing belt, etc. And im going to be getting a ACT clutch and DSS axles to a ring about $900ish and a DC header $350ish, and with that shit it puts me easily over $4000. Now you dont need to get a ACT clutch and DSS axles.. but since it is your daily driver wouldnt you feel better knowing that you replaced a lot of the shit?? Instead of shit just breaking on you because you have no idea of what that motor has gone through. IMO just take your time.. i had my swap planned out for next month.. but i decided i want the clutch, axles, and the header.. so it pushes me back till whenever.. just take your time and do it right.. and hide stuff from your wife :D
     
  7. 98HB

    98HB Junior Member

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    Everyone has their own oppinion on what a swap should go into but, I think that if you can put it in then go for it. By the way if you know what your doing it's not a headache.
     
  8. mwasnp

    mwasnp Senior Member

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    Just an idea but for around $3k or a titch more you could turbo your zc, prolly get like 225hp/160tq to the ground with good tuning. www.ks-motorsports.com has a kit that runs right around $3k with hondata. Estimate maybe another $250 or so for dyno time and your car would haul ass.
     
  9. the_virginia_dude

    the_virginia_dude Junior Member

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    Well I am quite good mechanically, just am not an authority on hondas. Extent of my honda knowledge has been building this car. Bought a DX with a huge dent on the drivers side (gas filler door area was shoved in 4 inches) bad engine and nasty seatsfor $350. So first thing I did was swap in a ZCengine and trany, made a new harness myself (amazingly simple if you plan it out well as I did) yanked the old engine and trany put the new ones in after I put new clutch, seals, gaskets, water pump, timing belt and tune up. All with no assistance or help. outside of online. And it worked the first try. and has ran like a top the last year and 30,000 miles. no problems whatsoever. I did Suspension techniques springs and new KYB struts I bought off a guy for $200, got a set of GSR rims and tires for $250 from another guy. $100 for sets from a '95 CX hach, welded my own brakets to fit stock mounting points. Got the side repaired and car painted for another $650 so I have a grant total of $2,500 in my car. Been working on my own cars and my parrents cars since I was 11. that has been 30 years now. I am craving the seat in the pants kick a tourque monster can give. But don't have megabucks to spend. I drive for work and most of my milage is reimbursed by the company at 33 cents a mile. So I have to make sure 1) its reliable, and 2) is cheap to own and operate. I knew the B20 is a tight squeeze and I never thought the H22 was even doable until I saw a mount kit for sale. I thought it was physicallly to tall to fit. but at 210 hp and about 160 ft lbs of tourque in a '89 dx at about 2,100 lbs oh that is a sweet thought. if it was practical. I know a B18C5 would be sweet too. but at over $5,000 it is no more than a dream. Wife and mortgage obligations keep that from becoming a reality. After hearing abouth the downsides and stuff needed I have all but given this one up. I have thought of turbo but those costs really escalate if you want to do it right. and then to boost a ZC, it has spindly rods that won't take much ( word is about 200hp max) and then when you fix that you have to deal with the limits of the open deck design and the limits the stock cylinders impose on you (8 to 10 psi boost max for longterm reliability) or you are into megabucks getting the block sleeved. THen the survivability of the ZC syncros and trans. and the days of $150 ZC trans are limited. And parts aren't availible this side of the pacific for this grearbox. I was hoping to keep it N/A without over stressing anything. Since I need it to last foremost. Since this is a driver and not a track car.
     
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