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Motor Setup For Turbo

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by possessed imports, May 19, 2003.

which one is best 4 turbo

  1. ls/vtec

    100.0%
  2. crv/tec

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  3. gsr

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. 0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. possessed imports

    possessed imports Banned

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    im looking to do a lsvtec turbo but before i start i just want to know which is better?

    y may post your opinions
     
  2. stretch arm strong integ

    stretch arm strong integ Junior Member

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    ls/vtec all the way . i would build the ls block first. B) ;)

    what do everyone else think
     
  3. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    If you have the ls engine already then build it for boost. The bottome end parts should work with either a VTEC or non VTEC head so can add the head at your own disgression.

    If you don't then go for a GSR. The things is building an LSVTEC for boost if you don't have the LS block already will cost as much as building a GSR for boost.
     
  4. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    ls/vtec--is a gsr with a b16 head and 89mm crank
    cr/vtec--sleeves dont like much boost
    gsr-- already built ls/vtec with better r/s ratio
    b16--too small
     
  5. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    An LSVTEC is not a GSR with a B16 head and 89mm crank, the engines are very different.

    Would you leave the R/S ratio alone. People keep throwing it around to sound like they know something. The difference between 1.54:1 and 1.58:1 is not signifcant unless you are trying to spin 10K+ RPM.
     
  6. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    :withstupid:
    if you want to talk about something that might actually effect something talk about the lack of oil squirters on the LS block
     
  7. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    I would still choose the B20/VTEC. The sleeve strength is just as good as the LS... if you're talking about 14 vs 16 psi, then maybe the LS will hold better because it's thicker, but keep in mind that the manufacturing process (and the material) in the B20 sleeve is different, so it is just as strong.

    If you're boosting to the point where you'll be making the B20 sleeve fail, you need to resleeve anyway, whether or not you're using the B20 block. Boost pressures and tuning that will make a stock B20 fail will kill a B18 also.

    If you're running on the street and you're not seeing extreme levels of boost, then just go with the largest displacement base. You'll have more power to start with, and even more power under boost. Just build the engine right, and you'll be fine.
     
  8. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    Which are also not really necessary even with Honda pistons/rods if you run NA. I think that forged pistons and good rods wouldn't need them even under boost.
     
  9. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    No, you don't. Forged pistons/rods make the engine weather boost a lot better, even without oil squirters- but the squirters are still nice to have.
     
  10. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    dimensionally they are the same. the ls may lack some "accessories", but thats it.

    sometimes you may have to rev past 10k to exploit the full potential of the engine, or you might miss a shift; put it in a lower gear and overrev it.

    if you are going for high boost i would go for the resleeved gsr, but if you are using low boost i would use the b20/vtec. the gsr block already has the vtec which saves some time and hassle.
     
  11. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    1. This is not the case unless you are running full race NA cams (as in bigger than the TODA spec C or even the Skunk2 Stage 3). Running a turbo you shouldn't need to rev past 10K. With a properly built system, you will see plenty of power below 10K.
    2. What engine driven on the street regularly is going to rev past 10K? Even if your internals can handle the stress this is going to wear the engine out much faster than limiting yourself to 8 or 9K.
    3. With the insignificant difference in RS ratio between B18A/B and B18C how much higher to do you figure you can rev the B18C than the B18A/B, not much.


    So what? If you miss a shift it will kill a GSR engine just as quick. My advice is learn how to use a shifter properly.
     
  12. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    someone needs to post a link to the rsx 5th to 2nd sown shift :)
     
  13. kyleirwin

    kyleirwin Retired OG

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  14. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    nice legs Red White and Blue..........lol



    Milan
     
  15. possessed imports

    possessed imports Banned

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    so what should i do? i already have a ls block should i just bluild the ls/vtec for turbo or (if i can) trade my ls block for a gsr block and build that block and put and head on it? :eek: B) :rolleyes:
     
  16. R.E.Developement

    R.E.Developement Import King of Irvington

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  17. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    if you arleady have an LS, i say boost it as is.
    sleeve the bottom end, build it up, etc etc... boost it up.

    if and when you are unhappy, consider doing the vtec head swap.
     
  18. liquid00meth

    liquid00meth Senior Member

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    why would you go through the trouble of making the engines vtec before turbo? Doesn nobody understand that vtec doesn't really matter in a turbo engine?



    ls/t all the way
     
  19. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    im guessin mileage for a street car. turbo doesnt usually kick in till after the vtec switchover, so why not use low profile cams for regular driving.
     
  20. Ryan C

    Ryan C Junior Member

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    heres my $.02

    oil squirters are over rated...they add un-needed weight to the piston as it rotates...engines with suirters hardly run cooler than a engine without...if you wanna run that little bit cooler richen the mixture....

    and if you have a LS block already, BUILD IT.
    get a really good flowing head like a B16 or Ported LS and boost the shit out of it...i garuntee you like that :D
     
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