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Low-Buck Brawler

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by Exodus, Dec 24, 2006.

  1. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    I'm planning on selling\trading my 4G Civic in the interest of obtaining *hopefully* a 90-91 black CRX Si (I've got stringent standards, lol).

    Anyway, assume the build of the engine will be in a CRX chassis, if you are wondering.

    I have basically two project engines in mind. I may build both, or only one, I have yet to choose. The assumption for this thread is that I will be building only one of the engines and I'd like that focus to be on a turbo-charged D-Series engine. I have a few goals I'd like to meet, but basically, the priority of the build is minimal expenditure (not due to low available finances, but to prove some points). Here are some of the things I have in mind:

    - SOHC VTEC engine
    - OBD1 MPFI
    - turbo-charged, intercooled
    - 3-400 WHP, at least 300 ft\lbs trq.
    - GAS MILEAGE
    - RELIABILITY, ENGINE HEALTH, LONGEVITY, EFFICIENCY
    - 8-10,000 RPMs
    - Daily Driven
    - Medium Range static compression (10-10.5:1, as low as 9-9.5:1)

    Next, I'd like to discuss different venues of the build.

    Block:
    In my experience, I've heard nothing but positive words about the D16A6 block. I know a guy in Honda's R&D department whose led on about some "secrets" behind it and have heard about and a long time ago read about a lot of reasons why it's a strong bottom end, but these things escape me, I just know now that it's capable and that's about it. So first, I'd like suggestions for resources on this engine.

    The first thing I'd like to prove day to day with this car is that boost is not an engine killer. Yes, we all know this. Yes, we know boost can kill an engine that's not TUNED properly, or set-up properly. I intend to setup some type of advanced tuning system and ignition system to run constantly for greater efficiency and higher boost possibilities with higher static compression and OE reworked parts.

    The majority of the theme of this build is "advanced", especially in the machining, calculating, designing, as well as the electronics and tuning. I believe running a "correct" setup (instead of being the guy that "needs" this or that in every conversation) with virtually infinite potential to provide adequate timing and ignition as well as adjustments will allow a budget built engine to do things previously believed to either be impossible, or just not with these old of engines. I want to see 15-20psi turbo-charged, intercooled and fine-tuned with impressive work behind it, allowing it to last long, and have real power behind it.

    There's going to be a lot of machining, radiusing, reworking and the like in this bottom end. I want it to handle revs and have minimal power loss due to inefficiency. Posting the block, using an A6 girdle regardless of block, optimizing the r\s ratio, balancing everything and a few other items of interest will allow these boost and power goals to be realized while allowing the engine to have a long service interval period. My problem is combining and compiling as many of these procedures as I can before the start of the build. Any suggestions?

    If it's not the A6 block, it'll be a Z6. The head will surely be a Y8, as will the intake and throttle body. I've been thinking of utilizing the D16A1 H-beam rods, treating them, notching the block, and probably using either Vitara pistons and reworking them, or something that will give me around 10:1. What I may do is combine those ideas, get the advantages of the Vitara piston's 300-400 HP strength, and get 10:1 compression somehow else (cutting the block deck or head and choosing the right head-gasket).

    A point of interest, I contacted Fluidampr regarding a D-Series model, and they said to check back with them in february as they've been talking it over recently. If anything comes of that, you bet there will be one under my hood.

    I'll likely use something like the ClutchMasters FX300 set and lightweight flywheel. I can afford to loose the rotating mass there in this boost application as the crank will only have been balanced, and not significantly reduced in weight like in NA applications.

    I'm heavily debating running a coil-on-plug (read: on plug, not coil packs) ignition system and heavily supported with MSD electronics. I really think a well designed ignition system with more capability than the engine needs, and has great adjustability for dyno tuning will allow higher boost, less detonation and more static compression to all be possible, allowing me to achieve my 3-400 WHP goals on mostly stock internals. This will also aid in increased functional efficiency and lengthen the service intervals of the engine, which is a major part of my goals. This would also correlate to my MPG wishes as well.

    TunerToys has a tempting specially priced kit for $1290. I chose to investigate the Full-Race situation, and the kits making in the 540WHP range were interesting. I think the price is a bit high, and I believe it's mostly all configured for B-Series adaption, so I think I'll try to mock as much of that high quality setup as I can but tailored for a D-Series engine in a CRX. Interestingly enough, I think with only slight upgrades to the intake setup (NOT using ITBs basically), I'll be able to support the maximum of what my setup can do, and only run 3-400 with the stocker.

    Naturally, the trans will be setup properly. Quaife or OBX differential. DSS axles. I may try and mock up a set of axles using the D15Bs mid-shaft setup, instead of having a full and half shaft. Even with a diff, I'd like to know it's evenly split.

    My plans for a suspension are pretty good IMO. I'll spare the entirety of the details for now, but it will certainly include the use of a Full-Race traction bar (and the half sized radiator built for use with it). I may or may not use a 4-6pt cage, I've yet to determine the needs for it.

    This is all I care to write at this time. I'll revisit this regularly for additions and conversation as it goes on. Peace guys
     
  2. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    I'd definitely rework the valve seats, match the combustion chambers finish to the pistons and maybe try and rework the stock manifold and the ports. I'd like to see where the stock manifold can get me first before committing the money.

    I'd think Crower and ENDYN would have more to do with the top end than anyone else. If not, straight up skunk2.
     
  3. TunerToys

    TunerToys Junior Member

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    Our thoughts on you SOHC build.

    Thank You!

    Here is our two cents...

    You can't go wrong with the A6 block, all of the single cam racers we know swear by them.

    If you are going to go OBD1, might as well do a Z6 head and engine harness. If you decide to go OBD0 for some reason, then go with the Y8 head, as the OBD0 distributor fits into this head with zero mods.

    That is all,

    Craig
     
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