my new system

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

formby

formby

learning in progress
this guy at work had a new 10in sub-and a 10' ported bass tube box

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5765199364&rd=1

with a 500w volfenhag amp for $80

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

i know its not the best, but i wanted some bass and he has a 12' with a 700w amp and it bumps clean....my question is more toward the installation...

i was thinking or runing a wire from one voice coil to the other and then bridging the cable at the amp....i'm also getting a .5 farad cap.... is this the best way?
i know nothing about ohms or frequency...i was also wondering how i could secure the bass tube down in the rex?
 
its dual 4 ohm coils so parallel youd be wired at 2 ohms and in a series youd be wired at 8 ohms

the amp is 2ohm stable so you wanna bridge it and wire it to your voice coils in parallel

now its 500 max at 2 ohms and i dunno what voltage its rated at. your prolly looking at only 200 watts rms which is half of what your subs rated at.

i dunno about there amps but they make decent subs, that system should work, but dont expect alot of bass from it.

and imo look up the specs from the manufacture and have a ported box built to spec, it will end up sounding alot better then just a generic ported box.
 
Its my opinion that sub + amp is not a good match. You are underpowering the sub, which is the second worst thing you can to a sub. The first being sending it a bad signal. The sub is looking for 400watts RMS and the amp only puts out 250watts RMS. (in a perfect lab test) I would look for a different amp or sub. As far as wiring goes here are you're options.

How to Wire Dual Voice Coil 4ohm Sub
 
thanks....i'm going to install it and see.... if i dont like ill just buy a kenwood amp or something...

what can i use to hold the tube down?
 
Ok wait a sec, you have a dual 4 ohm sub. So if you wire it parallel it's gonna be a 2ohm sub and then if you bridge the amp it's gonna be 1 ohm. So that won't work. Like someone else said, the amp/sub isn't a good combo. You could wire the sub in series and get it to 8ohms then bridge the amp and it will be 4 ohms but then you won't be getting as much power as you would like from the amp. However this is how you're gonna have to do it because if you wire the sub parallel and then bridge it your amp is gonna overheat/blow or youre gonna start popping fuses. So get a 1ohm stable amp, a bigger amp, or get another sub so you have more wiring options but then you'll have the same prob of the amp not being powerful enough. No win situation.... <_<
 
Originally posted by projectxspeed@Apr 15 2005, 03:38 PM
Its my opinion that sub + amp is not a good match. You are underpowering the sub, which is the second worst thing you can to a sub. The first being sending it a bad signal. The sub is looking for 400watts RMS and the amp only puts out 250watts RMS. (in a perfect lab test) I would look for a different amp or sub. As far as wiring goes here are you're options.
Click to expand...



'Underpowering' a sub is b.s. I'm kinda sick of hearing this crap, unless you have proof (aka not: "my friends' buddy did it and blew up his car") stop spreading these myths.
 
Originally posted by TommyTheCat+Apr 17 2005, 10:18 PM-->
TommyTheCat @ Apr 17 2005 said:
projectxspeed
Click to expand...
TommyTheCat @ Apr 17 2005 said:
@Apr 15 2005, 03:38 PM
Its my opinion that sub + amp is not a good match.  You are underpowering the sub, which is the second worst thing you can to a sub.  The first being sending it a bad signal.  The sub is looking for 400watts RMS and the amp only puts out 250watts RMS.  (in a perfect lab test)  I would look for a different amp or sub.  As far as wiring goes here are you're options.
Click to expand...



'Underpowering' a sub is b.s. I'm kinda sick of hearing this crap, unless you have proof (aka not: "my friends' buddy did it and blew up his car") stop spreading these myths.
[post=488144]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...



I totally agree. It's way fucking better to overpower a sub than it is to underpower it. If you underpower you're gonna have the sub clipping like fucking crazy. When a sub blows I would say that 99% of the time it's because it was clipping. All you guys who claim ya blew a sub by overpowering it with a 10k watt roadgear amp (and you know who you are) you probably blew it by turning it up too loud and your piece of shit amp was only putting out 150watts and you had the sub distorted as fuck. So yeah, overpowering in my opinion is a myth, it's not possible.
 
umm your backwards

underpowering your sub does jack shit.
overpowering or setting your gain too high puts you in clipping.
 
ok.... think whatever ya want. We'll have to agree to disagree then.
 
Originally posted by E-dogg@Apr 20 2005, 10:55 PM
If you underpower you're gonna have the sub clipping like fucking crazy. When a sub blows I would say that 99% of the time it's because it was clipping. All you guys who claim ya blew a sub by overpowering it with a 10k watt roadgear amp (and you know who you are) you probably blew it by turning it up too loud and your piece of shit amp was only putting out 150watts and you had the sub distorted as fuck. So yeah, overpowering in my opinion is a myth, it's not possible.
[post=489444]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...

Overpowering is not a myth. If i strap four 1000W amps in pairs and attach them to a dvc sony sub that handles '500W', it is dead. I just sent it 4000w or even less w/o clipping and it cannot dissipate the heat.

Underpowering is the myth that sending less power than is "required"(which it is actually not, it is rated for that maximum power. It may take more, but not all day) will FORCE you into overdriving the amp into clipping. If I put a 200W amp on a 500w sub, it will not clip if I have a brain. You need to match the gains with your input voltage so when you turn it up, you are only reaching 200w. The sub has nothing to do with you clipping the amp (unless you wire too low of a load, of course)

And "agree to disagree"? I guess you disagree with the laws of nature then.
 
Originally posted by micah@Apr 21 2005, 06:06 PM
like i said, read chapter 29 ;)
[post=489742]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...



Just saw your post here about chapter 29. Although I am not inclined to believe just anything I read on the internet and would prefer to depend on the information I received from oh.... lets say Rockford, Sony, Alpine representatives that I had to listen to for 8hrs a day for 6weeks, lets say I did pay attention to this guy. It seems to me you read his first line and not the rest of the chapter. So for your sake I'll go ahead and paste it on here in case you missed it....


[ When a speaker is driven with lots of clean power, the cone moves a great deal (in proportion to the output voltage from the amplifier). For speakers with vented pole pieces (or other types of venting), this movement forces a lot of air to flow in the magnetic gap (area where the voice coil rides). When the woofer moves out of the basket, the chamber that's under the dust cap and around the voice coil expands (increases in volume) which pulls cool air into the magnetic gap. When the woofer moves the other direction, the chamber size is reduced and the hot air is forced out of the vent in the pole piece. This air flow cools the voice coil. If a relatively low powered amplifier is driven into clipping (to a full square wave for a lot of people), a relatively large portion of the time, the voltage delivered to the voice coil no longer resembles a sine wave as it would with an unclipped signal. While the amplifier's output is clipped, the voice coil is not being motivated to move as far as it should for the power that's being delivered to it and therefore is likely not being cooled sufficiently ]

It's funny how he referred to the same thing I said, clipping with a weak amp huh???
 
Originally posted by E-dogg@Apr 20 2005, 10:55 PM
If you underpower you're gonna have the sub clipping like fucking crazy.
[post=489444]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...



i misunderstood you, i thought you meant just by having a low power amp that it would make your sub clip.

the only reason it would clip is if you had it set wrong, like if you had your gain at max with bass boost at max.

if you have a sub rated at 500 watts rms and you hook a 200 watt rms amp to it. then you set the amp using a dmm and a 50 hz sine wave (like you should set any amp hooked to a sub). then the sub will NEVER clip and it will NEVER blow.
all your doing is pushing it at half its power so its output wont be at its full potential.



clipping will blow your sub no matter if its 5 watts or 5000 watts. its not the wattage its the fact that your clipping.

just having your sub underpowered will NOT blow it.
 
Second for Micah. Unerpowering doesnt hurt anything, overpowering is when you click, and blow your sub. the only thing underpowering does is not make it as loud, or hit as deep as possible.

sorry e-dogg, but micah is right on this one.
 
Yeah I think maybe I was misunderstood as Micah pointed out. I did not mean that underpowering automatically equals blown sub. What I meant was that clipping is more likely to occur with an underpowered sub were the user to try and crank it up. Anyway, I stand by what I said.

As fo overpowering a sub and having it click and blow (I think thats how smonkeyboy put it) I have yet to see this happen. Perhaps I need to deal with lower quality subs or something.... or maybe find an amp the produces 1.21 giggawatts.
 
i blew the amp....messing with the fuse....anyway i bought this amp

2redamp.jpg


2 x 400 w RMS power X-over 50-300 hz
Level adjustment Gold plated connectors
Variable 12 db bass boost 2 Ohm stable in stereo mode
Dead silent turn-on/off circuitry Remote turn-on/turn-off circuitry
24 db crossover hp/flat/LP High Pass/flat/low pass switch


is this better?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top