Misfiring and tach acting silly

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Check your spark plugs and wires for quality, if you already have then it could be the ecu fault code reverting to a rev limiter and leaning out your fuel/ignition map. I just had a faulty spark plug wire make my crx run like it was only on three cylinders. Besides that, all I can think of is the fuel pressure... there could be a filter or pump going bad possibly? I think you can loop a wire to check the ecu code?
 
From what you've suggested my skills cover checking the spark plugs and the ecu code. I'll have to check the plugs at my next available juncture.
 
I took the distributor cap off today to check inside. The cap needs to be replaced, but more interestingly were many shaven metal bits inside the cap and on the distributor. It looked like a ball of silver glitter exploded inside. I couldn't see how to remove the rotor button (it must be different from an EF chassis) but I did check the button for play and I could easily move it parallel to the motor about an inch either way. :eek: I'm guessing that's far from normal. I'm under the impression there should be no play in it whatsoever. I'm also hoping the metal bits are a good clue as well.

Any ideas now that I've found that?

As always, thanks for the info guys.
 
My mechanic mentioned that the play in the rotor could be expected if the rotor was spring loaded.

I took of the rotor button and the black shield in between the rotor and the rest of the distributor came off behind it was a pile of shaven metal. I'm guessing some part of the inside of the distributor had been chaffing itself and tearing up the insides. My bet is the whole thing needs to be replaced..
 
I got a distributor, from a state away and after installing it, it would not spark. The ignition module (or whatever that is that runs the wire going TO the distributor works, but the car simply won't spark. I tested the two sensors just to check and they are both fine.
 
Man.....no spark and we know the old one looked suspect....makes me think the one you got is bad too. I don't know how to test a dizzy but I think you got a bad one. Was it used?
 
It was a reman. The old one was capable of starting the car, just not moving it very well at all. The new one, couldn't event make the car stumble trying to start. I've order a new one from napa this time. I'll see how that goes on Tues.
 
how did all of that go man i just went thru that same shit but now mines acting weird tach acting weird too and miss firing changed everything you did but my dizzy is brand new about a year old i replaced my timming belt about a year about with my dizzy and now its acting weird dizzy looks good so does my belt i'm puzzled
 
It was the distributor. The seal that held in the bearings inside the distributor started to come out and some of the bearings were coming out and being eaten by the rotor. There's a small bit of misfire, but I'm pretty positive it's because I haven't had the chance to set the ignition timing yet.

It was suggested to me to check for spark by laying the wires on the valve cover. The first dizzy I got was getting spark but wasn't putting any out. Cap and rotor are pretty cheap. If you didn't change them with the distributor, I'd do that.

The haynes also tells you to check the two sensors in the distributor. They should have a resistance between .65 and .85 if I remember correctly.

Good luck!
 
I've had a couple do that but the dizzy was good. Turned out to be the ECU under the seat was corroded under it's cover that one couldn't see and a wire actually was broken off but still ran (????) Forgot the color of wire.

Sorry for reading this late, I have a few.. in the abyss of my crap though.
Even some carbed ones.

E
 
Check that the engine is grounded properly. Use jumper cable to ground on the battery and the other end to the engine. That my be it. I had that same problem with a used car I bought.

SWT
 
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