Alright, so I am going to build an N/A LS motor. No LS/Vtec, no turbos, no changing my mind. So, with that in mind, does anyone have some good advice on how to go about doing this? Also, any limitations I would have from doing this ( I think I read somewhere that LS motors arent supposed to rev too much over 7K RPM/ things like that) I have some of my own ideas but I would just like some imput from others. Let me know your thoughts.
N/A LS Motor
- Thread starter korey
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dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
Well, I hope you've got a buttload of money to drop into this. Honda n/a engines without VTEC are kinda worthless...
The thing about LS engines not revving over 7k is BS. As long as you build the head to handle it, the R/S ratio isn't going to mean a thing.
The thing about LS engines not revving over 7k is BS. As long as you build the head to handle it, the R/S ratio isn't going to mean a thing.
brian11to1
Senior Member
read the post about 1/8 miles on what to do. LS motors are good and NA non-vtec motors are worthless... its what im doing except im goin LSVTEC... it will be a built 11:1 comp. LS ALL motor for awhile.
brian11to1
Senior Member
Are not WORTHLESS... sorry. I love NA non-VTEC. but just keep in mind VTEC will always prevail.
dohcvtec_accord
WRX Sellout
Yeah, it's not "worthless", but you're wasting your time and money on a non-VTEC engine. VTEC engines are very powerful for n/a applications, why completely rule out VTEC technology?
K2e2vin
Senior Member
The r/s ratio will mean a thing, if you use stock rods. You should get some new rods first before thinking about revving it high.
VTEC only creates a broader powerband. A built LS and VTEC motor can make as much peak power, but for drag racing you spend most of your time in the upper rpm range. So drag racing wise, as long as you get a good launch and new final drive and/or first gear, the LS should be able to stick with the VTEC. but in autoX, the VTEC will beat the LS.
If you wanna build a ls all-motor setup, kick ass. no one does it because no one has respect for it. they can be fast and i know i like them. spendmoney on things like a JG fully biult head and lightend crank, rods, really high comp pistons etc. get power any way you can and make sure your flowing awesome ie. exhaust intake header and put a nice clutch and flywheel with a short ass gear....you can, if you really want to, get like a gsr tranny and put a 4.80 final drive in which would be murder on gas but myself am not worried about that.....theres a few of my suggestions and i say go for it!! 
All I got to say to Non-vtec haters is this:
If you have never built one, then how do you know........Dude just read this post I did recently on my LS.
https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26889
If you have never built one, then how do you know........Dude just read this post I did recently on my LS.
https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26889
bills hatch had a built NA non-VTEC LS engine in it
he used crower 403 cams (more agressive than the ITR or CTRs high lobes)
JDM B16 pistons (11.#:1 compression)
and a PnP'd LS head
total cost was less than $2k i believe
that car SPANKED civics with B16s in them and kept up VERY well with my ITR converted sol
this was with the stock LS ECU, the stock LS IM, the stock LS header, the Stock LS tranny, shitty short intake, and a semi ghetto exhaust..... change those parts out and youll have a non-VTEC ITR killer for a fraction of the cost
do not believe anyone who says the LS engine is crap for NA
he used crower 403 cams (more agressive than the ITR or CTRs high lobes)
JDM B16 pistons (11.#:1 compression)
and a PnP'd LS head
total cost was less than $2k i believe
that car SPANKED civics with B16s in them and kept up VERY well with my ITR converted sol
this was with the stock LS ECU, the stock LS IM, the stock LS header, the Stock LS tranny, shitty short intake, and a semi ghetto exhaust..... change those parts out and youll have a non-VTEC ITR killer for a fraction of the cost
do not believe anyone who says the LS engine is crap for NA
in the long run you are going to pay more for an na ls build you can use a crazy cam in it but it also does wonders to the gas gauge. I personally thinkif the technology is there then use it. If you spend a little bit more in the begining get the b16 head, then do all that work to it, you'll be faster than if you did it to an ls. i dunno about everyone else on here but i like to get my worth. if i had it to do over like 20 more times, i'd drop an h22 everytime n/a or turbo, they flat out fuckin rip in civics and tegs and they don't cost a ridiculous amount like the type r. but do what floats your boat, i'll give props to an na ls if it turns good times
i am doing the same thing, for one to be different i think part of the idea of building your car is to be different, and not to many people have this set-up, this is a nice cost effective way to have a quick car, in the long run VTEC will beat it, but if you put together a nice set-up you will have a quick car, go to honda-tech and there are tons of people runing 12's all day with this motor, just get the compression up a bit, do some minor block work( balancing ect.....) get a nice flowing head( p&p), build the head, non-vtec cams are like 400 bucks! and tune, and the motors are alot cheaper than vtec motors, i used toi be strictley a vtec guy but after some research i have decided to go with this motor, and build an all motor non-VTEC beast!
just my 2 cents
just my 2 cents
sohcslammer
Senior Member
I couldn't agree with E_Sol more. LS/VTEC is kinda worthless IMO. For the cost of doing it the right way it is anyway. My buddy with a 2001 LS is building his motor the same way.
CTR pistons
Crower 403's
PnP head
The only problem is the LS rods. They are not MEANT to go over 7K. I personally know someone that bangs them to 9.5 all the time and they hold, but that doesn't mean that you should. If you try to put the B16 rods in the LS then you have to notch the block so they fit. I just wouldn't take them over 8k if you can help it.
CTR pistons
Crower 403's
PnP head
The only problem is the LS rods. They are not MEANT to go over 7K. I personally know someone that bangs them to 9.5 all the time and they hold, but that doesn't mean that you should. If you try to put the B16 rods in the LS then you have to notch the block so they fit. I just wouldn't take them over 8k if you can help it.
lsvtec
GNU/Linux Evangelist
Where did he say it was worthless. It isn't. If you do it the "right way" the cost will be comprable to a swap and you have a fresher engine.
It is stupid to use the B16 rods on the LS crank in the LS block. They are not the same length, you would lose a bunch of compression running B16 rods and your geometry would be "worse" than with the LS rods.
sohcslammer
Senior Member
Hey now. My opinion is my opinion. I have seen a bunch of great LS/VTEC's before, yours being one of them. In My Opinion - building an LS motor is cheaper, easier, and just as reliable if not more so. I think LS/VTEC's are very tempermental and that the cost of building and maintaining one is more that I care to spend. A GSR swap will usually be cheaper and last longer. USUALLY.
As far as the B16 rods, that is just what I had heard. I was under the impression that those were the rods you would want to use in a high reving motor. But that the block would have to be notched. Sorry, I must have goten some bad info. Sue me.
sleepercivic
Senior Member
I believe part of the reason they say not to rev past 7k or whatever is because of the lack of oil squirters in the LS block..........
Quite a few guys who run professionally on the drag strip actually remove the oil squirters to reduce windage loss in the engine, and they rev well past 7k.