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Ls\Vtec building help

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by drpenguin, Aug 26, 2005.

  1. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    okay no one ended up wanting my LS and the insurance money just rolled in. Its LS Vtec time. Now Im looking for 210 whp and a WHOLE LOT of torque. Now I know all about the conversion, what i need help with is the bottom end. Soo many choices and so little money ya know? Okay I have a B16a In my Rex right now. Well its going and im pulling out the motor and tranny. I already have my 1993 DA ready. I'm going to keep my Y1 tranny. Now I have been searching all night and i cant find a straight anwser for this so here goes. Will putting my PR3 pistons onto the LS rods up the comp ratio? Has anyone taken there LS out to 84mm? I was thinking of doing that over swapping the pistons. I know that would give me the torque im looking for. Any pointers is welcome.
     
  2. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    If you want 84mm you are going to have to resleeve the block. The MOST you would want to go NA on a block would be 82mm. And yes the PR3 will give you a nice comp increase. Unless you plan on spending alot of money you won't make your goal of 210 with a mild LS/Vtec build you will probably be around 180.
     
  3. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    if you want lots of torque, and not sell your soul ($$$) FI is the way to go. with that platform and a mild NA set up youll get bored fast....trust me...my rex is just sitting in the garage..and its a much lighter platform

    ..i would leave the block stock bore and put some forged slugs and rods, then make a custom FI set up and tune...... if you dont have the extra $$ for the forged units then just keep the ls pistons and a thicker head gasket, just tune the bitch.

    look at 97CTRs set up 205-139tq.....you can make that with a stock ls and a T3T4 and probably spend less
    BTW it was just an example......
    :ph34r:
    m2c
     
  4. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    Well right now im going to throw the PR3 slugs into the ls for now. Im taking the oil pump and water pump from the b16. I know i would have to sleve it to take it out to 84mm. I want to go NA. Had a Turboed LS and its just blain right now. So only 180 with the PR3 slugs huh?
     
  5. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    bore the block .020-.030 and buy the pr3s with some aftermarket cams and with tuning you could get more than 180....maybe
     
  6. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    Why bore the block so little? Does it make that much of a diff? I have the Pistons there in my B16. tuning = duh! Im trying to make a Daily driver and not a track slut.
     
  7. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Bore .02-.03 over to get the added insurance that you'll get a proper seating on the rings.

    as it has been stated, you will gain a nice bump in cr wit the pr3's. i believe its around 11.3:1 or so. dont quote me, that is with the infamously incorrect c-speed calculator.

    but, you know. just go for it. all motor w/oe parts is good for reliability. but, to make power, you need higher CR and some wicked fucin cams. check out PCT's or b16b pistons.

    thats all i got for now.
     
  8. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    pct's are b16b pistons man. And the cspeed calculator isn't that bad, just when it comes to pct's they are off.
     
  9. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    Its 11.5 i think. I was just looking at it but im alittle crunk. Why would you need a CR higher then 11.5? Wont pump gas stop working at 12-1 or higher? Okay so .20 over for ring seating. Does anyone know of a good oil cooler for a honda? Will a GSR crank brace(?) fit on the LS? Think its called a crank brace not sure. shit will the whole GSR crank go in, fit the LS rods with the PR3's and still get that CR? Prolly not but hey worth the try. Any other hints or need to knows?
     
  10. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    You can't use a gsr crank with ls rods, the rods aren't long enough. You can only interchange cranks and rods that have the same stroke. Like ITR and GSR or LS and B20. If you want to use the gsr crank brace you have to use the gsr main caps, gsr oil pickup and oil pan.
     
  11. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    You can use the GSR girdle, but you need what 97ctr said. Oil cooler, I think moroso makes one.
     
  12. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    Well I want a oil cooler. I heard there is a "clamp" tht goes between your oil filter. Anyone know where to pick one up? So the GSR girdle will fit the LS? or will it have to be on a GSR crank? Im still thinking on what to do. take it to 85mm or leave it the way it is.....
     
  13. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    Yes, the GSR girdle will fit the LS. You need the girlde, pick up, windage tray and pan. leave it the way it is. 85mm on an LS, thats huge. and even more cash.
     
  14. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    Yeah i know its goona burn a hole in the pocket but I want my Tourqe!!!! Thanks man, if you happen to have any extra GSR parts laying around you wanna get rid of hit me up
     
  15. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    I'm pretty sure there is some machining that has to be done for the dowel pins. :huh:
     
  16. infamouz

    infamouz Senior Member

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    so with te addition of all the exchange of pistons needed to be setup, what will the cost be to build a well....... not mild but better than mild ls/vtec motor. I would love to find out how much all of this costs so i can start spending on the right parts. How much would it cost if you have got the b18a1 already in your car.
     
  17. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    i spent 2k on the long block....the first time....then i switched to ls pistons .....
     
  18. drpenguin

    drpenguin Senior Member

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    well its in the works and its only running me 1500 to get it sleeved and all that
     
  19. sohcslammer

    sohcslammer Senior Member

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    I spent a little over 4 grand on my BOTTOM end and it's not even sleeved. Once you figure in oil pump, water pump, rods, pistons, bearings, bore, hone, balancing, micro-polishing, magnaflux, belts, hoses, pulleys, ect.... it adds up.

    As for the torque, displacement will have a large factor, but the cams will have the most. I have been doing a lot of cam research lately and as far as torque goes, you can't get better than the Toda spec Bs. Not as much peak power, but the tuner at Modacar and I were talking and he tunes a lot of Hondas. He pulled the skunk 2 stage 2s out of this guys 1.8 litre and put in the spec bs. He lost 4 wheel at the peak, but his torque went from 145 to 165. That's a SHITLOAD of torque for a all motor 1.8 litre. The VTEC x-over is seamless as well. The only thing that sux is the $1000 price tag..... :(
     
  20. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    Man you can find toda b's around for like 500 -700 bucks. And I have always heard that toda makes some of the torquiest cams out there. Just goes to show I guess.
     
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